The world's roughest backhoe is leaking more hydrauic fluid than I can afford. The spindle controls for the bucket and dipper arm are pumping it out of the top. I'd like advise on the easiest fix possible. I have a '68 Dodge two ton truck with about a 16 ft. boom. I'm wondering if I can release the top two pins on the backhoe and let it ease backward toward the ground. That is after I have stretched the boom and bucket straight out behind the tractor. Would it just pivot on the swing cylinders if they were in a neutral position and end up in about a 45 degree angle? Then, can I get easier access to the top and bottom of the controls? Then, would you all advise buying the O-rings from the dealer or on-line? Seems to me that about 8 O-rings per control ought to do it. I hate to pay over $300. for less than 30 O-rings. Thanks for your wisdom and input. Packratc
Find a local supplier I am not sure by your description of where the oil is leaking. Are you talking about the valves, the pressure relief valve on the BH boom, or where. I suggest you disassemble and video tape it while you do it. I would also mark the 0-rings while doing it. Of course this means you have a memory like mine. If you are near an urban area, you can find a local supplier for o-rings - especially if you have them in hand to size them correctly. They will be cheaper that way.
Thanks, Joe, for your reply. They are leaking out of the top of valves. When you activate any part of the boom, except the swing cylinders, hydraulic fluid comes out of the top of the particular valve that you activated by pulling the lever. I have just ordered from Coleman Equipment the O-rings by part numbers that are listed in the Case repair manual. It'll take a week to get them. I think I understood that they have to order them and get them there to Kansas and then a few days to me in Tennnessee. The other part of my question has to do with the best way to tackle this beast. Shall I take the entire hoe off of the tractor? Can I take out the two big pins in the top and lean it backwards with the boom laid out on the ground? Shall I leave the hoe on the tractor and take the hoses off from the back and then work on the valves from the seat side? (Removing the seat would help this a lot.) With my winch truck I think I can handle it pretty well. I bought the truck from a friend of mine that closed out his junk yard. He used to stack cars with it and turn them over to access rearends, crossmembers, etc. It'll probably pick up seven to eight thousand pounds. In taking these hoses off, is this where folks talk about the need for Case tools or crows feet to get the hoses loose? Thanks for any more words of wisdom or advise to keep me from screwing up and/or getting hurt. Maybe I can get a picture of the old truck gettin-ahold of the old hoe. Packratc
On my 580 CK, you can pull the seat out and just have the "female" tube left - that gives me a lot of space to get at the valves. I have had to disconnect hoses from the valves when working on the swing cylinders. I am guessing you can do the work you need to do without detaching the boom - that is a lot more work you might not need to do. I have tried different sizes of crowfoot wrenches and have yet to find one that is thin enough to get in between the hoses. I manage to remove the hoses by working with a normal open wrench at an angle. My suggestion is to consider removing all of the hoses, and fitting new o-rings to all the valves and the hose ends. I figure that if one is going then the rest are going to go soon. If you remove the hoses, mark them. Guess why I keep saying that. I have a big fat manual that is helpful in diagramming the valves but it is light on how to do it. The only nice thing is that it is simple technology. I am no expert on this by the way - there was a guy named Phil out of Ontario who really knew his stuff. It appears he has not returned to the forum in quite some time. I hope this helps.
Hi its eaiser to seperate the hoe from the tractor i had to do that with mine it was leaking fom the rear plugs but to get at it there is not much room. Thumpalong
Looks like I've got to renew this thread from last year. With all my troubles with the world's roughest backhoe, I've got the hoe off on the ground and need to stop leaks on at least two spindle controls. As I said before they are leaking out of the top where the control leavers attach. I removed the cotter key & pin and tried to pull up on the spindle, hoping it would come out & I'd replace the seals and get on with it. But, Oh No! When you pull up on the spindle it goes back down when you release it. It won't come up but so far. Do I have to start at the bottom of the same control? Am I gonna' have to pull the whole contol block? Please give me some hints. Is there something on this in the sticky? For some reason I can't even find the sticky now, even though I've been there before. Thanks for your continued support. Packratc
I rblt the valve bank on my C. It has a 35 b/h, so there may be some differences. I removed the whole assy so I could work on it on the bench (See The C I'm working on). The spools must come out through the bottom. unscrew the aluminum cover and you'll find the centering spring. The rest is pretty obvious. do them one at a time, so the same components go back into the same valve. I disassembled them and put them in marked sandwich bags to control them. Immediately behind each spool valve is a set of load check vavles, 2 for each spool. there is an allen head adjustment on each one of them. If you disassemble those sections, don't move that adjustment, and don't mix them up. If you do, you'll have to readjust them, and that gets extremely expensive and very complicated and time consuming. If I can be of any further help, let me know.
Hi Packratc, Is this what your valve looks like? I can't help much with how to get at the valve to repair it since I don't have a 580. But I am sure that one of the O rings in it is a special type. It is not a typical hardware store variety replacement. It has a metal ring attached to it. As far as I know (which isn't much) They are only available from Case. A couple of my controls were hemorrhaging oil out the top and I decided to reseal the entire bank of valves. For once I made the right decision because someone earlier had replaced three of those metal backed O rings with what I call the hardware store kind. That was the cause of about semi load of oil to leak out of them.
I referred you to the wrong thread. Try 580C load bank refurb.
I have the same problem on my 580B. I have no idea how to work on it at this point. I gather it's easier to work on if you remove the backhoe but then it sounds like that may not be needed.
Deltl1ks, I'm in the middle of the shuttle/torque converter fix being discussed in another thread. I've decided since I have a million parts scattered all over, to put the tractor back together before I go into the spindles. I'll probably remove the entire bank controls when I get to it. But, I do remember reading at least one thread on here that someone worked on the spindle controls without diamantling the hoe and or removing the bank of controls. I also remember someone stating that there was more working room from the rear of the hoe on the B than the CK. I really have no advice to give you but I can tell you that taking the hoe off was easier than I thought. It would be best if your stabilizer cylinders are in good condition & can hold it up for you until you get it stationary & safe. There's a lot of cumbersome weight there that looks like it can go anywhere at any time. Be careful & good luck! Packratc
Thanks packratc. I'm looking for that thread you mentioned but so far I have not found it. Anyways, the stabilizer cylinder (left side) needs to be repacked/replaced. I have fuild leaking there too. When it rains it poors. I don't know maybe I should just offer it for sale.
Sorry I can't help you any more than what my memory gives up. I do remember that they said they took the seat mounting plate off and it helped them with getting to the spindles. I just built my right stabilizer cylinder. Not a big deal. Got the parts at case. The mechanic in the shop at the dealer said that all CK's had two piece pistons. The B's might be mixed between one and two piece cylinders. I took my cylinders to the dealer so I knew I would get the right kit. I think they area about $23. Don't sell your hoe. Stay with it and we'll all go broke together. Good Luck! Packratc
I am also looking at this project, rebuilding the valve bank. Mine seems to be leaking not at the valve control but, at the back of the control where it looks like a big nut back there. I will take a pic today and see if you guys can help me with properly describing it and giving tips and tricks on the job. I am hoping that it can be done without removing the hoe. Is this what could be causing the (Ghost Controls) ? It seems as the swing wants to do its own thing, when working the boom it wants to go one way or the other without touching the pedals at all, as if the tractor was on an unlevel groud and gravity has its way with the old girl. 73' case 580B CK by the way I'll get to that pic now
"ghosting" will always be caused by leakage at the load check valves.
Go for it Mikey, I'll be following along. Mine has to be gone through before it goes back on the hoe. Packratc
I need to soon, I'm thinking someone on here said his had more power after doing so.