My case manual does not show the wiring diagram for a 580CK with an Alternator.. does anyone know the wire colors? I'm rewiring someone elses mess. Picture included
The alt is a pre 73 GM with a external regulator. The reg is a aftermarket unit as the OE GM stuff was mechanical, much larger and never mounted to the alt. From what I see, the top alt wire is charging to the bat. Red wire from harness to reg is ignition on ( this wakes up the regulator and tells it to start charging ) 2 wires in the plug. One is to energize the field, I think the other is stator, would need to look at a diagram. In any event they only need to go to the regulator. The bottom alt wire is ground. Nothing special here, just a convenient place to mount the add on regulator. The loose wire in the harness is likely battery sense or would have gone to the alt plug if the add on reg was not added. I'd also look for a 4 wide plug somewhere on the firewall, a OE GM reg would likely have been used from factory.
580ck wire mess.... Thank you.. I will look for a plug.. I have a bunch of burned wires under the fuel tank and I really don't want to burn anything else up. checck the picture... Thats why I really need a wire diagram to replace this mess. Agan thanks for your help.
BeanV, Here are the schematics off CNH for a CK serial # 8656686 or later originally equipped with an alternator. If mine I would replace the alternator with the newer GM style, requiring only one (always live) lead from the starter solenoid, and one 'sensing' lead to the ignition switch 'on' terminal. These later GM alternators have worked for me, without the sensing wire going through a resistance like the alternator bulb in the dash, on it's way to the switch. However it's nice to have that bulb(#2) working. There is a circuit breaker to protect the system and these often fry up. It's mounted to the engine block above the starter and still available from Case. Phil
Phil, is ther a trick to getting the dash off? I have taken the bolts out but it just will not move. I don't want to tear everythin up before I get to see what it look likes. I'm going to go buy the new still (one wire alternator).. After I run the wire from the alt to the starter Syn. Do I run another wire to the ign switch to the alt? I would like to put an alt guage in the dash if possible... Again thank you for your help
Depends on the alternator you purchase. Delco makes one that only requires wire from battery terminal on alternator to battery terminal on starter, that's what's commonly called a "one wire Delco". Other Delco alternators use that same wire, but require an additional wire from ignition switch to terminal I on the alternator to excite it. As for alternator gauge, if you have room on the dash for gauge, all you need is a Voltmeter connected to the ignition terminal of ignition switch and the other terminal of Voltmeter connected to ground.
If you do decide to stay with the alt that requires a resistor, don't try to wire around that resistor - that's the way my '74 580B was when I got it, and why it wasn't charging - that sense wire provides just enough power to the field coil to get it going, after which it's self-powered (through a separate internal diode). Take out the resistance and you risk taking out the regulator. Also, if by "alt gauge" you mean the light that goes out when the charging system is working, you can do that easily with a 12 bulb across the resistor - my tractor didn't come with such a light (at least, there wasn't one when I got it), but I wired a panel indicator across the resistor and it works fine. It works because the ign switch provides the initial excitation for the field coil (see above), which puts around 8V across the resistor. Then when the alt starts making power, it self excites the field coil, raising the voltage on the resistor so that it has 12V on both ends - the light then has no voltage across it and goes out. One caveat - my alt is different from yours (I believe mine is stock??) - it has a two wire plug and an internal regulator, so it may not work exactly the same way. The wiring can be a challenge. I disconnected everything, labeling as I went, then wrung out all the wires with a meter before reconnecting everything one circuit at a time. You can either try to clean up the connectors on the ends or run new wires - I ended up doing some of both. The spade connectors are particularly bad about not making good connections - it's worth replacing them if you aren't sure. Tedious to be sure, but it's really nice to flip a switch and have something happen! One last thought - don't be tempted to wire around the fuses - you want to make sure that something cheap and easily replaceable goes if (when??) there's a short, rather than burning up your tractor.
Alternate solution(Pun intended!) I just cut the resistor out that's above the Air intake heater solenoid and butt connector the ends together. Then got a one wire alternator. Hook the Orange wire (I believe) to the back of the alternator. This seemed to be the easiest solution with the least amount of electrical trouble repeats. Any starter/alternator shop should be able to hook you up and tell you how to wire it. I use Torodyne rebuilders in Rushland, PA 215-598-3105. Give them a call and they'll ship direct to you. Besides the 6 bolts around the perimeter the anti vandal triangle shaped thingy also holds the dash on with two bolts in the center.