Ah, Gee, what a poor design. OK, I have a 580 D where the Forum helped me replace both seals in the right brake, I was able to get one old seal out and replace it, and then add additional seal on the inner shaft but it would not go in deep enough and of course putting the whole thing back together, the brakes are leaking oil again. I suspect the bearings may be worn???? how can I tell??? WHen installing the larger seal, I could see at the top of the shaft what looked like a gap on the shaft, meaning the shaft was laying down on the bearings??? could this be true??? Ok now I have it all back together, and now the left break locks up, when you press the brakes it locks the tires until you change the direction and then the tire releases and locks up when you hit the breaks again, so is the brake cylinder piston locking in the brake cylinder, or is there something else? Has anyone had this problem??? The left brake works fine, except it locks????? Now can you get the brake cylinder assembly off the left brake without dropping the transaxel??????? Running without brakes Don! Santa Cruz, Ca
With the brake cover off, if you grab the side gear & it has any end float, you need to address the problem. Whether it is worn bearings or simply needs the preload adjusted. Your locking up issue, is the balls running off their ramps in the actuator. Either you need new discs or the housings are worn, allowing the actuators to expand too far. TIP - Always a good idea to deglaze the steel components with some course emery tape when these things are apart.
We did many 2 seal installs on the older transaxles on the diff lock shafts till Case changed the seal design to one with a exposed sealing surface that stuck out past the seal body, only one seal was ever used in the D series to my knowledge, The new design was much better. If you have end play issues in the diff shaft find out why and remember the shimming must be done with some knowledge as the ring to pinion clearance is set up by the shimming process, the correct way is with a dial indicator on a ring tooth to check backlash. Any guessing can cost thousands of dollars parts and labor to repair. It's easier to drop the brakes off to change the slaves than to fiddle with them in place, it's just not that hard to drop a brake housing. Mel.
The Cross Shaft If I remember right, I did feel some play in the cross shaft that did not seem right, So to address this problem will have to drop the Transaxel, there is no room to get the brake housing off in place, Ah the Joys of owning a Super D????? Thank You for the information, I will study the manual for figuring the shim adjustment??? Don Santa Cruz
I tried to drop the brake housing off, but was not able to get the housing past the frame without dropping the Transaxel, this is a Super D model with Disc Brakes.
Are they leaking both sides or just the right? If just the right side, you may need to extract the diff lock seals & have another go ...? Maybe you damaged the seals during install? TIP - I usually wrap the splines & the step to the seal area during install, with some duct tape. Those seals are easy to damage.....
not leaking bad, but leaking, right side only You were a big help before, telling me I could change the seals without dropping the transaxel, I tried to follow your suggestion and drilled the larger seal out and tried to pull her with sheet metal screws, but she was tight, so ended up making a tool to pull her out. THe new seal went right in but I detected a not so tight seal at the top of the spline???? I have only 2400 hours on the transaxel, could the bearings be worn out this soon??? The second seal, inside the cross shaft, I was told I could just back her up with another seal without removing, so I make a tool to press her in, but she would not go too far. I could see the end of the splines right at the seal lip, didn't look like it would seal to me, and would no go in any further, not a happy installation. So, put it all together and the seal leaked getting the new disc brakes soaked in oil. All this is on the right side, the left side does not leak, but locks up when you hit the brakes, and you have to reverse the shuttle to get the brakes to release. So, its back in the shop to pull her apart. Thank you for the information about putting duck tape on the splines, a good tip. Another thing: There is no drain hole in the bottom of the brake housing if the seals were to leak the brake housing can fill up with gear oil???? seems like you need a drain hole??? When I took the original brakes out there was an oily muck filling the bottom third of the brake housing, not a good design??? Don Santa Cruz
Hopefully when you get it apart again, it will be obvious which seal is the culprit. As to the drain hole ... well the engineers probably thought that it was designed to be run dry, any drain hole may allow the ingress of water, depending on how & where the machine would be used. :beatsme If they have had water in them & then are parked up for some time, they do rust up & also give trouble. Re the bearings - at those hours, if genuine, you would not expect the bearings to be worn. But like I said earlier, if they were worn, there would be movement/endfloat in the side gears.
Purchased a 580D and a SERVICE MANUEL on CD ( I can Make Copies ) BLEEDING BRAKES on 580D is """""" DIFFERENT """" to Bleed the BRAKES on the 580D you need a Pressure Fluid Tank Connected to the Master Cylinder then under the Seat on each side you have what some call a Slave unit, on top of the Slave unit you have a Wheel Cylinder , each time you push the Brakes a little Rod Works up and down causing Brake Pads to Expand, These can get Wore and Allow Air to Build up and Lock Brakes , Same with Worn Master Cylinder that has a """BLEEDER""" let the Fluid Flow until it has no Air Bubles , Just like Bleeding Brakes on Vehicles PRESSURE FLUID TANK can anyone tell me what I can use for this ???? Found Parts for 25% of what Case Wonts at www.epsstore.com
New one for me BRO. All you need to do, is pump the pedal - like any other brake system.
Airman Thank you, I will try that , However I do have a SERVICE MANUEL that says Connect the PRESSURE FLUID TANK, I guess you can say the """FOOT WILL be the PRESSURE TANK"""" LOL Thank you again , I will Let you know how it works
Iam a ROOKIE, However I would try BLEEDING the BRAKE , their is a Bleeder on the top of each Slave Unit on each side under the seat
If the master and slave cylinders are in good condition a normal bleeding procedure can be followed, many time the brakes can be pumped up without even opening the bleeder, once the slave cylinder starts to work it forces the air back the line. If the master cylinder pushrod is properly adjusted and cylinder in good shape there is no way that pressure can build up in the slave as the fluid is free to return to the master. If you are working alone you learn these tricks after a half century of doing it. You may even be able to fill the cylinders and loosen the bleeder and go get a cup of coffee and come back to fluid drippin on the floor.
Hello all, I recently purchased a Case 580D Construction King (Non-turbo). The brakes were not in the best of shape, so I decided to dismantle them for inspection. The left side is oil free but very stiff, and the right side is saturated with black tarry oil/grease. Since the mechanisms are on the sides of the transaxle, dismantling them really wasn't too bad; however, I did have to use my air impact to break the bolts loose. As mentioned in other posts here, the so-called automatic adjuster system is marginal. The left side was stuck but complete with all the little parts, but the right side was missing some parts. The previous owner had rigged up some washers under the ratchet nut to make adjustments. The right side brake system also incorporates the differential lock, and it seems that the right side is famous for leaking oil into the disks and bands. My question . . . can someone explain the engineering that seems to use a two part brake system (Disks and Bands) to stop the powertrain from delivering rotational force to the differential and axles? The brake pedals and/or emergency brake lever apply force to tighten the bands around a round hub that has brake material in the form of disks riveted to each side. How the bands are tightened is easy to see and understand, but how are the disks forced to expand against the steal surfaces? The system seems brilliant, I just can't figure out what causes the disks to expand? The turbo version does not use the bands (Just disks).
I am assuming you have something similar to this Inside, there are several balls that sit in machined ramps. As you pull on the linkage the 2 plates turn, which causes the balls to roll up the ramps. When they do, the 2 plates move away from each other or get wider, squeezing the frictions and steels, causing them to do their job.
Thank you for the explanation. My 580D is non-turbo, so it has the disks assy inside of a drum with a band around it. The principle is the same as you describe. Thank you again