I don't know if this is the right way,but this is how I did it. Drained fluid from both plugs on bottom of shuttle transmission. Both were full of creamy white fluid. Removed Shuttle transmission filter on front of backoe. Dis connected both lines from filter housing. Flushed filter housing with diesel fuel. Let drain overnight. Replaced rear of the two plugs in shuttle transmission and poured in about 1 gal diesel fuel in dipstick opening. Allowed to soak about an hour. (DID NOT START TRACTOR) Removed drain plug and let drain overnight. Next day replaced rear of two drain plugs poured in 1qt hy-trans fluid in dipstick opening. Allowed to set for 1/2 hour. Removed rear drain plug and drained 1/2 hr. Replaced rear of two drain plugs poured in 3 gal hy-trans fluid in dipstick opening. Left filter housing lines disconnected and front drain plug out of shuttle transmission. Started stractor ran about 15 seconds till new fluid came out of bottom line for filter housing.(SHUT OFF TRACOR). Re connected bottom filter housing line and installed filter. Started tractor ran about 15 seconds till new fluid came out of top filter housing connection. (SHUT OF TRACTOR) Re connected top filter housing line. Started tractor watched for new fluid to come out of front drain plug in shuttle transmission. (ABOUT 15 SECONDS). Installed front drain plug and filled shuttle transmission through dipstick opening. Used about 20qts of fluid total. Ran tractor about an hour. Fluid appears to nice and clean now. No milky fluid.
Does any of the newer machines have a port to use for a "complete" fluid change? This seems like an issue on the transmission plus the hydraulic system as well. If you have contaminated fluid there will always be fluid left in the oil cooler, torque converter, cylinders etc. I suppose you have to change the fluids at least twice for bad problems. With cars they have the pump system that supposedly pumps the old fluid out as the new goes in. It looks like the large equipment folks would do something to help with this.
The B has a drain plug on the TC itself, the front plug just behind the engineneeds to be removed, the torque converter turned slowly till a 1/8 pipe thread allen plug comes into view, plug removed will allow TC to drain. No bleeding is necessary, a gear pump on the centerplate under the tank is self priming if in good condition. Mel
Wow, now thats some good info, I have ordered my new shifter boot, changed the fluid this morning and boy was it nasty!! The fluid was very gray and milky. The problem i've been having is that it is very slow or long between shifting from forward and reverse. Is this a typical problem due to milky fluid?
I would say water in the transmission would cause all sorts of problems. You will have fun finding that TC drain plug...
Bowen, It's not really that bad, just takes some time. I just take a long screwdriver and work the engine over a bit at a time, same as the later Borg shuttles with the 7/16 headed plug in them. Mel
I will probably drain my fluid and change again before to long. Melben I will try to located drain plug in torque converter next time. For now fluid looks good considering how nasty it was before I changed it. Hydralic fluid is next. It is milky too. I think I may drain the differential and inspect the gear oil too. Changed engine oil strained it and found no debris. All good so far.
I did not mean to discourage you from finding that drain, because you NEED to get that additional fluid out. Mine has a place to put a barring tool to turn the engine over by hand if I had the tool. If you have someone to help turn the engine over slowly by hand it's probably easy. For mine you need a good small light and someone looking up in that hole underneath. Turn the engine slowly. After I found mine I put a mark on the lower pulley and one on the engine block aligned. It's just easy to miss that tiny plug if you blink. My engine is the Cummins 4-390 Not that this will be the same for yours, but here is from where I was having my experience... HeavyEquipmentForums