New member here. I bought my 1st tractor about a year ago 1987 Case 580E 460T engine. Injector pump leaks at the throttle shaft. Plan on removing it and sending out for rebuild. Any advice/suggestions? Thanks.
The pump guy on this forum will be along shortly. He rebuilds them.
Thanks nova481.
I’d be happy to help.. What kinda info do u need.?
Thanks. Can the top of the pump be removed without removing the pump from the engine? Fuel leak at the throttle shaft. Is there a kit?
Yes it can be repaired without removing the pump. There are some things u need to be aware of.. U might be able to find the procedure either on this site using the search function or Google.. Look up CAV top cover leak or CAV throttle leak.. A lot of times the steel throttle shaft has worn grooves into the aluminum cover.. and it needs replacing or sleeved.. If u look on Amazon or eBay for CAV top cover gaskets.. They range from 9-12.00 with free shipping.. It comes with all the gaskets to repair the leak.. Let me know if u need further information..
Thank you. Will do this research and get back to you.
CAV/Delphi is the pump manufacturer.. DPA is the pump model.. U may see DPA TOP COVER GASKETS.. Don’t get confused.. it’s all the same. Good luck
Got it. I have removed the cover, removed the shafts. cleaned the shaft bores with a piece of scotch brite pad, bores look great, removed the o rings from the shafts, they were rock hard and brittle. Ordered a oring and gasket kit. will report after reassembly and test. Thanks.
WHAT.!!!??? Not 100 questions.?? How did u ever manage.?? Lol
Ha Ha Ha, natural talent I guess. Manuals help. My 1st tractor I will have a few questions. Glad there are guys like you to ask questions of.
If its like the older style CAV I remember ,then don't forget which hole the governor spring was hooked into on the upright plate with numerous holes
I’m getting to the point where I take a bunch of pictures from every angle before I take anything apart. Has saved my ass a bunch of times. Only thing that sucks is having to delete a bunch of pics when you’re done. Then there’s the odd pic of what looks like a built GM 350 with a 4 barrel Holly, that I can’t figure out where it came from. Think it’s like Field of Dreams, wife doesn’t though.
Got it, Thanks
Well, moving right along, new o rings and gaskets on the cover, re install cover, thats tricky. Didn't get it right. Cover leaked when engine started. Loosened the cover and engaged the forward shaft properly, I think. What is that shaft and linkage inside called? Tightened the cover down and bleed air. Now won't start.
And it begins… lol I’ll be back shortly.
The forward shaft is the manual shut off.. and the small nub on the shaft has to engage the cut out in the shut off bar.. Which holes did u put the main gov spring.. On the tomb stone looking piece.. let’s call the top hole #1.. And on the throttle, we’ll call the hole closest to the pivot #3.. Didn’t u have a spring code of “6”.?? Or was that someone else I was helping.??
If it IS a code 6.. the throttle HAS TO END UP IN THE CENTER OF THE SPRING.. It’s easier to take the throttle out of the top cover, put the spring in the last hole, #3, closest to the pivot, and the rest of the holes in the middle of the spring.. Then lube everything up, including the top cover bores and ease the shaft up in the cover.. Double check that the throttle is where it’s supposed to be BEFORE tightening the cover.. And at the same time, engage the shut off nub w the shut off bar..
^^^^^ if you haven’t heard it lately, you’re awesome and a true treasure to this site.
Not sure about the code 6. How do I identify a code 6? Your description doesn't describe what I see.
Rather than everyone guessing.. How about snapping a pic of the pump AND the name plate.
Kool, thank u.. Ur spring code is “1”.. The first hole in both pieces..is where the spring goes..
Another mistake people make is reassembling the throttle lever.. It goes “hat”.. flat washer.. Lever.. U HAVE TO MAKE SURE the flat on the shaft, goes into the cut out in the lever.. It can easily be missed..
Thanks, good info
Sucess. Got the cover on properly. Bled the air out. Engine started right up and ran normally. However there is still a leak. Maybe the solenoid or the manifold end of the pump. Have to take a close look.
Blow it off real good.. Sprinkle the top cover area with baby powder.. And start the engine.. The path of the leak will show up in the powder..
This sounds exciting
I have powder in my shop. Going to try it today.
I’ve found it’s more pleasant if you have your wife sprinkle it.
Found the leak. Powder worked great. Leak is at the end of the pump between the black mounting plate and the yellow manifold with a fuel line connection on top. can this be addressed without removing the pump? O ring or gasket there?
And THIS is why I won’t do a “Patch job” on a DPA pump..
& after u fix this one, the front seals will start leaking and fill the oil pan up with fuel.. Have it resealed…one and done.
Understood. I should bite the bullet, pull the pump and send it to you to rebuild.
On your pump u need a gear puller to pop the gear off the pumps drive shaft.. In front of the pump, radiator side, there’s a big plastic cap.. it unscrews.. use a filter wrench to unscrew it..
Got it. I have the gear puller. Started the removal process today.