I had planned to replace the two fuel filters today. Mine has the inline fuel filter and only one canister style on the engine block. I was going to remove the inline first and notice the fuel line is old, stiff and small cracks in it. I'm looking at local auto parts stores and it seems the stuff in stock is rated to 24 in/hg. I assume this would work or should I find some at an area tractor dealer. If you are curious the part # is D145096 Second question: I need to rebuild a loader dump cylinder. This is my first attempt and have the gland tool. My dipper and boom were the first to fail since owning this backhoe and I had a local guy rebuild them and considering the size I made the right choice. Anyway, it shows a cap in my parts book and on mine it is factory welded. I ASSUME you just take each end of the dump links loose as the cylinder is sandwiched between the two links on the pivot point. I have the repair manual but it wasn't clear or my brain is not engaging.
fuel line is ok BUT.. fuel line is "normally" rated in PSI.. Vacuum line is rated in in/hg.. just say'n.. Incase u didn't know, the supply/lift pump is the weak spot in that system.. also, u should check on a "fuel filter/water separator" to take the place of that filter.. The FF/water sep. has a drain on the bottom..
Some is rated 50psi and another rated 225psi. This line is pulling the fuel off the bottom of the tank.
When possible I try not to remove the whole cylinder from the machine. Remove the hoses, position and support in such a way as to remove just the rod section from the bore. May need an extra hand to help line it up for reassembly. I recommend getting the 'seal twister' tools also if you don't have them. Makes putting in the gland seal much easier. Ebay has the tool. Youtube has some videos.
I did just buy the seal twister tools from Hercules. I thought about seeing what I could do leaving the cylinder on the machine so I will try that. It may be another month before I tackle project unless it just blows out before then. I have a kit for the opposite cylinder too if this one goes ok.
One of the signs I'm seeing on mine is when there is deterioration that can be seen of the wiper seal then it's not long before the gland seal will start leaking. I'm collecting a supply of different seal kits so that the machine isn't down long. I'll wait until they start to leak first.
On cylinder. If gland nut will come loose just pull rod and take to hyd shop with seal kit. For $75 or so they will repack. That is what i did when we repacked all cylinders on our super L. Torque or rod bolt is many hundreds lbs!
I just did a bunch on my machine make sure you take a hammer and tap "called peening" all the way around the cylinder where the gland nut threads into the cylinder. this will break up any rus that has formed in the cylinder threads. Also don't forget to remove the 1/4 " screw between the gland nut and the cylinder or else you will sheer it off it will also make it impossible to turn the gland nut if not removed. Don't be afraid to give it some good rapps all around that cylinder then it should be somewhat easy to unscrew with the spanner tool. I broke two spanner tools before I found out this peening trick.
Your fuel line will probably have a droop or a low spot in it where water will tend to collect. That's the first place they will freeze up in cold weather. Drain it before the cold season. Reminds me of a weeklong activity of trying to get a backhoe restarted in a cemetery on the coldest week of the year. It throwed black smoke but wouldn't start. Took advice from Australia to check if the swing pedal was engaged. Neutralized them and she fired right back up. Something you dont forget.
Well today i replaced the fuel line and filters. There's a local big truck place I never knew about in town and they had the filters and some fuel line. If you have an older unit like this that looks like it has the original fuel line you may need to replace it as mine had a rub mark about half way through it in a spot i would never see. When it came time to purge the air it felt like my fuel pump lever really wasn't doing anything. I could see some bubble coming out of the fitting and I had just filled the tank to almost full. I cracked the fitting into the inline pre-filter until fuel flowed out from gravity but wasn't having anything like the book said coming out of the fitting above the main fuel filter holder. I got the brainstorm to try pushing a smidge of air into the tank. I never could get any bubbles out of the injector pump bleeder. I rolled the dice thinking I may have to get another manual fuel pump. After I got home I was looking at the book and saw that it goes into he block like an old car mechanical fuel pump. So I roll the dice and see if starts anyway as it was late in the day and I had a 2 hour+ drive to get home. Woooo it fired right up. I have discovered on my model it most likely came with the main filter having a water drain on the bottom. I think that was in a picture of the owners manual someone posted her at one time. I think i said this before but my parts books shows two filters on a manifold and mine only has one...it all looks factory.