Hello HEF folks, Probably a couple years or so ago I was posting here trying to find the right piece of equipment for my part time farm operation. You folks told me I needed to spend more, and get a BHL instead of a wheel loader. Well, I saved my pennies and finally, about 6 months ago purchased a 580K series I w/ cab and 4X4. Although I've only logged about an hour on it so far, and look very much like the idiot you wouldn't invite to dinner operating the thing, I really appreciate your advice, and am very happy with it....so far. That's subject to change as I actually get a clue about what I now own. Now to my problem. When I bought it, I did notice a very small Hyd oil leak near the bottom of the radiator. No problem, I figured, all my stuff leaks. I did a couple little jobs with it, and noticed the leak getting bigger. Now, it's so big that after it's running for a couple minutes, the fan is sucking Hyd fluid through the rad, and spewing it on everything aft of it. While looking between the rad and Hyd cooler, I can see oil coming out of the fins/tubes of the hyd cooler, about 3/4 of the way up, (not near the bottom, as I had originally thought) smack dab in the middle of the cooler. The Hyd fluid then gets sucked through the radiator and sprayed everywhere. While standing on the left front tire trying to find a non slippery surface to hold onto to do my lookin', I remembered the guy I bought it from saying he just had the radiator replaced (and it looks new or recored). I'm half guessing, half hoping, that the radiator slipped out of the mechanics hands and dinged the oil cooler, which has now begun to leak at the ding. That reminds me of a funny story about me dropping a small pry bar in my densist's bath tub, chipping the porcelin tub while doing some remodeling for him. Although I paid to have it repaired, I'm wonder if he's remembering it each time I go in for a cleaning! So, I need to pull the oil cooler. The only problem is that I forgot to bring my service manual down to the farm. It's safely in the back seat of my truck, so it would always be with me. However, in a moment of laziness and stupidity, and since my better half was coming down to the farm as well, we took her car to come down here, and I now have no written guidance. It looks like I can remove the 1/4 " steel "band" that goes up one side, over the top, and down the other of the Hyd cooler and maybe get the cooler out, if I can get to the fittings on the bottom. What say you folks? Could someone who has done this (580K series I) jump in here and give me the basics? I've read elsewhere on line that I may need to remove the hood, a weight, the radiator, etc., but it looks like I might be able to skip a good bit of that. Looks can be deceiving. While we're talking about fixing/replacing coolers, let me check my knowledge of what I think against you guy who use this stuff every day know. In my experience, if there's a leak with no indication of a mechanical "hit", wear, or other thing that caused the leak, it's most likely "rot", which will show up again, and again, and again after having the oil cooler soldered. If the problem was caused by dropping the radiator against the oil cooler, no problem, just have a good radiator guy silver solder the hole, or pinch it off and solder it (his choice), and I should be good to go. If I need a new cooler, is it worth trying to find a used one? The new ones are a bit pricey. Thanks for listening to me. I will appreciate your thoughts on this problem! Scott
The oil cooler for the hydraulics & the shuttle transmission are combined so it will be expensive to replace - I would remove the cooler & take it to a repairer for sure. You will need to remove the bonnet; followed by what the parts book calls the radiator shroud & I call the hard nose. You will need 1 1/8" spanner / socket to remove the 4 x mounting bolts & nuts on the hard nose. There are a couple of radiator mounts or supports on each side with 9/16" spanner req. These are bolted through the hard nose & will need to be removed completely from the radiator assembly. Use a bit of timber between the radiator & the hydraulic pump to support it during this process. Use two spanners to loosen the hydraulic lines under the oil cooler, as it is possible to do damage to the cooler by twisting the welded fittings I haven't told you all the bolts you need to undo - but I'm sure you will work the rest out...... Good idea to give cores a good clean while it is apart to get rid of the oil & any other accumulated dirt & grass etc. TIP - Also when refitting the hard nose, fit the 4 x bolts & nuts & push the top of it toward the the rear of the machine as you tighten it, as it needs this to allow the bonnet to shut properly when it is fitted When it's all back together it will need a good degrease to or the radiator will clog up with dirt ......
Thank you Alrman. That's just what I needed - the big picture! Just a couple things I have translated. I've googled Spanner, and it looks like that's what folks in your area call what I know as a wrench (boxed or open end). I was worried you meant what we yanks call a "spanner wrench", which are different things altogether. I'll get to the TLB today and hopefully have something to get repaired. I really appreciate your help!! Scott
I got it out. Thanks again for the help - all went pretty easy. After unbolting them, I was able to just roll the hood and shroud forward onto some lumber I had spanned between the front weight and bucket, so I didn't even have to lift them. The cooler has been patched about half a dozen times. I don't think it will likely be worth patching again. It's part number 184542. I did a little digging, and haven't located a used one. Best price I've found for a new one is a little over $700 USD. Am I missing another avenue for a good used one, or good aftermarket one? As I mentioned before, my feeling is that in general cooling coils that are 30 years old are either leaking, or about to leak unless they've had the best of environments inside and outside. Please correct me if my automotive radiator experience doesn't directly translate to TLB's.
Good news that it's out, I have always done the job with the loader frame raised. It would make it alot easier to work on. But if it works for you... There are plenty of old tractors around, older models than yours, with their original oil coolers in them. The fact that yours has been repaired a few times before maybe just telling you that it's time for a replacement. Those coolers are espeacially made for Case 580Ks - so "aftermarket" sources will be limited to used ones only. But, if one looks good & tests OK , there no reason it won't be OK to use. I guess it will depend on your budget - I dream of buying one at $700 ! Here it would cost $1500 - $2000 for sure! Old Case part numbers usually have a letter in them - eg. A184542 - maybe a typo just making sure
I never even thought about raising the loader to work on it! I'll consider that in the future. I supposed I'm so used to my old farm tractors, where I don't have built in pieces to safely hold up the loader, and I never work under raised hydraulic stuff being held up by only the hydraulics. I had a hose blow a few years ago on a tractor bucket tilt cylinder, and was amazed at how fast the bucket fell. It fell so fast, the first indication I had of a problem was the noise from the bucket hitting the side of the TMR mixer I had the loader raised over. Only a few seconds later did I realize what had happened. I am reconsidering my aversion to old coolers. I guess the copper tubing is more substantial than the tubing of car/truck radiators. Back in the '80's, I had so many problems as a kid trying to keep a 20 year old truck running by buying used 20 year old, $20 radiators. I must have gone through a half dozen before realizing they were most likely all about rotten, given their age. Then I finally bought a new radiator for about $150, and drove the vehicle another 10 years as my daily driver without any radiator problems. Still have the truck, and run it around the farm occasionally. I can spring for the new one, but would rather find a good used one if they exist. We'll see. Thanks for your sharp eye! I went back out to the cooler, and found that it does have an "A" in front of the number. so it is A184542. It also says McCord 19215. I looked them up, and although they're now Behr transfer systems, it doesn't look like they sell parts. Again, thanks for your help! Scott
Congrats on your purchase of a fine machine. The 580K is my first backhoe and I have put quite a few hours on JD G and J, Case L and M, and a Cat: that K will hold it's own against all of these later model machines, eg it will indeed get a lot of work done. If your machine has 4WD: A parts man once told me, 'when you check the lubes make sure you check the front axle planetary's since if you let that hub go dry, it will be expensive and I have seen tough grown men literally weep and cry when presented with the estimate for the parts.'
Planetaries In regard to the planetaries, If they have never been changed, I would recommend that they be drained and refilled, just take the plugs out n turn em down. We have been seeing some badly discolored n burnt smelly oil upon checking levels and they hold less than a quart. It may not even hurt to flush them with fuel or kero and allow them to drip out thoroughly. Mel
Thanks for the info. I still have to go through the machine, change filters/fluids etc. It will be a good learning time for me.