This is a phase III model. Which relay is the starting relay? You are looking at two relay sockets with both relays removed. Parts manual doesn't show a second relay but it might imply the one closest to the cab is it. The sun was hot, bright and without an inspection mirror I couldn't see the wire colors going into the base of the relay. It didn't appear there was a lot of slack in the wire or I would have removed the mounting plate so I could get a better look at the wire colors. I do have a service manual. My starter won't turn over I want to take the neutral switch out of the picture before I pull the %^&* floor plates up again.
If you get to testing the terminals with a test light while someone is turning the key to crank, do any of the leads show power with the correct key position? But if the neutral switch is open, you won't get any power to the relay; or the neutral switch is downstream from the relay, and then you would see power. You really need to study your service manual and work out where the power is during cranking. Ground your test light at the same spot the relay is grounded, I've gotten fooled when I grounded it to another spot, had power and still couldn't get it to work. Turned out the relay ground was rusted and no ground circuit. Had an AC compressor not pull the clutch in because of crud between the mount and the block. Once I cleaned the mounts, it worked.
I opened both relay caps today and the one towards the front looked like new inside. The one closest to the cab has some wear on the contacts so I believe I answered my own question. The neutral switch actually opens the negative wire to the relay. The hoe is 100+ miles away so have been tinkering with while visiting on weekends. I also figured out which terminal does what so really no need now to see wire colors. Two coil wires and one set of normally open/normally closed contacts using the same common.
I was able to jumper the relay and the starter cranked. Isn't that switch under the floor plates? Front or rear? Can you access it from underneath? Mine is sitting in chigger heaven and I was reluctant to crawl under it. I just cut a truck mat to replace the worn out floor mat and hating the idea I have to take all that out again.
Reference link below from the Case parts web site. Looks like the neutral switch #44 is on the valve which is on top of the transaxle. http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr54946ar1043004bi3764141-44 If you have not confirmed the neutral switch is providing ground to starter relay coil with the FNR lever in neutral, I would suggest checking that first at the relay socket, as that would be a very quick check before going after the actual neutral switch. If you are getting ground to the relay coil with the FNR in neutral, then no need to dig for the switch.
Just recalled there are a couple different 580K configurations. If you look at the Case parts web site there is a serial number break on the 580K model and the neutral switch configuration varies. See link below as example. Would suggest you use your serial number on the web site to get the proper configuration drawing for your machine. http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr54945ar338491bi2726792-48
The first drawing was for the right model. It's definitely lost the ground through that switch. I'm even wondering if a mouse has gotten into the wiring as I think I pulled a nest out of there when I had those covers off before. Thanks for your help.
Late follow up. I like when people follow up and I forgot to on this one. It turns out a mouse or probably rat had set up shop right by the neutral switch and chewed the wire in half. I was able to scab it back together after removing cab floor panels.
Would you have any pictures?