I might go look at a couple case 580K's for sale locally, but I have virtually no experience with backhoes. Is there anything in particular I need to look out for with these hoes, and backhoes in general while inspecting them. How much slop in considered too much in the pins? These are 4x4 units so is there anything in particular I need to look out for in the four wheel drive system? Any help would be much appreciated. Also, what are peoples opinions on the 580K's? Are they good hoes reliablity and durablility wise? Oh and one more thing. What would it take to convert 4 stick controls to cat or deere controls and general price if I did the work myself?
If 4x4 check the front hubs for slack in them. The set up of the 4x4 will eat up the front axle then it will start leaking inside the wheel or right where the front shaft goes into the hub. Had to rebuild them before it is no fun let me tell you. Also look at the battery box sometimes they become loose and you will get hard starts or no starts like the battery is dead but it is the box is loose so not a good ground. Of course rust is always a problem with these models.
Can't give ya much help on the technical part of your question Palmer, but in the field I can say that the K model Case was never a favorite of mine or fellow operators I have discussed this with. Not to say it was a dud by no means, It just never stood out as a fresh new Case Idea as the E or M models did. The k model seemed a bit tired in the front end after not too many hours on the hobbs. There are a lot of them around so it may have just been the ones in this area that did not seem as popular as the other models of Case backhoes. As far as the conversion kits, I have heard that might be an expensive venture with the foot swing and all.
Are you looking at a K because your looking for at slightly cheaper priced machine than something like an M? If that's so, a 580K isn't a bad choice. The K may not be the favorite of insleyboy in his post, and he probably has a good reason. But it's my experience, as a mechanic that has worked on K's with thousands of hour on them, that they're not a bad choice for an older loader/hoe. I'd take a K over a New Holland or JCB of that vintage. The K was a reliable, well built machine, and friendly for the mechanic to work on. The ductile iron hoe boom is tough, the rear axles are good, the shuttle trans is easy to work on, and the Cummins engine is as good as it get's. But if it's a 4wd, take advice given previously and check it closely. I wouldn't worry to much about the "4 lever" controls, once you start working with it, it won't take you long to get the hang of it. Another machine you might look at is the JD 410D. It's would be my second choice over a 580K.
I have owned my 580k 4x4 ext.hoe for a little over 4 years and I must say it is a tough machine. If I have any complaint it is a little short on front bucket power. it has a bypass built in that limits how much you can lift to protect the front axle. It will dig as well as any I have run and so far has been virtually trouble free. as far as 4 sticks go, I was not real happy to learn a new pattern but now I don't know that I would go back to wobble sticks. the cummins is a great engine with plenty of power. I have done some serious rock digging with mine with out any problems except losing a tooth now and then. Mine had 4400 hours when I bought it and still runs strong. not a bad machine to road either. It is heavy(17,000 lb.) but has good traction and is hard to get stuck. I would not give it up for a cat or jd and I have a lot of hours on both. Bill
Hey Bill, I'm right there with you on the old K!
I have experience on a 410d deere and 580e. Not really comparing apple to apples. the 410 is one strong machine but isnt as nimble as the 580. the 580 is a lot nicer to road and the cummins engine is damn reliable. like everyone said check that front end.
Any idea how to check out the transmission on a 580K phase 3?
Not trying to hijack, just tring to get past the 3 post rule.
thanks for your patience.
K's in my area had hyd tank cracking. Also were the loader frame arms connects to the tractor look for repairs. It's an easy conevert from foot to hand swing, usually you can find a case dealer with a wobble stick BH and he will swap you pay labor, or get used parts. A different spring in the swing valve needs to be changed to. My best buy is Super L Series 2 for a used Case BH.
I thought of some other things to check for also. Check the inside of the frame in front of the cab if you see diesel leaking run. The diesel tank in these hoes is in the frame and alot of times it will crack right in front of the cab. Also check the brakes, I have heard they are not fun at all to fix or work on for that matter. I have run a K for alot of hours and have enjoyed it if I was looking for a tractor for the farm I would include them, but I have a good idea what to look for.
How to Check Out a 580K Transmission? Looking at used 580K phase 3 backhoes. What is the recommended check out procedure for the transaxle? The first machine had a bad transmission so I called a dealer and they said the phase 3 machines normally require a 5000.00 repair when the transmission goes out . I'm going to look at another this week and am curious what you guys recommend as a checkout procedure. Thanks in advance!!
Your question is rather vague. You mention transaxle and transmission. Are you talking about the rear axle (transaxle) which is part of the "transmission"? Are you talking about the shuttle transmission? Or are you possibly, because it's not clear, talking about the front 4wd axle? I don't know of any specific procedure to "check" any of these compontents for thorough inspection, since, none of them are in pieces. The best you can do is get on the machine, go fwd then rev, listen for any noises or strange feeling clunks. Try all the transmission speeds, shifting while moving, and shifting while still. Do any of the gear engagements feel strange, how are the detents, do any "pop out of gear", again, noises. Same goes for rear axle. Turn sharp corners left and right with diff lock off as well as on (note: things will "feel" strange when turning sharp with diff lock on, one tire should be plowing gravel), if not, diff lock probably ain't working. Your looking for stange noises and clunks. How's the brakes work? Are they adjusted to be equal when each pedal is depressed? Any brake chatter? A lot of K's get brake chatter with improper or cheaper trans fluid. Look for leaks where axles come out of axle housing, front and rear. Could be bad seal, could also be bad bearings. Pull the dipsticks, what's the oil look like? White colored oil in the trans is not good. This is just the usual things a person would check on any machine of this type.
We had one get stuck in 1st couldn't shift it no matter what tried rocking it and moving with the bucket to get it to shift no luck. took it to case dealer said trans was fried need another one for 5000.00. We parked it wasn't worth fixing. But before it went out it had been hard to shift between gears also put it in 4th and see if it will climb a hill or just bogg down. When trans is going south it will barely pull if at all if you hit a hill. Some of the k's have trans stick under hood and then others are behind seat under a cover depends and series I guess.
Now I'll be quick to admit I can be wrong as I haven't worked on every K year model made, but all those I've worked on the Shuttle Trans (fwd/rev) trans dipstick is accessed under the hood in the engine compartment. The gearbox trans dipstick is accessed via a hole in the cab floor under the seat. You may have made a good call by not buying one that the dealer said the trans was trashed. On the other hand, it might not have been trashed, just needed repairs. Seems with it's problems, if the rest of the machine was good, you might have obtained it at a darn good price. As for repairing the gearbox trans; I have completely disassembled the guts of one in a K and repaired/replaced bad parts without removing the trans housing or transaxle from machine. Not too many machines I've been able to do that.
there was alot more wrong then just the trans. the motor locked up not long after the trans stuck in 1st. The hydro pump was weak and it had a crack in the frame where the fuel tank was. The 4wd didn't work and the front hubs needed to be repaired. Machine had 9000 hours on it and the hour meter hadn't worked since I was around them.
I'm surprized you didn't say the seat fell off the pedestal when you got off the machine!
hi. i own a 580k and im looking for a workshop manuel online. please email on [email protected]
Thanks for the replies Thanks. That was the kind of information I was looking for. Going tomorrow to look at one. Seems like the Phase 3 transmissions are OK but when they go, they're more espensive to repair than the Phase 1s with the Borg-warner reversers. Thanks again! Great Website and helpful folks!
We had a 2000 Case 580Super L2, I swear by L's. The newer K's are ok, but the L's are the way to go. 4,100hours on it, it was well maintained, only 2 operators, and it worked hard, never had one major problem. Only problem we had was muffle mount bolts. Majority of guys I know who have years more on Cases than me swear by the L's. I'd spend the extra money to get a low houred 580Super L, I know I will when the time comes for me to buy my own backhoe. 580l's are to light and on the small side but good for lighter work. Stay away from 1995's, only year I heard had problems with the tranny. Id go with an E or L.
I had a 580 Super E bought new kept it 17 years never had any hydraulic leaks, just a external seal in the shuttle very easy fix. 8900 hrs. mostly hoe ram and drilling. 580 Super L Series 2 is the great machine to buy.
Interesting...leaving in a few minutes to go check one out. I talked to the owner a few minutes ago and he said he ha just left to go get everything warmed up. I asked him to wait because I wanted to see it cold. He seemed suprised...
Good idea, look at the machine "AS IS." Same filters hopefully with the last dates changed, not pressurewashed, see how the machine was kept before it's dolled up.
Here's what we found: 1991 super k, standard bucket and hoe, ROPS, 3939hrs. Engine was warm - guy had already started it up, kinda ticked me off cause I asked to see cold start??? Engine started and ran fine Injector pump leaking around the throttle shaft Brakes went to the floor - stopped smoothly, no chatter. Noticed oil on firewall under the pedals - checked fluid, almost empty appeared to be leaking from right master cylinder Hydraulics strong - easily lifted tractor at idle with loader and hoe Extended hoe parallel to ground, shut engine off-could push hoe about 12" Machine was on a slight incline boom was slowly drifting downhill Took the machine out on the road, shuttle shifted fine, clutch disconnects work, all 4 gears work forward and reverse Noticed moderate blowby after road trip, also noticed white smoke when in 3rd and 4th What are your thoughts - are these normal wear items or would you pass on this machine?
Pass - for these reasons: standard hoe - there are lots of e-hoes available in this economy with the blowby you talked of, the hour meter is not correct sounds like there are brake and fuel system issues, and most of all, He didn't respect your wish to see and start it cold. That's a biggie in my book.
What is he asking for it???
Look there are lots of good machines for sale. Standard hoe why buy? We are in a buyers market, get a machine that will always be in hi demand. extenda hoe, 4 x 4, 4 in 1 bucket, a cab is always a plus. And needs no repairs, unless you want to do that and, all the costs and time running for parts. Go to the swing post first and then look at the rods on cylinders, that will tell 50% of what kind of shape it's i Then the power train and the seals.
I'm with you on all the "extra's" Darryl, except for the 4in1 bucket. That subject has aired many times in this forum. My feeling is it's too heavy, too clumsy and I personally cant get a good feel on the backdrag with the heavy bucket as much as the standard one. 580k model with the 4x4 the extendahoe and a full cab is a good machine. The super E models 580 and 590 are just a bigger seller around here. You see them everywhere and hardly ever a 4 in 1!
Did you buy it?
No, we didn't buy it. Went back a second time to start it cold. Showed up 30 minutes before we were supposed to be there. It was about 29 degrees and engine was warm. Left before the owner showed up. Passed him on the road, he called wanted to know where we were going. Told him I didn't deal with dishonest people. We found a 331x bobcat mini x from an honest guy in a tight spot. Bought it. Spent some cash on some overdue maintenance items. Been using it ever since and absolutely love it. Need a track loader to go with it
I have a 580K trying to reach 3 posts to get injector pump/fuel delivery questions answered. Thanks.
My case 580 super k doesnt want to climb a hill in 4th and it makes an awful vibration in 3rd and 4th. do you guys think my trans in going and do you think the vibration is from the u joints or from bald, i mean really bald tires? I just bought it and i didint even try 3rd and 4th. it can push great in 1st and pretty much all of my uses for it will be low speed! I was hoping to not have to trailer it for close jobs though! I am planning on getting new tires soon but i want to see what its gonna take to get it going good before I drop a grand on tires.
I wouldnt worry, depending on how steep the hill, the machine will dog down. Use a lower gear. If it pushes fine in 1st and second than your fine. Bald tires will be smooth, new tires especicially with treads that have sqaure edges will vibrate like crazy.
ok thank you! the guy i bought it from seemed to baby the machine! I looked at around 20 backhoes and this was the cleanest with with only 5100 hrs, original paint only 1 spot of rust where loader arm attaches to frame, looks like it was welded.
Going to go look at a 580k and a superk on Tuesday. Both have full cabs, 4x4, and 4 In 1 buckets. The super has an e - how and appeared to be newer and in better shape. Will try to do a very thorough inspection Tuesday morning
Control conversion is easy. I converted my SuperL from 2 stick to 4 stick. I bought a 4 stick set up from ESI in cambridge OH. They mailed it to me and I sent my controls back to them. It is the whole tower, unbolt it from the floor, pull the clevis pins, bolt new one to the floor and put clevis pins back in. Pretty minor job. Cost me about 250-300 bucks
I went from a 3 lever foot swing to a 2 stick ,it took a bit to get on to it .But I would not go back to multiple sticks . I find it quicker and more smooth
Using the hydraulic latch is weird took about 3 or 4 tries lol. I ended up getting the 580sk for more than I wanted to pay, but it only had 3800hrs. 4 in 1 bucket, e - hoe, heat, a/c cab, floor pan patched, decent original paint, ok tires, strong motor. I paid 19.5k minus the 5k for my kubota that's broke in half. I did get them to throw in full service, new batteries, new floor mat, and delivery. Heck filters 3 gal engine oil and like 30 gal hydraulic oil will be worth it. I should of checked to see if the a/c worked though...