The steering repairs on my TLB are kicking my butt for such a simple design. The latest obstacle is removing the leaking steering cylinder. The gland popped out of the tube pretty easily when I removed the four bolts. The cylinder rod also came out easily. The tube itself is another story. The service manual shows the cylinder being tapped out with a nylon hammer. A sledge hammer and block of wood wouldn't budge mine. I put a pipe wrench on the flange and was able to turn it a few degrees with the help of the sledge hammer. I was then able to rotate it back by placing a bottle jack under the pipe wrench. I suppose it will eventually loosen with the alternating hammer and bottle jack, but it was 10 degrees out today and I had other chores to finish. I sprayed it with Kroil and will try again tomorrow if there's not too much snow. Anyone tips? The gland and rod look good. I'm tempted to replace the seals in the tube in situ but I'd rather do it off the machine so I can inspect the tube.
I almost never take a cylinder off a machine for a repack...
Totally agree with @mitch504 If the piston seal is unmarked - the cylinder wall is unmarked. Just fit the new seals & refit the piston/rod assembly.
You could use a mirror and flashlight to look in the barrel. Or, if you have a smartphone with a camera , take a couple of photos of it.
Over the weekend, I repacked the steering cylinder in place with no problems. I replaced the tie rods, the left side upper king pin and aligned the front wheels. It doesn't drive like a Corvette but the 9 mile trip to my farm isn't exhausting anymore. I appreciate all the guidance.
Would anyone know how I would get one of these tubes out? I’m replacing the axle housing on a case 580 sm and I’m having a hard time getting mine loose?
Hey there, just wondering if you got the ram cylinder out and how you went about it?? Cheers
Need more info on how you went about the front wheel alignment please.
I used 1 1/2” PVC pipe to measure the distance between the front and back of the tires. I adjusted the tie rods until I had slight toe-in. I’ve used this technique a lot and you can get very close. Last year I replaced a bent tie rods on one of my farm trucks. I performed my pipe alignment and when I took it to the shop it was within specs. I have a couple carpenters angles I duck tape to the ends for vehicles with low clearance. The slight toe-in is important because it compensates for any looseness and doesn’t add to tire wear appreciably.
Something was in the way of my measuring and I want to say it was the front weight. Could not get to the center of the tire in a straight line.
My 580M doesn’t have a counterweight so I prolly didn’t have to use my carpenter squares. With the squares attached you can measure with the pipe laying on the ground
Excellent idea. I should have taken a picture of the contraption I made and given everyone a laugh. Started out trying to use lasers, went to strings. Now, I need to recheck. Thanks.
Post a picture for everyone elses benefit. Pictures are good. Simon C
I’ve tried lasers and strings, best thing I got was when I was doing my SXS. It’s a 10’ straight edged that’s collapsible to 5’. It’s extruded aluminum, so it’s very ridged. Two would be even better but I think it was like 40 bucks.