The door on my Case 580se has lots of issues but I’d like to fix it and get it back on the machine: - top hinge on door is broken...do you know if they sell this steel bracket or would I have to fabricate it, parts manual doesn’t list the hinge bracket as a separate part, probably got to fabricate it. The steel of the door is such light gauge that it might be hard to get something solid to weld to. - no window .... was going to replace with a plexiglass insert, overlay the frame by 3-4” on outside, attach with stainless screws/nuts and caulk to seal. Might be easier to just use OEM window gasket If I could find it. - Latch on door frame on ROP cab is broken and appears to have some parts missing. Could someone post a picture of what should be there, the parts manual doesn’t show this. - Inner window panel latch seems pretty busted up, I’m guessing I’ll have to find a replacement. ...or might be easier to find a good used door at the boneyard !
Birdseye; Go here and use the toggle boxes ( previous & next) to find exactly what you need. Click your mouse on the image to enlarge it. https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...-door/cn/859A106C-8FBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
Some of what your looking for is commercially available. The handles are most likely standard. Measure the mounting holes, and the rod. The link below has several options. They may not look OEM but will most likely work. https://www.industrialhwe.com/industrial-handles-and-pulls/ The internals for the latch will be more complex and going used or OEM might be your only choice. You will also have to weld up the catch plate for the latch, and the door hinge. I would caution you against just caulking the plexiglass in, it will leak and look like crud. Use an trimlock gasket like Case did when the machine was new (24). https://www.trimlok.com/rubber-extrusion/locking-gasket The outer door seal is also a standard gasket. There are several makes for these, you should be able to find something looking on amazon, or ebay. Below is some examples. https://www.trimlok.com/rubber-extrusion/trim-seal
FYI, a real glass shop, not a windshield replacement shop, will have the ability to cut you a window and they have the rubber seal for installing. They will have it on a roll.
Thanks for the resources ! Getting the window gasket instead of caulk is definitely the the way to go, you convinced me. I’ll shop around for a reseller so I don’t need to buy 200’. ebay has some, 25’ for $55 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trim-Lok-E...303127?hash=item5959d641d7:g:xB4AAOSwNxxfgWW3
Be sure the gasket fits the door thickness. I installed laminated glass from a glass shop with very good results in my own T/L/B. The OEM glass may have been a tempered glass in yours.
Thanks Tinkerer. Right now I am trying to get this backhoe to the point where I can stop the deteriorating, so Without spending a lot of money: - keep water/weather out of the cab..will try to use my plexiglass with a piece of door gasketing. - re-seal leaking cylinders, 3/5 done - re-build battery box, 90% done - fix major electric issues, done Then access the operations strengths and weaknesses. When opening up the boom cylinder that sits vertically most of the time with a rotten wiper seal facing skyward, I noticed quite a bit of what appeared to be water in the hydraulic oil that drained out of the cylinder when I removed the rod/piston. This probably means I have more water in the hydraulic system and will need a full flush when I’m done re-packing the final cylinder. Can someone send me a picture of what the latch on the ROP pillar looks like. Thanks
I tried plexiglass and lexan. It was a waste of money that could have been applied towards the laminated glass I used to replace it. Plexiglass and Lexan draws dirt like flies to cows##t. There is no way to clean it without putting millions of fine scratches on it that will obscure your vision when the sun shines through it.
Plexiglass/Lexan that you buy in the hardware store or Home Depot is not really any good for vehicle window replacement. As @Tinkerer noted you will get tiny fine scratches that will make seeing out of them in the sun near impossible. There is a type of Lexan meant for vehicle windows and I priced out a sheet. Once you see the price of that stuff you will go with glass. One of the last things on my backhoe rebuild project is to have all new glass made and installed. I am sure it won't be cheap but it will be worth it.
Ok got it. I have this piece of plexiglass laying around and wanted to temporarily keep the water out of the cab while I tend to other things needing fixed. After that I’ll get the proper glass , I agree it’s the way to go. Right now I have to see if I can get the door hinge fabricated and welded spliced onto the remaining stub of a hinge.
I have spent hours trying to get the plexiglass and trimlok one piece gasket in the door frame. There must be some trick I’m missing, So far I have: - cut the panel with specified .222 gap - used soapy water - watched the utube video I don’t have any tools because I thought the tools were only for the two piece gasket. This may be my mistake, any suggestions on tools for the one piece trimlok gasket? Should I - trim the panel smaller? - give up and take it to a glass shop, but I’m so close, I almost got the panel in but can’t seem to get the last bit and then the sob pops out. Quite frustrating.
As long as you are confident the piece is cut to the correct size it should go in. What I have done on old cars that had this type of seal it to fit the seal to the glass. insert a piece of rope, usually 1/4", in the part where it is supposed to seal on the flange. put the rope so that there are two tails and the meet at the center of the bottom. Then with a helper set the glass in the lower flange as best as possible then have your helper keep pressure from the outside against the glass while you pull the rope slowly around the opening. Helper should use one hand to push as you pull the rope the hother hand can be used to just keep pressure on the other section. Use a little soapy water to help pull the lip inside. .222 gap means your dimension should be .444 smaller than the opening. Not trying to insult you but making sure you did not make a mistake in sizing the piece
Agree with edgephoto, you must have .222 clearance all the way around window glass to frame. Set the window inside the frame. With both flat together on a bench, insure you have the clearance by running a wooden dowel ( .222 dia) all the way around the window. Trim the plexi/lexan window as needed. Use plenty of soapy water solution. Temperature of window /frame/seal above 60 degrees F I use a old dull metal flat screw driver. Watch sample video...... Video Instruction: https://www.trimlok.com/lkinstall Second thought... Are you sure its a .220 /.222" center on your gasket design you have. I would measure the gasket center . t
Thanks for the reply’s. I got the value of .220” for the all around gap between panel and edge from the answers section posted by Trimlok on Amazon (pic). I measured the center section of gasket I have and it is .22. So I’m thinking this must be the recommended value , no room for air just edge/rubber/glass all almost touching in a close fit. I’ll try calling them today. good suggestion re the blunt screwdriver, I was using a Bic pen and a small flat bar aka beekeepers hive tool. About the rope trick I’ll also give that a try, are you saying that you put the gasket around the glass first and then gently push and sort of pull it into the frame ? It sounds like it might work. The one issue is that the thick rubber gasket won’t stay in place on the glass it wants to return to a straight piece. I’ll try using tape to hold it in place. I found this video that demonstrates the rope trick, definitely need a helper and tape :
After further review...... Your spec of .222" clearance from Amazon Q&A is off. (LK1663 Seal design with .220" center web thickness) You are goin in too tight even with lube! Set up for a .250" minimum gap window to frame all the way around....... Pulled from Trim Lok website: https://www.trimlok.com/rubber-extrusion/locking-gasket/one-piece/lk1663
As you can see, that is the minimum gap. It would be nearly impossible to get it in with that gap. Cut the panel or glass a little smaller to increase the working room. The insert may or may not settle some. That would only increase the panel to gasket gap a very small amount. I think glass shops make a pattern out of hardboard before they cut the glass. That allows them to make adjustments to the pattern for a nice fit.
Finally, after several attempts with the string method , laundry detergent as lube and carefully, slowly pushing and prying the gasket onto the metal frame, I got it!! That was a major struggle, i must have been doing something not quite right or the glass panel was a bit big, not sure.
Getting the Glass in my tractor was a pain with the new gaskets. The glass shop gave me a little plastic prybar that was a godsend. We lubed it with dishsoap and really had to work it in. I suspect with experience it gets easier. The glass shop said that they liked using the old gaskets if they are in good shape. Since they are formed to the frame already its easier to get the glass in.