My very well maintained 580SL series1 4WD c/h/a 6000 hrs. is getting very hard to shift the 1-4 range.The linkage feels tight.It comes out of gear to neutral fine and you can go right back from neutral into the gear you can out of real easy.Is this a common problem?
It's been near 3 years since I worked on the Case loader/hoes, so I don't remember how the shift worked. If I remember, the Super L didn't use a floor shifter. Where is the shifter located? And it would help if you described your problem a little more detailed. You said your having problem shifting 1 - 4. But you can shift out of a gear to N easy, then easy back into the gear you came out of, correct? How does it shift from 1 - 2, or 3 - 4? How's the crossover of the H pattern? When your in N on the 1 -2 side, is it easy to cross over in N to the 3 - 4 side?
could be the shift solenoid is not fully disengaging. if it has a lot of slop in the shift linkage it may be binding up under the floor plate. have you tried pulling the floor plate up to see the linkage?
It don't seem like a linkage problem.I looked at the linkage last year from the bottom and it looked tight and well lubed.I did not know you could take a plate up from the inside i can probally see it a whole lot better that way.
My 580k has 3? plates which you can remove to open up pretty much the whole top of the drivetrain. When I pulled mine this spring I took the pressure washer and cleaned it all from the top down before fixing my shift linkage. It makes it nice to see what you are doing and to keep from getting debris in anything you open up. If you could describe your problem in a little more detail it would be easier to help diagnose it. Mine shifts nice and crisp now. have you checked your voltage at the shift switches? Mine has a switch on the shifter and loader control to disengage the clutch. Is it easier to shift when it is warmed up?
580SL Shift problem First the 580SL series 1 is in no way similar to any previous Case backhoe. The L series uses a Carraro transmission. This series 1 had several update bulletins released on them. You might be able to find out from a case dealer whether these updates were performed. They will not be covered now but at least you would know. The first series had bad synchros which often caused them to be hard to shift. Sometimes there was as much as 1/8" to 1/4" of play in the snychros. We had several blow the synchros right out of them. There was a massive upgrade program. I don't know of a single 580sl series 1 that left our dealership without some sort of upgrade on the transmission or transmission replacement. The only other thing that can cause hard shifting is the shift rails or detent balls and springs are rusted. Yes they could rust because they are so high up on the transmission that no oil splashes up there. Volvo uses the same trans in their backhoes and they have a lube line to the shifter. That is an easy check, remove mat, floor plate. Unbolt shifter from shift tower 18mm bolt head. Remove the 3 allen head screws from the tower, lift it off and check for rust. Hope this helps.
Thanks gggraham i will check that when i get time.I also hate the priority swing that came on the series1.I would like to disable mine but my research on cost made me live with mine.
The swing priority is expensive to take out. Lots of new valve sections. The one thing I would check on that unit is the blower motor switch. The early switches would heat up and cause a fire if not just burn the wires back about 3 inches or so. Just take the 4 screws out of the plastic cover and look behind. If the switch is blacked or the wires look brownish or black change it out. The only other thing that can go wrong with those series 1 machines is the modulation valve on the transmission. Typical symptom is lazy going into gear forward and reverse followed by no drive at all. The ears break off the snap ring that stops the piston. After slamming into it several 100 times the ears break off and stick the piston. It's item #16 in the diagram. You got some time one day it's easy to get at the valve is easy to remove. Follow the parts diagram, remove the 4 allen screws on the cap. Remove the springs and piston look in bore. If it has a snap ring I would remove the snap ring take the valve to the case dealer. They have a tool and a new style ring that goes in the bore. You need the tool to insert it. Ring shouldn't be more than a couple bucks, if they're decent for the 30 seconds it takes to install they won't charge you anything. Usually the gasket will stay with transmission and just bolt valve right back on. If that modulation piston sticks just right it can screw the valve up and it's about a $2000 ouch.
Thanks ggraham i will check the valve along with the blower switch,shift detent soon and i may have more questions then.
Any updates? I just bought a 590 SL and it seems to me that it's hard to get into gear. This is my first experience with an SL, so I don't know if it's normal or not.