I.own.an.old.580CK.and.was.changing.the.fluids.There.are.4.drain.plugs.but.I.do.not.know.what.the.second.one.in.between.the.engine.oil.and.the.shuttle.oil.drain.is.for.Anybody.know.what.this.plug.is.suppose.to.drain?.Thank.you.in.advance
Period end of story! I believe the plug you are describing is the converter housing drain. Generally you shouldn't get too much fluid out of it. Maybe a quart at most. So it goes something like this: form front to back; Oil Pan Drain, Converter Drain, Shuttle Drain and finally Differential Drain. F.Y.I. : There is also an inspection/timing plug on the top right side of the bell housing just beneath where the power steering lines cross over the bell housing. That thing with the periods is a little crazy! What's that all about?
Thanks for the info on the drain plugs. And sorry for all those periods but the computer is was on when I made the post had a broken space bar so that was the only way I could space out the words. If I drain the converter housing do I need to refill and if so how? Once again thanks for the information.
No space bar, that's a problem! Well, The manual says to drain it every 1000 hours or yearly. I usually just drain it and refill the shuttle. It'll find it's way in the converter housing on it's own. This has always worked for me. Also, the filter for the shuttle is located behind the grill on the left side of the tractor. Most people use NAPA Part # 1518 the equivalent of Case # A39578. If the machine has been sitting a ong time then a couple of shuttle fluid changes may be necessary to get most of the water out. Check out Sam's Club for some cheap hydraulic/trans oil to accomplish this! Takes about 16-17 quarts and there are 20 quarts in a five gallon pail. Once this is done you can put a better fluid in if you like or check out Papa Goose's post on switching to Dexron here:
okney, thanks for the info again. Another question. Is there a drain plug in the converter itself that you can get to from the drain hole to drain the converter?
**580 b ck** Not that I am aware of and there is no mention of it in the manual. I also ended up ordering new gaskets for all of the drain plugs after the first time I changed all of the fluids in my machine. It can help with plugs that seep a bit even after repeated tightening and they're cheap enough at Case too. Hope this helps!
Thanks okney I'll do like you say and change the shuttle fluid a few times and then maybe buy a pail of TCH fluid for the shuttle for the final fill. The machine ran good but I parked it about 6 months ago cause I had a bad leak from my boom cylinder. Just got it repacked and want to get some work done on my property soon. The machine sat in the rain and and there is water in most of my fluids but most in the shuttle. we get over 100 inches of rain a year were I'm at in the rain forest. Thanks for all the info.
Re the rain water in your shuttle oil, it may be getting in through the shuttle cover gasket, where the oil fill is. I've seen numerous deteriorated gaskets under this cover for some reason and many missing oil fill plug gaskets. The starter gasket might be suspect too but all these shuttle gaskets will leak oil, if in poor condition. Check the shuttle vent for integrity. Heat exchangers can leak one way, but not the other, not always dependent on the pressure difference. 580B's are known for shuttle oil cooler failures in the radiator, but usually only leak oil into the coolant. A spot to be aware of on the 580B are the hydraulic tank vents. Often in poor condition, I replace them with new. Princess Auto has them in 3/8"NPT and an adapter is needed, to 1/4"NPT. Phil
Thanks Phil I really appreciate all the tips and info that you guys have given me. The shuttle oil filler cap was only on hand tight so probably got water from there. Is the gasket copper or paper I can't remember if there was one or not will have to check. I do have a tarp over the machine now and maybe someday I'll be able to get a real roof over it some day. Is there anything I should be aware of when I put my newly repacked cylinder back on before I use it? Any bleeding involved?
Cylinders & Stuff I believe the gasket Phil is referring to(Shuttle cover) will be a black paper gasket. Case Part # G46842. If you're feeling handy you can probably make one yourself. The dipstick gasket will probably be a plastic washer similar to the drain plug gaskets, Case part # A38660 (Replaces #G10351). Also check the shifter boot and make sure it is also "weather tight". Many people on here have mentioned it as another cause of water infiltration. Cylinder installation Per the manual: 4. Torque hose and tube connections to specifications in section 1051. 5. Lubricate cylinder pivot points with grease specified in section 1050. 6. Start engine and run at low idle. Operate the cylinder(s) through several cycles to bleed air from the circuits. Do not "bottom out" the cylinder(s) until the cylinder(s) move smoothly and without hesitation. After circuit is filled with oil, engine speed may be increased and the cylinder(s) may be operated normally. 7. Stop engine and check for leaks. Check reservoir oil level and add oil as required." Hope this helps!
Thanks Okney,and Phil, I really appreciate all the info and advice that you guys have to give. I haven't had to work on the machine yet but I'll let you guys know how everything works out when I get it done.