So I have reached a point after 18 months that I need to replace the recoil spring on my D6. I was able to successfully remove the mounting bolts for the spring guide however the guide itself (block) is fused securely to the track rail. I have tried heat, a BFH, hydraulic ram and am having no success getting this to break loose. It's a cast item and I do have concerns about breaking it if I use too much force. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Is there still tension on the spring? Not a good Idea trying to remove those if there is tension on them
As above. If there is still tension on the spring then the next move should be to cut it with an oxy-acetylene torch before proceeding further. They are not called Death Springs for nothing.
Had already traveled down that road.
Pull the old spring out of the frame. Look close at the guides there should be dowels give them a tap just to get them to move Don't go to far they will drop inside of frame once the spring is out a bar or a wedge will be helpful because of the dowels it has to come up pretty even
If I understand you correctly pittsburgh cat man the dowels are vertical from the frame to the block? That would explain why I could not get any side to side motion. If I used a chisel at the seam to pry the block upward I assume this would be advantageous? I have two bolts yet to remove... one at the yoke and one at the front plate of the tension cylinder before I can remove the whole assembly. I have not removed these yet as they are very difficult to get to with any kind of leverage. All other bolts came out after applying heat but these last two are being a pain. Just no clearance. Also still have the end nut to get off on the back side of the spring. There is an appearance that it may have been welded onto the tension cylinder rear shaft.
yes the dowels are vertical The nut on the rear of spring doesn't need to be removed it should come out as it has to be on there when you install the spring. and I know it's not politicly correct but you can get a lot of leverage with a big hammer on the wrench
This illustration shows the dowels. The reason that the parts book says 8 is because it lists the parts for both sides of the machine. Each of the two (L & R) stops for one recoil spring has two dowels
no no... that's politically correct.... BFH is not politically correct. So I put a lot more heat to it this morning... and used a coal chisel at the seam where the block meets the frame and still could not get the block itself to budge. It is, I assume, rusted solid to the frame. I can not get under the block in any way, shape, or form.
I think if it were me I would turn a couple of the coils around and cut the other side so you could get them off center bolt then I would cut the center bolt it's most likely junk anyhow and try and get rear pilot and spring parts out then push front pilot to rear there is a space between guide and frame where the front pilot rides you might be able to drive your chisel in there to get it to move As before make sure spring is loose before you cut the other side of coils
Of course it is Big Friendly Hammer = BFH in all company.
I like this approach. I will look into this too.