I'm needing to be pointed in the right direction on this old girl. I briefly documented my history with her in someone else's thread HERE: HeavyEquipmentForums Still not getting full pressure in any of the hoe cylinders. 3000 PSI gauge inserted in the loader valve port shows ~ 2000PSI when loader functions are used, anywhere from 900-~1400PSI on hoe functions depending on which one is activated. Loader runs strong and plenty fast, lifts a full bucket without any problems. All 7 hoe cylinders have just been rebuilt [ALL were in really bad shape with some packings torn and even missing-amazing that cylinders would move at all], the power beyond O-ring has been replaced, the O-rings and plunger have been replaced on the pressure relief valve on the loader control valve. Just replaced the 5/8" hoses to the boom cylinder as mechanic friend thought there could be an internal restriction [they were looking really ragged outside]. Made no appreciable difference. The curl seems to be the strongest cylinder. The boom will not lift a full bucket of dirt. While all cylinders now cycle thru their full ranges of motion, they all are down on power. Book specs say the hoe should have ~ 8900# breakout force and I'm pretty sure a bucket of dirt doesn't weigh even 1000# Probably spent 10 hours or so reading here and on another forum, replacing the power beyond port O-ring gained about 200 PSI but still not enough. Cleaned the screen in the loader pressure relief valve as some posters mentioned that-didn't find any crud in it. Hydraulic filter just replaced with WIX 1517, gauge runs in the green now,was red before. Pretty much all the fluid has been replaced in the course of repacking the cylinders. I do plan on replacing it all with Case fluid when it goes on sale in November unless you guys think it would be a waste of more $$$. Even after rebuilding all cylinders they all leak down somewhat within 1-2 minutes and there are drips from the hoe valve body. Does this mean worn/missing O-rings in all the spools? Is there such a thing as a complete valve body rebuild kit for these old hoes? Aftermarket would be great as Case seems WAAAY too proud of their parts. They quoted me $22- for an O-ring backup strip in the loader valve that should cost about $0.50 and over $30 for a spring in the same item [the old parts look fine but since I was in there I thought I'd replace them-NOT AT THOSE PRICES] I'm thinking my next step is to pull each pressure relief valve in the hoe valve body and look for crud/missing O-rings. I gather from other threads that Case OEM O-rings are the way to go-what say you guys? I hate to mess with detaching the hoe and removing/rebuilding the valve body right now since winter is approaching here in Montana and really would like to defer that until next year if there's another quicker, simpler place to look. It doesn't absolutely have to run at peak power but sure would like to be able to lift a few half-ton rocks before they freeze to the ground for five months. Anybody got some firsthand knowledge they care to share with an old guy with an old hoe? Thanks in advance-
Forgot to mention that the slots in the hoe control tower are plenty long for full valve activation in all directions as someone had posted in another thread that sometimes wear requires the slots to be lengthened-
Valve type depends on the backhoe serial number, but it appears they all have a backhoe main relief in either the inlet or outlet section. Start there. Pictures will help. Backhoe serial number, not the tractor. Cheers
Before you get to deep into valves and such , check the o ring on the power beyond sleeve, it is on the loader valve outlet fitting where the hose comes out that goes to the backhoe. Most times when there is a difference between hoe and loader pressure it is suspect. It is on the fitting that screws into he loader valve on the fitting toward the inside. Do not change any relief settings on the hoe valve till you have checked it, Case generally controlled all functions both hoe and loader at the loader relief so it should read the same whichever system you are operating.
OldPhart......I am restoring my 68 580CK, and one of my next steps is to rebuild the backhoe valve spool assembly.....it may be the same one that you rebuilt. Here is a pic: ' When you said that the filter was replaced, and that it had been operating in the "red" or "dirty" zone, that is throwing a red flag out.......Im wondering if dirt/trash went past the filter and is clogging up someplace. Did you remove the valve spool (pic above), and replace all the orings, and thoroughly clean it out? I have been ordering alot of stuff, including the orings, from Tractor Stuff in Indianna........prices are great, and Dale is very helpful in giving advice. The fact that the cylinders all leak-down some within a minute or two makes me wonder if maybe the seals/valves in the hand-control assembly may be leaking fluid back into the reservoir, even when they are not supposed to. Pic below: I have not rebuilt this, but I imagine there is a one-way valve that could be leaking in your case. Maybe this leak could also be lowering the pressure levels going to the backhoe cylinders?
If you look at the picture of the stack valve there, the left end that's resting on the table, that big hex is the backhoe main relief valve. Depending on serial number it may be in the other end block on your machine, probably on the top. I see you say that you have replaced the power beyond O-ring, and the loader relief gives you 2,000 psi, so I'm betting you need to start at the backhoe main relief and then work on from there. If you look closely you will also note that not all the valve sections have secondary relief valves, when you are checking pressures it's best to activate a valve section that does not have these work port reliefs so you know you're getting a reading on the main relief. I don't know what the book says, but your backhoe main relief should be 150 psi above or below the loader valve so they don't interact and cause oscillation in the system.
Lantraxo.....So, when I begin replacing all the small O-Rings, I should also open up this relief valve and just inspect and clean? Any precautions I should be aware of when opening it up? Thanks
I listed all the things I've previously tried in my original post, the power-beyond O-ring being one of the first things done which gave ~ 200PSI improvement in backhoe function pressures. As pretty much all the hoe hoses are just accidents waiting to happen and seeing as to how I did lay out and remove the hoe from the machine [some genius had welded the hoe to the tractor at some point, glad I wasn't the one who had to cut all that loose-but judging from the quality of other welds on the machine it may have merely fallen off], I'm currently in the process of changing ALL the hoses on the hoe valve body. It won't be nearly as easy to get to 'em ever again. Right now I've averaging about one hose removed for every 2 hours of labor. I doubt if any of them have been replaced within the past 25 years and the incredibly thick, tenacious layer of shmoo clinging to every single surface is way beyond anything I've ever had to contend with in all my years of wrenching on my own cars and trucks. It's pretty much like Shoe Goo on steroids. My 3000 PSI pressure washer has removed the thickest chunks now [by using the narrowest tip and cutting the crud away in small, brownie-like squares]. Repeated application of oven cleaner and brake cleaner really hasn't helped a whole lot. A lot of my time is spent freeing up the flare nuts on the tubings after I finally manage to find the magic combination of wrench, leverage and BFH to break a fitting loose without breaking metal, knuckles or rounding off the flats. A couple of the flares have only responded to a torch and sudden application of freezing spray.
Yep, I would unscrew the big hex and disassemble carefully, clean, replace and and all seals, then reassemble in exactly the reverse order.
1968 580CK-that pic looks a lot like my valve body except my big hoses to/from the loader valve connect to ports on the sides rather than on the front . I haven't rebuilt it yet, haven't even gotten to the point of being able to remove it. I'm hearing from the Case dealer that the O-rings are the only things I'll likely be able to get from him. Have you been able to source other internal parts like seals, springs etc. for your valve body from Tractor Source in Indiana? What I haven't run across yet is how to get each control valve apart once I have the whole valve body removed via the 3 bolts. At least some [maybe ALL] of my drips appear to be around control valve rods and I seem to recall seeing somewhere that there are O-rings on each of those rods internally. Maybe all will be revealed when I finally have the whole friggin' thing removed and cleaned up. The same retarded monkey-with-an-arcwelder that welded the hoe to the tractor also welded the hoe control tower onto the 1" thick top of the hoe frame so I can't access any of the relief valves on the valve body top without sprouting long, skinny proctologist-type fingers that can reach in there, so while I have this puppy out in the daylight I want to be certain to replace anything and everything that I possibly can 'cause I sure don't plan on ever doing THIS job again... I'm planning to tighten up all the threaded rods which actuate the valves so there's no slack there, remove and grease both the rods on which the swing pedals and the control levers pivot and add nylon or copper washers wherever possible to minimize play in the controls. I may even splurge and replace all the nails and baling wire which presently hold the parts together with new cotter pins-if I have any $$$ left at all after all this mucking about.
TYVM, lantraxco-I have a sneaking suspicion that THAT is where I'll find the major solution to the old girl's woes, but since I couldn't see any reasonable way to access that and hope for a quick fix without removing the hoe-now that she's off and laid out and I'm doing all the hoses it seems a waste not to pull the valve body and do EVERYTHING I possibly can so I won't ever have to mess with it again. At 64 it's not getting any easier to stand on my head, hold a dirty, greasy wrench true on the flats of a dirty fitting or nut, shine the flashlight correctly and swing a greasy hammer straight. Better believe that each and every one of these fittings is gonna get antiseize on the threads as it goes back together just in case, though...
Source for "cone washers" that hold the hoe to the tractor? I believe the correct part # on these is D30714. My friendly CASE dealer wants $77 and change for EACH of these. Some PO monkey welded the hoe to the tractor and pretty well trashed one of 'em, and they are both egged out at least 1/4". I can build up the bores with weld and then Dremel them down if necessary but an alternate source like from a different brand of tractor would be great. If I had a lathe I could make 'em for no more than $12 for the pair even paying retail for the stock, but I'd be happy to pay $40 for a pair in order to not have to mess around with the welding/grinding right now.
OldPhart.......Man, I know what your going thru as I recently removed the old hoe from the back of my 580CK. But at least no Sparky welded the pins to the tractor, but there were some other welds made in an attempt to strenghten the frame. After soaking for days with penetrating fluids, those huge nuts came off, and the pins came out, and the hoe came off without too much pain and suffering. Pics of the hoe off: This shows the upper control tower and the sheet metal is welded......I wish that Case had used alot of bolts instead of the weld. Pic of all the lines marked so I know how to put them back on......Note: I had plastic sandwich bags over the marked ends, and rubber bands holding them to keep the rain out. The sun caused the rubber bands to deteriorite and most of the baggies came loose. A couple got moisture on them and the perm. marker writings were disappearing. I got to them in time, and no rain went into the lines, but just a note not to use rubber bands, and also that Perm Markers are not "permanent". Important: When you unhook the backhoe, you must recconnect the hydraulic feed line back up to the front bucket control valves. If you fail to do this, and you start up the tractor, the hydraulic pump will blow, or something will blow. Fortunately, my 580 cranked and had so much pressure that the starter would not spin any more. I tried jump-starting, over-charging the battery, etc., but she still would not crank. Then I realized that the quick-disconnect hydraulic line needed to be connected back to the upper valve port. Then, the pressure was relieved, and she started right up. Fortunately no damage was done in my case. Back to some of your questions: 1. ORings......TractorStuff had them cheaper than anyplace else. I got an entire set to rebuild the Hoe, with some extra just in case for around $35. Ask for Dale (and ask him if Old Abe found his knutz yet....he will laugh). Im not sure about other internal parts, as I have not yet begun working on mine, and am hoping that the Orings will be all I need. 2. Control Valve......After taking the backhoe off, it was pretty easy removing the control valve....but that beast is heavy....a good 100 pounds, so have a sawhorse or truck tailgate or something ready to receive it. Im thinking that I can leave the entire assembly together and just work on the ends to replace each Oring. 3. Thats a good idea to add washers on those control tower rods.....I think I will do the same. 4. Yep, I had a couple nails instead of cotter pins too......its a good feeling to put the right size cotter pins back in where they belong. Hey.......I wont call the EPA and squeal on you regarding all the sludgeola being blasted off the old lady.....I have to admit that some of the ground under my rig wont be growing grass for some time....ha ha.
OldPhart.......Im not sure what you mean by the "cone washers". I could not find that part number in my parts book for the backhoe. Are you talking about the two large pins that hold the upper part of the backhoe to the tractor mounts? These suckers:
You lightly touched on the loader relief valve, saying it was clean but did you check the small orifice under the bronze screen? If this orifice (or screen) is plugged the main relief can stay open. If the orifice is not plugged the opening can be seen through the poppet when held up to a light. Cone washers are part # D30717 (4-req'd)
OM, he did say he was getting 2,000 psi on the loader functions, would that not indicate the loader main relief valve was functioning properly? Sounds a tad low to me but then I know nothing about CASE 530's. Past the loader relief valve, the power beyond sleeve and seals and then the backhoe main relief I would think would be the two main suspects?
You are correct 1950-2000 psi is what is expected at the loader valve, assuming it maintains under load. The backhoe loader relief on the 530CK is different than what is being shown in the pictures. It is located in the inlet section and contains two parts, relief at the top and regeneration check valve on the bottom. Final set pressure for the relief is 2250 - 2350 psi. Plenty of little parts in there to be checked. As far as o-rings on the valve spools, there is only one at the top. I replace mine with quad rings.
Nope, in my parts book the cone washers are shown on p74 as item #7 D30714 [used before backhoe s/n 4103251] mine is 4102884...they fit into cone-shaped depressions near the rear of the support arms [where the bolts welded onto the hoe body slide into the support arms] and are then secured with wrench/hammer T-nuts [p/n D31495]. The hoe is then prevented from sliding out the slots backward-
Yes, I'd run across a post of yours on YT mentioning the bronze screen and orifice in the main relief valve so that and the power-beyond O-ring were my first things checked.
OK, actually on your s/n both 30714 (lower) and 30717 (upper) are used. With your hoe pressures down make sure you check out the hose couplings. Your cylinder leak down rates are way to high for recent rebuilds. If the bucket boom and crowd cylinders leak down the worst it's probably worn out valve spools and bores leaking by.
OldPhart......Ok, we have slighltly different designs on our hook-ups. I looked in my Parts Book, and those part numbers are not listed. My hoe just mounts on the lower "hooks" of the arms, and then the large nuts way up high apply downward pressure so she cant bounce out of the arm hooks.
1968, that's looking REALLY nice there-mine is a '65 530CK so I have no cab and our backhoe attachment systems are totally different. I like your system MUCH better than the one they used on this one. I'm thinking I'll have to build up the "arm hook" portions with hardfacing in order to get rid of some of the slop and also build up the bores of the "cone nuts". The hoe still stays attached to the tractor but it works fore and aft probably an inch with every forward and back motion of the hoe, and that's with weak hydraulics-no telling what she'll do with full power...
Hmmmm.... Well, I finally got the valve body out of the sucker without scoring any flare fitting mating surfaces [yet]. You guys were right, it IS one heavy chunk of iron. Upon removing the big hex cap [D36805] on the bottom left end I believe I may have located the bulk of the problem: {PICTURE FORTHCOMING-I'm a techno-Luddite and have misplaced the cable from my digital camera to the computer-no wireless technology for me!** Should I just tell ya what I found or should I let everyone dangle in suspense until Sunday when I'll have time to hunt down the cable ?
Blown out O-rings?
I did notice when I unhooked the hoe that there was a pretty good flow of oil out of that q/d fitting. I took the male end apart and cleaned it out at that time but haven't yet fooled with the female end. The race into which the retaining ball bearings in the female fitting snap is somewhat pounded by those balls but it still works and doesn't leak so it's probably not getting a new one unless one shows up on eBay for $5.99... My 50 yr old Craftsman 6" bench vise is now tweaked from me beating and banging and using a 4' cheater pipe on the hoses and 90 deg hard lines coming off the valve body and I'm probably going to finish the poor thing off by trying to take that female fitting apart. I only have 1 set of big wrenches and need 2 of the same size for that fitting. My biggest Crescent wrench fits but I destroyed my custom-made one-end-flattened-to-accept-its-handle 5' cheater pipe while working elsewhere on the GHOB and I just haven't taken time to make another one yet. I just despise using pipe wrenches on anything other than pipes, makes me feel as though I'm working under a big ol' oak tree with a 1950's refrigerator filled with beer leaning against it, Kenny Rogers' "The Gambler" blaring from the 8-track and 5 hound dogs wandering around peeing on everything. [OK, I'll admit to having 3 Boston terriers who pee on everything and enjoying Kenny Rogers-but we have no oak trees here in NW Montana and I quit drinking beer 17 yrs ago]
What are quad rings, where do you find 'em and how do you cross-reference them to the Case part #'s?
Good guess-but that particular section of the valve body contains only one, and it's on the check valve on the opposite [top] end...
Case sells a handy heavy duty crow foot wrench, 1/2" drive for the hydraulic line nuts. Check those hose couplings closely. If the balls and ball groove are beat up they won't engage enough to open the internal valves. "Quad rings" are o-rings with four corners/ridges. Doubles the sealing edges. I purchase mine from McMaster but there are on line sources that sell small quantities. I don't have a cross over list for Case, had to go by dimensions. Now that I posted the parts breakdown I see that s/n 4102884 is yet a different arrangement.
TY for quad ring info. Balls looked fine in a quick inspection, the race had a few shallow ball imprints. I don't recall which hose has the male and which has the female ends just now. Tractor and loader have worked fine with both ends connected to the loader valve but maybe the flow demands of the loader aren't nearly what the boom cylinders require? The problem wasn't in getting the flare nuts off the valve body, it was in separating the hard lines from the hoses themselves. Those hoses had been on there so long [many of them evidently installed by Godzilla wielding a 36" pipe wrench and overly enamored of red locktite] that I really thought I would just have to trash some of the hard lines and have new ones made...even heating wasn't enough to remove a couple of 'em, I had to heat and then quickfreeze the male ends before they would FINALLY release. BTW-I discovered [maybe it's already well known] that computer-duster-in-a-can makes a really good and relatively cheap freeze spray as long as you don't breathe the resulting vapors.
Oldphart......yep, thats alot of movement back n forth.....so building it up is a great idea. Im just curious if a used tractor place might have some good used ones to replace yours. Probably would be a remote chance, but if you happen to call Dale at Tractor Stuff about the Orings or something else, you may ask if he has any old 530s in his yard. He has been pulling parts off some old 580CKs that he has, and he even made a new floor pan (covers the battery area) and it looks almost exactly like the original.
Oldphart......My wild guess is that the spring inside was broken. I hope to see the pic in a few days........Good things come to those who wait. However, weight broke the wagon down.
OldPhart......I was surprised that my quick disconnects were fine, after soaking in some WD49 for a few days. However, since I was getting new hoses, I went ahead and had them put the new quick disconnects on. Those suckers were about $30 bucks apiece. I agree.....the thought of using a pipe wrench on any of the hydraulic areas is like finger nails on a chalk board, at least for me. I ordered an entire set of crows feet on ebay for around $60, and it sucked that I had the quality Case ones laying around but could not find them. A large size adjustable wrench comes in handy also.....even the Harbor Freight El-Cheapos. Is that 1950's frig under the oak tree a propane or electric model? Im betting that Jethro had a rusting old propane cylinder laying on the muddy ground beside the Blue-Tick Hound's leaking dog house, and that gas frig had those Pabst Blue Ribbons ice cold. Jethro guzzles down one, tosses it over at the dog (trained to attack some of the time), and peeled another pull-tab off the next PBR, took a hefty gulp, and wiped the sloth off his chin with his greasy striped coveralls. Keeny Rodgers is stuck replaying, "You gotta know when to hold them, know when to fold them", so Jethro walks over to the '54 with a smashed in door, and gives the 8 trac a good bang with his fist, and ole Kenny proceeds to sing the rest of his story. The picture fades away as the ole hound dog has his rear leg raised on the flat rear tire and was doing his best to make sure the lug nuts would rust in place.
Old Magnet.....I had to google "quad oring", and now I can see what it is.....kinda an "X" shape if you look at a cross-section of the oring. So, you actually have 4 sealing surfaces instead of one large one.
Not realy, although the cross section shows four lobes you only get two sealing rings.
LOL-I think it's a kerosene fridge...
Well, crud- The digital camera cable has evidently burrowed into the darkest recesses of the "dog room" wherein lies all my extra electronics-related plunder...I apologize for no pictures after I promised such, I WILL unearth it this week somehow. 1968Case580CK hit it on the head-it was a spring, or rather the remains of one in at least 7 separate pieces. Naturally CASE has retired the part # [D36600] and I can't seem to find a stock one anywhere on the Internet so spent a few hours this afternoon researching springs and learned all sorts of stuff I somehow haven't had occasion to know about before. After fitting the pieces together as close to their original shape as possible I've deduced that it was about 3.50" long, 0.93" OD, 0.57" ID with a wire diameter of .188". You would think that, armed with that info, it would be a simple matter to go to Grainger or MSCdirect, plug in the numbers and a stock spring reasonably close would pop up. Tain't so...seems that the vast majority of stock springs anywhere close to that OD are actually 1" or 25mm-which is 0.04- 0.05" too large to fit [without drilling it oversize] in the large hex cap [D36805] on the bottom on the L side of the valve body [D36122]. Several of the spring outfits have a minimum order of around $90 which I'd probably be willing to pay if they had a closely matching spring, but they don't. The cheapest price I found on a one-off custom-wound spring was $250 with a 3 week lead time. All is not yet lost, however. I found an outfit in Wilder, KY-W.B. Jones Co.- which has only a $25 minimum order and which stocks a nearly perfect-sounding replacement for the grand sum of $8.32 apiece. I'll be calling them tomorrow [today now, actually]. Talk about an answer to prayer!
Does your 530 have the model 32 backhoe on it ? The reason I ask is because the part numbers you posted don't show up in the #32 parts book. D26832 is what I see for the spring.
oldpfart.......I hear you about the hard time your having finding a spring. I have a Ford tractor which has small springs pushing against balls that hold the tranny gears in place, and lost one, and just needed a spring about the size of an ink pen spring. Ford wanted about $50 for it, so I managed to get a box of springs from harbor frt for $4, and found one that was pretty close.........it works. Seems like maybe you could use one a bit smaller in dia, and maybe add a flat washer to make sure it compresses/contacts where it needs to. Hope the $8 one works. Good luck. Hey, maybe that listing propane frig might have one tucked away in its innerds someplace.
Try the CAT dealer, they have a system called "Similar parts" where you enter as many dimensions/specs as you think are needed and the chart will print out anything in their system that's close. Start a little under on diameters so you get the whole range.
Don't know if this will help but might be an additional route. The valves used on the #32 hoe were originally built by Commercial Shearing. Your model precedes mine but may use the same spring. Commercial Shearings model # for the D36122 I have is a C20-19. Good luck with the hunt.
My hoe is definitely a Model 32, ser# 4102884 and my parts book [missing the cover so I dunno what it called itself but it was issued in August 1965] shows a D36122 valve [my valve has a plate on it with that part number] and those part #'s are listed in the D36122 section on pages 118-125 . In looking up in the index that # you give I find it on page 125D under the heading "32-S backhoe valve D36658"...and it's shown as being for the stabilizer valve section NOT the "outlet" or regen section which is what I'm talking about here...and the spring in this section is still shown as a D36600 on page 125D...
Mine is the same mfg and also a C20-19. I didn't have any luck finding a source for OEM parts for Commercial Shearing either but I quit looking after I located the spring company in KY. Spoke with Dale @ tractorstuff today and he's working up an estimate for me for all the O-rings and seals. Said Case NLA'ed the springs a few years back. He did mention he has a few 530CK's with Model 32 hoes in his salvage yard so if I find something major broken/missing at least there is that option to fall back on even if shipping is fiendishly expensive these days. Thank you for the thought, OldMagnet-I'm sure I'll come up with plenty more puzzles that the guys like you who have lived with and worked on these old beasts for years will have some answers to.
That's a great option, lantraxco-thank you. If my replacement doesn't pan out I'll give that a whirl. The local Triple-W/Deere dealer had what sounds like a similar thing. He printed out a long list of springs in their database but wasn't able to sort the columns for diameter, spring rate etc. Only one that looked faintly close was ~$80 with shipping and I would have had to cut/grind flat end to make it work.
I see you may have a replacement on the way, but either of these anywhere close? https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0166721?term=spring&r=~|categoryl1:%22600206%20Hardware%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22608834%20Spring%20Products%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22603089%20Compression%20Springs%22|~%20~|sattr01:^0.906%22$|~%20~|sattr01:^0.928%22$|~%20~|sattr01:^0.938%22$|~%20~|sattr02:^0.148%22$|~ https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0345117?term=spring&r=~|categoryl1:%22601071%20Cutting%20Tools%209and%20Metalworking%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22601114%20Tooling%20Components%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22601113%20Die%20Springs%22|~%20~|sattr05:^3/4%22$|~%20~|attrlength:1690|~
[/QUOTE]Seems like maybe you could use one a bit smaller in dia, and maybe add a flat washer to make sure it compresses/contacts where it needs to. Hope the $8 one works. Good luck. Hey, maybe that listing propane frig might have one tucked away in its innerds someplace.[/QUOTE] Seems that the main problem with finding a workable substitute is the fact this thing has that pesky 0.55" end of the spool sticking out for about an inch so the spring has to have a large enough I.D. to go over that yet still fit in the ~ 0.95" hex cap. All the Grainger/MSCdirect ones were either under or over the calculated [from the wire diameter of the pieces/estimated overall length/# of coils/spacing/ID/OD] spring rate of the original by 50% or more. This one from KY looks to be within 7% of those specs. We shall see...
Thank you very much for the research, lantraxco-I do appreciate it very much! Unfortunately the first one is waaay underpowered [wire dia .148 vs .188, spring rate 107#/in vs ~ 400 original] and the 2nd one the I.D. is too small to fit over the end of the spool. I had gone to the local Fastenal here in Kalispell and the sweet young thing holding down the fort really didn't have a clue what she was doing. I know next to nothing but I was a walking encyclopedia of spring knowledge compared with her. It never occurred to me to check their website for myself once I got home, I guess I just assumed that they couldn't have anything if their gal Friday couldn't locate it...my bad-
Did you try "Knight Hawk Supply" in Mo.? Never did any business with them but at one time they had stuff for Commercial Shearing.
Take a look at page #2 - section #110 and #118 in this link maybe it will help. http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr51329ag4306349
Well, when I look at the D36122 valve on the Case link you sent the spring # is STILL D36600 and the big hex cap is STILL D36805...I dunno why you think the #'s are somehow incorrect. I can only conclude that you've missed that this is NOT a 32-S hoe, it's a 32 and that it's a D36122 valve not a D30776 or that we're discussing the outlet valve section not the stabilizer section...
TYVM for that lead, OldMagnet-if the spring I ordered turns out to be unsatisfactory I'll definitely give 'em a call-found their phone #, don't seem to have a website-
I checked the Fastenal site last nite for fun and they just don't have anything in the ballpark strength-wise in the spring listings I found so I guess I may owe the "sweet young thing" with the nose ring at the local Fastenal store an apology for insinuating that she knows nothing-although she wasn't able to come up with even the too-weak ones that are dimensionally close.
Oh, I know which valve your are discussing and I also know which valve body it is. You were right, I made the mistake of looking at the stabilizer section and I apologize for that and adding confusion to the subject. As a result of that I will withdraw form making any more comments in this thread.
HI OldPhart, I am in the same boat now, i know this is an old thread but im hoping you remember where you got that spring and also the quad rings for the stack to stack sealing? thank you Alex