Hi all, I just got this 580CK and have a bunch of questions... The motor was recently rebuilt so I'm told tho I'm not 100% sure. I can tell the head has been rebuilt and the injectors have been refurbished and or replaced. The injector pump was rebuilt as well. This thing start and runs like a top.. Now the down side I have a lot of leaking hoses and a few cylinders that need to be rebuilt. The first one i need to fix (the worst leak) is the main ram This cylinder is not leaking from the ram(chrome part) but from the gland nut (think that's what its called) it looks like the wiper on the ram was replaced. I'm wondering how it can be leaking from this spot? I have looked how to rebuild a cylinder but i haven't seen this part in those posts. I know i can beg or borrow the tools to fix it but i need to know what to order. Another problem is this ram was replaced with a 3" instead of the 2" standard for these backhoes due to the Eye breaking off?? Thanks in advance
That cylinder you have leaking is the dipper cylinder. You will need a special tool to loosen the gland nut. This thread has some info - HeavyEquipmentForums There is tons of useful info here in older threads, use the search feature to find what you are looking for - HeavyEquipmentForums Some threads will lead to other useful ones. You need to replace the oring & back up ring only, by the looks.
Thanks Alrman!! I had tried the search but didnt find what i was looking for. The one you linked 2nd is exactly what i was looking for.
more ???'s If i recall there should be a screw or a bolt holding the gland nut from unscrewing is that correct? I didn't see one on there anywhere? Or is this a different type of cylinder? Also another question If I were to remove any of these hoses that are leaking will fluid keep pouring out or will the Valves keep that from happening?
The screw may have been left out from a previous repair, as the holes sometimes don't line up when tightening the gland nut. Personally I don't like them as I have had more than a few shear off during removal over the years. Then they need drilling out etc...... When removing hoses, ALWAYS be certain the hoe or loader is properly neutralized with the engine off. Be sure there is no pressure in the circuit, as whatever the oil is holding up, will fall & cover you in oil. Depending on what you are removing, oil may stop after a few seconds or may continue to leak for quite some time. It is a good idea to fit caps & plugs to fittings as hoses are removed to prevent both oil loss & contamination by dirt & water. These can be purchased or fabricated by cutting off ends of old or blown hoses & welding them up.
I agree alrman, if you're going to own and operate an older machine like that, aged hoses can pop at any moment, good to keep the necessary plugs/caps for hose replacement.
OK cool thank you.
freedom6178. the gland nut wrench you need is 130.00 at the dealer or go on ebay to item #221063768909 for $55.00 .ibought one myself trevor b
A tool to unscrew the gland is not that hard to make. I rebuilt almost all the cylinders on my machine and made all the tools to unscrew the glands. I will try to post pictures this weekend, if I can figure it out.
I also made a couple of gland nut wrenches. I stopped doing that after I found a real nice adjustable one on the internet for less than $ 40.00. It is a CTA # 8605.
Check out this site http://paceperformance.com/i-5927148-cta8605-adjustable-gland-nut-wrench-2-to-6.html
You really know how to discourage someone from having fun. I think I will look for that wrench, I have had enough fun.
Just to clarify the price I paid, the wrench was less than $40.00 including shipping and no taxes. It is on Amazon.com. OTC sells replacement pins for it and they fit perfectly.
Tinkerer I did buy that wrench this week. Will try it this weekend. Looks sturdy enough 3/4 drive too. Thanks will let you know how it works out.
I have another quick question. Does any one know about what size the oring should be for the gland i have pictured thats the outer one there. The cyclinder its self is 3". Thankks in advance.
I don't know the size. There will be a new one included with the new seal kit.
That gland will have the part #of the cylinder stamped in it and you can order a kit or parts to it easy that way. That is a nice thing Case does with their cylinders,very helpful in identifying them. We can help with any parts you may need [email protected]
Welcome to the Forums Dr. Dozer. If you would please take the time, scroll through the Forum rules and familiarize yourself with the site rules. One specifically about advertising - From the RULES Page This includes using email links to facilitate the sales of product or services. Your first post is your "freebie". If you are interested in becoming a sponsor and help support the HEF community, please contact the site founder Steve Frazier. Thank you for you cooperation.
Dr. Dozer ; I have a Case T/L/B and none of the glands are stamped on any of the hydraulic cylinders. I have an original printed version of the parts book and it shows that they should be stamped. It would sure help if they were.
Most of the ones I have seen are,what part # does your book show? G32607 or D27751? If so then it should be D27382 back up ring and 87421147 O-ring
Many of the older Case units the glands are not stamped, but have a 'identifying ring' cut in the end of the gland. Almost all of the cylinders on my 580B are like this. They are two piece pistons and can be looked up in the parts books. Dave
please give me the link or e-mail to sponsor on here. I tried yesterday but got no response so I am assuming I e-mailed the wrong address. I didn't mean to break any rules and would be glad to sponsor correctly.
Sorry for not replying for so long the tractor is about 3.5 hours away. Where would the the number be stamped? As i recall there are a few different numbers stamped on the casing of the ram at the gland end. Some numbers are stamped deep some others are running the other direction but almost hidden under who knows how many layers of paint. I'd love to just pull the cylinder out with the gland and take it some where but i don't know where i could take it and if i could lift that out by myself. Thanks again for your suggestions and Information..
If the number is stamped in it ,it will probably begin with a D or G and then a series of numbers. If you can,t find it give me the if you can find the model of your hoe attachment on the serial tag and give me your fax I would be glad to fax you a parts breakdown with numbers of it
Hi again sorry for the long delay between posts, The problem with this cylinder is it is a replacement from 2" to 3" and is not OEM. The guy i bought it from said it was common for the end of the 2" to break off so he had it replaced with a 3" :beatsme ? I'll see if i can find more info this weekend. Thanks and again sorry for the delay.
If you can't find a part number on the cylinder, you will need to strip it down & take all the seals to a hydraulic seal supply or repair shop & they will match them up for you. Just be certain of your rod diameter & cylinder internal diameter.
Hello ,i dont want to break up your fun but i have learned the hard way that a good hydraulic shop will reseal and pressure check cylinders for about what a dealers kit cost is even if you have the tools and get the right kit the first time,
OK here is the number stamped at the bottom of the cylinder itself DK10075. I have a photo on my phone I'll upload later. I saw no numbers on the Gland-nut it's self. the model number of the hoe is 4139673. Thank you for the reply's.