Help! We recently acquired an old (er) Detroit Diesel engine and are trying to get more info about it. The model number is '671RC40H' and the serial is '67190342'. WE think it may have been built in 1961 (from the serial number), but aren't sure. It currently has a PTO attached to it (model 'PTA114144'), but we don't know much else. Any help would be appreciated!
It is a inline 6 cylinder, 2 stroke engine. It has 71 cubic inches per cylinder and in stock configuration should put out 238 HP. And by the way, it produces above average noise to put it mildy. A very common engine in its day they were used on dozens of different machines running the gauntlet from twin setups on marine pumps to engines in semi tractors. First time you run it at 2100 RPM you will think it will blow into a million pieces because of the noise but thats the way they run. Commonly called a Screaming Jimmy. Edit: More info. Could be either right or left hand rotation, pump and blowercould be on either side of the engine, many options were available as they like other Detroits are a modular engine.
And they don't like 15W/40 diesel oil, they'll consume oil and smoke like crazy with that oil. For best performance and long life they require straight SAE 40 motor oil with sulphated ash content of 1.0% or less, the less the better. Chevron Delo 100 is the best choice, but there are other SAE 40 oils out there that meet the specs. Delo 400 does not meet specs.
Be sure the fuel racks are free to move before starting. They can easily get stuck in the full fuel position on an old neglected engine and go full fuel until engine destruction. Make sure the shutoff solenoid/lever is working. Have an alternative sturdy means of stopping the engine (block of wood?) by closing off air flow when starting and have somebody there with it ready to go if it starts to take off.
Metal clip boards work well, as long as you have an open flat faced intake ready to choke off. I did in fact have an injector seize in the first couple minutes of running after a couple years storage, a 6-71 in an old International cabover single axle tractor I owned. Revved up just fine after firing on just a hint of ether, the injector stuck, the rack stayed with it, and the rpm's just kept climbing. Judicious use of the emergency stop cable and the application of fourth gear and clutch put the fire out. One reman injector and all was well, sold it the next day with a warning.. last I heard it was humming away in a bulldozer retired to a farm. Good thing I was slowly running her up, or it might have been an interesting day at Black Rock. The emergency air shutoffs don't always.
And don't get a finger in-between the clip board and the intake. I'd be tempted, if you have not heard it run, to remove the valve cover and make sure the rack works nice and free. The rack is that long about 1 inch diameter tube with the arms hanging down that pulls the injector rods in and out. And even if it seems nice and free be careful as an injector can work free at first then stick in full fuel position. There should be a flapper in the housing bolted to the top of the blower with a catch that when pulled lets the flapper choke off the intake air. I'd make sure this works free, both opening and closing. We had some less than intelligent couple people destroy a recently rebuilt 6-53 by trying to start it with the flapper tripped. When it would only fire a couple times then keep cranking they decided it needed a shot of starting fluid, then more and more and more. Then they tried to blame the guy who rebuilt the engine for it failing! Any chance of a couple pictures of this engine? Also what do you have planned for it? Would be a good alarm clock if you have any neighbors you don't like! Actually I don't think they sound that loud just a different kind of music!
Wow! Thanks everyone! Great info and love the helpful safety tips! No plans for it yet, but I think we're just going to try to find a good home for it. We actually impounded the trailer it was mounted to and wound up being married to it. We're just in the initial stages of trying to understand what it is we have and who can make the best use of it. We'd really love to get her to fire up, but have yet to even put a wrench to the crank and see if she even turns over....
There are 8 configurations for Detroits 4 left and 4 right turning. The RC means it is a right hand engine with the idler gear on the right side if you are looking at the rear of the engine with the flywheel housing removed. The engine HP is determined by injector size which can be anywhere from 55 mm to 90 mm in rare military applications. Normal is a 65 mm. Setting the rack is easy, but takes a bit to get the hang of it. Put a strap on the throttle to hold the engine in full fuel. Make sure the pin from the rack to the governor is free. Tighten #1 injector until the rod rolls up and stop. Do #2 the same way, but if you over do it, it will over-ride #1 so you have to make sure there is balance and both injector rods are rolled up. Repeat down the line. Always check to make sure that all injectors are in the rolled up position. You will need a .0015 feeler blade to set the governor gap for automotive applications or a .004 gauge for stationary set ups. Use Delo. GM and Standard Oil worked together to come up with this and it is what works best. Good luck, these are great old engines.
In your search for a home , check with some boat owners. They were used heavily in boats because rotation was easily changed.