Bought a 68 580ck a few weeks back. First thing I am rebuilding is the injection pump. Roosamaster DBGFCC431-30AJ. I have pulled it apart to clean it and it definitely had water in it. Bought a used housing. I ordered a seal kit, new rollers and shoes and a 1 piece weight retainer. Also had to get new transfer pump blades and liner as the liner was pitted and the blades were disintegrated. I pulled the set screw, spring and delivery valve stop out but either the delivery valve is stuck in there or there is no delivery valve. Do all of them have a delivery valve? 2nd question, Looking in the hole that goes in the side of the pump head close to the metering valve hole I can see what i believe to be one of the bleed wires. There is definitely crud in there I can't blow out and I am not sure but the wire looks rusty. Are the setscrews loctited in for the bleed wires? If so, how do you get them out? Heat? Dynamite? Or should I be replacing the whole pump head?
YIKES!!! I’ve been repairing heavy equipment for almost 40 years and have never done what your doing. I have to have mine professionally rebuilt.........too many things have to be perfect and I like mine calibrated before they go back on the engine. Good luck with that!!
I am a machinist now and Have been working on everything from engines to cnc electronics for a long time. I am not afraid to try to repair pretty much anything. Someone else built it so I feel I can rebuild it. Once I get it back together if I have a question on it's operation I will take it to a shop and have it tested. The engine has to be rebuilt too on this tractor as it had water in it that pitted the liners so this won't be a quick project
Eric Some more detailed "DB" Roosa Master pump material to review & follow.... Link to DB Roosa Master IP Service Manual https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QICQG0Nz6NuURSVR2F3uvTnRn_zT7r3B Link to bristol screw bit and bushing (the correct tool to remove timing screw/less likely to break the screw off) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rCp8BcpT-vAsizxeVIrQpN9BnXwgYwpY/view
You only need one 'meltdown ' to appreciate the work that a pump house provides. While I admire the 'I can do it ' position, we don't have all the special gee-gaws, doo-dads and calibrated whachamahoozies. Best of luck to you .
Thank s for the info. I may not have all the special doo-dads but I believe I am savvy enough to know whether it is running poorly enough to cause a meltdown. I have built and tuned many an engine. From 2-stroke screamers to a pontiac 455 that put out over 450 hp. I enjoy a new type of engine to learn and understand. I hope to keep learning from this vast pool of knowledge and I thank all of you guys willing to share. Hopefully someday I will have something to share with others
If u got it down so far to get the head assembly out (changing the weight retainer) u shoulda saw the head plugs that r holding the vent wires..(2) Did u transfer the timing line off the old “basket”.?? There r several items that have to b put together in the correct rotation.. read the manuals.. WHY did u buy a used housing.?? Yes, that mdl has a DV.. If u send me a prvt msg w your home email, I’ll send u a surprise..
I did see the head plugs holding the vent wires. They have red around them making me think they are loctited in , that and the first one I tried to move wouldn't. I have transferred the timing mark to the new one piece weight basket. I bought a new used housing because the original was blown out presumably from ice on the automatic advance lower plug area.
I sure hope that's plastic shavings from cnc and not ice crystals on your bench.....I've had some crystals accumulate before but that's a little extreme......
Yeah those are plastic shavings from the machining center. I machine tons of plastic. It helps to have your own machines when working on old junk. You never know when you might have to make a new part
I have the DBGFCC431--30AJ pump and only found 1 wire under the plugs in the head. I did not take that particular part out but the person who did believes it came out of the hole labeled #2 in this photo. I see within these posts that there are possibly 2 wires? The hole #3 is to shallow to accept the wire so it seems that the only possibility is #1 or #2. With some assistance I can see to the bottom of both #1 and #2 and they are super clean, should i further examine #3 for a wire? Also, is there a way to decode the pump DBGFCC431--30AJ. Some parts make sense CC= counter clockwise, I understand the 4 is for the # of cylinders, but the rest baffles me. Thanks
There are 2 wires..1 is the actual vent (short) wire & goes in first..and the other is a keeper..long, sits on top. They go in the small hole, closest to the edge of the head, inline w the mv hole.. What purpose does decoding the mdl number serve?? Don’t over think this..
Hey, thanks for getting back with me on this. This is the first time I have done a diesel pump, so it is a new thing for me. I can only find one wire, 3/32 diameter and 1 5/8 inch long. The tractor has run for years, and when my dad passed just over a year ago I ended up with it and it stopped running. It did sit for about a year and a half and the pump was all gummed up, plungers completely stuck and the plastic ring on the weight wheel was completely gone. I will look for that second wire, I checked with him and he said only one wire came out of what I am calling #2 hole. About the model number, it was just a curiosity, so many names and models. I see the DB2 all over the place but not so much the one I have. Thanks again for the help.
If the vent wire is stuck, there’s a special tool to get it out.. It gets stuck due to it being gummed up or lodged in its hole from old flex ring.. That’s why I frown on diy pump rebuilds.. there’s a bunch of special tools needed to do a proper job..
Yes, tons of tools specifically for these diesel pumps. I was told that the tool for the second segment of the vent wire was "useless", their words not mine. I just used a small red straw like in the photo and it pulled it right out. I have some ideas to use on installing the umbrella seals on the shaft when it comes time
I use that tool DAILY..
I guess individual results may vary lol. What was your suggestion for sealing the vent wire plugs?
Ancient Chinese secret.. It’s your rebuild, it’s your choice..
There are actually (2) tools for the Umbrella seals. After you install the pump keep an Eagle eye on your oil level. If the umbrella seals roll or just don't seal right your oil level will rise indicating you are filling the base with diesel... NOT GOOD. You can also have fuel bypass faulty seals with the engine not running so you need to check the oil level before starting every time. I have one I have replaced the seals a few times on because after it was parked for a couple weeks the level on the dipstick was half way up the stick
Excellent advice. I had read that I believe within this forum. I have been pretty well accepted in this forum, but have had some that believe I think have stepped on their toes, that I should not be doing this because I am not a diesel mechanic. They have forgotten where they once started sadly and clam up when looked up to for their knowledge but are reluctant to share advice. I appreciate you offering your knowledge. The few have forgotten that THEY will not be harmed in any way if the "non diesel mechanic/DIYer screws up their own pump lol. But again, a majority have been very helpful and accepting of my diesel pump ignorance. i have built hundred of 1000+ hp gasoline engines over my 55 years with 1 failure, not due to my methods or procedure, but due to a failed part, so I can learn how to do diesel pumps with my mechanical background.
When you rebuilt said leaky pump did you replace the pilot tube as well? If the old tube is hogged out new seals aren't gonna help much.
Yes, I actually have it sitting right in front of me, I got it delivered yesterday. I have measured the "stick out" with a caliper and will use Armstrong two part epoxy per Stanadyne's recommendation. However, a few very long standing pump houses here in my town have suggested pretty much a really good heat/fuel resistant will do just as well if done correctly. The old one does have a groove about midway down so that's what prompted me to replace it even more. That groove measured about .010 using a dial bore gauge, otherwise it was perfectly concentric and smooth. Thanks for the advice, I truly appreciate it.
Something else that I am going to have to tackle is the actual fuel tank, I am sure it has a ton of crud in it, so I am going to use an external tank with brand new fuel to supply fuel to the pump. I will obviously be placing all new filters even with the external tank, but need to move it rather quickly because the property that the tractor is currently on is being sold. I will search the forum for threads on this at some point.
mjk, I appreciate your diligence and attention to detail for a quality rebuild, but my earlier post was directed towards Eric, quoting his post. Good luck with yours.