The machine will move forward and reverse but when you try to stop one track and make the other track turn it will not pull machine around.I have heard it was in pilot valve system.Any help will be apprecited. Thank's steve931:beatsme:usa
Hello Steve, new member here, just curious if you sorted out your drive problems?
If you aren't interested in spending the money in getting it fixed, you can always sit your bucket on the ground, put some pressure on it and then swing and move one side to turn. The Cheap way of Doing it!
Id check the case drain on the swivel. By swivel i mean the joint in the base of the machine that the lines go through tot he tracks etc. Id bet the seals are gone in the swivel and the oil is bypassing to case drain when you depress only one pedal.
690B J. Deere Track Loader Won't Steer Steve, I feel for you, I just bought a used E120B Cat Excavator. It goes forward and reverse (straight) but labors to turn left or right. The tracks will respond independantly on level frosen grass. I'm looking into it now, thinking the hydraulic motors are just tired.
I agree with ben46a. The swivel is the most over looked component. For the cost of a set of seals I would put them in and see what happens.
We have had 4 or 5 of those machines and they new did steer in the dirt with lifting the machine up with the bucket.
This is a problem that alot of excavaters have to a degree.I see on alot of job site's operators picking up the front end to turn when in soft or loose dirt.I do it with mine.on a hard surface the machine turns fine.Excavater's dont have the torque of a dozer.The 690b could have weak pump or final motor,control valve bypassing,the swing manifold is also suspect.The only way to know is to check the pressure.
The B series Cat is a fairly aged machine, I've had to replace rotary joint swivel seals on the 70B, 110B, and the 120B. All having the same problem; hard to steer and weak drive power. I think I'd apply this to all the excavator posts here as well. Before I dig into pumps or drive motors I would re-seal the swivel. It's not easy to troubleshoot this by checking pressure simply because if you put the machine in a condition to stall the motors and check pressure, a low pressure reading is inconclusive. You can determine if the pumps are good by checking other boom functions that have cylinders that "dead out". The drive is different. A low pressure reading can be motors or swivel. That's why I go after swivel first. Even if that wasn't the problem, at least that's one more component you now have in good shape on your machine.
You can check the pressure ahead of the swing manifold,which would rule it out.Did you get alot of snow in Tennesse ATCOEQUIP?
Ah, just a little here and there, no large amounts here in the valley. But we sure got the dang cold this year! It's going to be in the teens again tonight. I'm ready for warm weather. Oh yeah, you guys had it rougher this year. Our shop is right on I-75 heading north out of Knoxville. When that ice storm blasted you guys, I watched tons of Electric line service trucks heading your way to get to work on the downed lines. Man it's a sight to see so many trucks heading in one direction to help in times of trouble. God love America. :usa
Yea. I think most of us felt old man winter's grasp this year ,I am looking forward to spring!
I want to thank you guys on your imput and advice on this steering problem. I replaced the seals in the rotary joint-the machine turns on a dime and gives me 9 cents change. What an improvment for for two hundred dollars worth of parts and two days of labor. THANKS AGAIN
Excellent! Man I wish everything was that easy to fix.
WOW :scool!!! ATCO is a great guy to have around we took our old 690 to the dealership and they always told us (you need to rebuild the trackmotors or the hydrolic pump is weak).
Digging up an old post here. I've got the same machine that I just picked up and I noticed the same thing - weak drive power, lack of steering, etc. I'm waiting on a tech manual for it. In the meantime, how do I go about replacing the rotary joint swivel seals? In the picture below, are we talking about 1, 2B, and 13?
Well, bigkylewhite, welcome to the forum. We don't mind you diggin' up old threads, long as it helps you out. You've got 4 posts in now, you can start your own threads. When you say you have the same machine, I assume you mean you have a B series Cat? Post some pics of it. And yes, you seem to have picked out the correct parts, except for maybe 2A/2B, maybe a serial number difference. The rotary joint isn't too hard to do, make sure you clean all the parts good before re-assembly. And most rotary joints have o-ring boss fittings, if yours does take the time to replace the o-rings on these fittings while you have it off.
It's a JD 690B. Haven't found the serial # yet so I'm not sure of the year. Another dumb question...I've got the machine off site right now and can't get to it until tomorrow and the new information has me itching to dig into it. Does the rotary joint go through the center of the swivel and, if so, do you drop it out the bottom of the machine?
OK, Deere 690, pretty much the same thing. Rotary Joint, hyd swivel, just different names for same part. Yes, most of them drop out the bottom of the machine. Just looking at the diagram, looks like a two man job, I'm thinking #4 - #6 is the bolts/nuts that hold it in place, that's going to take someone on top and bottom. Also looks like #8 & 9 might be for the housing retainer. First thing you do, obviously, is set the boom/bucket at rest, then loosen you hyd tank cap to relieve the tank pressure. Take a center punch and mark each hose connection at the swivel. First hose, put a punch dot on the hose fitting nut and a dot on the swivel fitting that the hose connects to. Next hose, put two dots, and so on. Most swivels have different size hoses, and the hoses have memory, so that helps in identifying where the hoses re-connect, but punch marks take all the guess work out of it. It's nice if you have plugs for all the hoses you take loose. If not, try and bend them up to an elevation higher than the hyd tank and they'll stop leaking oil, might have to tie them up with a rope or something. I've seen some swivels that have a rubber boot seal at the bottom of it that require removing all the swivel fittings to remove the boot and drop the swivel out. If you have to do yours that way, remember to punch mark the housing with a dot that you put on the fitting. Before you remove the bolts and nuts that hold it in place, you need to connect some type of support to the top of it. A heafty rope, come-a-long, crane, something. The last thing you want to do is drop it on your bud under the machine working the nuts/bolts, he's already going to be cussin' with drips of oil landing on his head, don't need a swivel knot on the head. :Banghead After you got it all loose, lower it to terra ferma and proceed with disassembly. Make sure you replace every seal on it, even fittings/plugs that have o-ring boss fittings. And I think Deere used a lot of flat face o-ring fittings instead of JIC flare. If you take a hose off and see an o-ring on the fitting, that's flat face fittings, replace all those o-rings.
Great advice as always from ATCO, and I'd really stress marking your hoses correctly!!
great thread!!!!