My old Dodge has this ol 230 in it and I was replacing the crossover tubes between the 1-2 heads and I want to adjust the valves and injectors but I don't know whether to use the inner base circle or the outer base circle method. Can someone lead me in the right direction,thanks
Either method will work. The outer base circle method 75 in-lb on the injectors and intakes are .014" and exhaust .027" Inner base circle method injectors are .170" dial indicator and intake valves are .011" and exhausts are .023"
I'm a little ashamed to ask this,but how do I tell if I'm on the right stroke to adjust everything with the torque method?
Roll the engine until the mark on the accessory drive lines up with the pointer on the cover. The injector on the cylinder to be adjusted will be compressed and both valves should have lash.
Scroll down about halfway, for the nh engine as well HeavyEquipmentForums
Alwasy start at B or 2-5VS as will run all the one end cylinders then swap to the other end of the boxes. Made it less confusing when showed others how to run a OH.
That's a good way hands on but trying to explain on here is confusing. Better to just roll through starting at #1-A and bar through firing order.
Here's where I'm at and I ask ya'll to excuse my ignorance, ok, I had the box off of 1-2 to change the crossover o-rings and I decided to run the OH and I can't figure out for sure which stroke I'm on. While I was at the A mark,the exhaust rocker on 6 was loose but not the intake,next I went to B and the 5 rockers would barely move and I wasn't sure so I rolled on to C and the 3 rockers I can wiggle a little and the 4 exhaust is loose,so I'm still scratching my head with a big question mark.
It's alright---Bar engine back around to A and look for the loose exhaust rocker on #6 and tight intake. Install the rocker box on the front two cylinders making sure push tubes are correct in cam followers and rockers. Just torque to 15 ft lbs, check rockers on #1 cylinder-you will find both have clearance. That will tell you that it's on the compression stroke. Finish by torqueing to 70 ft lbs. On the compression stroke of #1 cylinder the rockers will have clearance and #6 cylinder one rocker will be tight. On the compression stroke of #6 cylinder the rockers will have clearance and #1 cylinder one rocker will be tight. Just the reverse.
#1-A--VS--#1 cylinder valves closed rockers loose and #6 cylinder valve will be tight, adjust valves on #1 #5-B--VS--#5 cylinder valves closed rockers loose and #2 cylinder valve will be tight, adjust valves on #5 #3-C--VS--#3 cylinder valves closed rockers loose and #4 cylinder valve will be tight, adjust valves on #3 After #3-C/ the next stop is A again which is #6 cylinder which means you have bared the engine 360* from #1-A. #6-A--VS--#6 cylinder valves closed rockers loose and #1 cylinder valve will be tight, adjust valves on #6 #2-B--VS--#2 cylinder valves closed rockers loose and #5 cylinder valve will be tight, adjust valves on #2 #4-C--VS--#4 cylinder valves closed rockers loose and #3 cylinder valve will be tight, adjust valves on #4 Injectors are adjusted at same time on each cylinder that valves are adjusted on.
Thank you so much,I think I can get it now.
72 inch lbs, on the injectors,right?
Correct.
Thank you for your time and help.
Welcome.
So,I havn't had this truck on the road since I ran the overhead but it was running fine while I moved it around the place here loading some logs on it,I probably ran it 30 minutes or so. Today I was about to haul a load to the yard and it started knocking first and then skipping,I don't know how to check which cylinder is missing on these engines,I've only done that on CATs and I don't know what to think if I set the injectors wrong,or got some trash or what, any advise is much appreciated.
Start cold, run your hand along exhaust manifold at each exhaust port, find the cold ones.
could raw fuel come out the manifold at the cylinder that's missing? It looked like there was a leak from 5 or 6 and I thought it might be the crossover so I pulled the dogbox and looked and it wasn't coming from there.
Yes. Check the pushrods are in-place for injectors and none are bent.
It was running fine for a while. Wouldn't be skipping from first crankup if I had done something wrong. I did not go down the road but I drove it around here a little bit and it ran fine until today.
You need to start somewhere so find which cylinder is running cold, then remove the rocker cover to that cylinder, check that the adjuster screw jam nut/nuts are tight and check the push tubes. It also could have gotten a piece of dirt in the fuel system and found it's way to a injector. Or injector failed. But check the push tubes first, if you have a bent one then something isn't right with your overhead adjustment. Best I can tell you from where I'm setting.
Thanks,I'll try thats. If everything seems good and I need to pull an injector,how should I proceed? I did check some of the cylinders at the exhaust manifold today with a temp gun. How much difference should there be on the bad one?
You did not miss tightening a lock nut on one of the adjustment screws? I have seen adjustment screws snap off from the lock nuts being over-tightened over the years. They failed after the engine went back in service after a top end adjustment not while being tightened.
Normally that engine would idle at hot coolant temp of 180* and exhaust temp of give or take a few degrees {300*} at idle. So if you have one running 250* and less. Bar engine over till injector rocker lever is up on injector. Loosen injector adjuster jam nut, remove the injector lash screw and nut {careful not to drop in engine}, slid push tube to the side, flip rocker straight up. Remove the two 5/16 bolts on the injector hold down clamp {use magnet to remove screws} remove clamp. Use a heal bar/lady foot to catch lip of injector, rock the bar back lifting the injector. Reach in and lift injector out. You will need a injector copper brush to clean the injector copper in the head.
I noted a loose jam nut above but that does happen to the adjustment screws, those can snap.
I might not have gotten one tight enough but I'm not usually guilty of over torqueing.
Will the injector lever be up at the same time the valve rockers are loose?
Not necessarily, it's just going to make removing the adjuster screw easier with sliding the push tube to the side.
That’s exactly what I did, that explains why it was running good for a while and then started running erratic.
Now I’m looking for advice on the order which I should get the lever straightened up.
Remove the adjuster for the push tube slide push tube to side, tip rocker back and remove the crosshead. If it has no damage put it back inplace. Check the tops of valve stems, valve locks valve springs for damage. Reassemble in reverse, go back through the firing order that I posted to adjust that cylinder. But I would remove the push tube to make sure it's straight and no damage, putting it back in cam follower socket below. You can get this done, it's not hard you have already been through adjusting, and mistakes happen.
Thanks, It was running great at first,it actually was even smoking less.
One thing that I have noticed while rolling the engine around is that the intake valves on the cylinders that I'm checking I can barely get the.14 feeler under and they are not loose enough to feel anything when I try to shake the rocker,I can shake the exhaust a little. I was wondering if that's optimal adjustment or a tad too tight on the intake?
The feeler gauge should slide through with a slight drag you should not have to force. It sounds like they are a bit too tight.
Thanks,while I'm spinning it around to get 6 fixed I'm going to readjust them.
Well,I cranked it up while ago and it was skipping so I pulled that valve cover back off and the intake rocker was not moving and it looks like the valves are closed. I checked everything yesterday and couldn't find any damage,don't know where to start.
Did you make sure the pushrod/push tube was seated in the cam follower? And did you remove the intake push tube to inspect for damage?
I removed the tube and it looked fine but I must not have gotten it back in right,not sure how to do it without pulling the rocker box I thought I had it in right but I guess not
Not sure this will help or even make sense. But if you put a bit of oil on the ball end of the push rod and then lower it into the cam follower. Then try lifting it up easy just a little bit. If you did hit the socket of the cam follower you should be able to feel it kind of stick when trying to gently lifting it. It take a little trying to get so you can feel it but once you get the feeling it should be easy to know if it is seating in the socket and not some place else.
Shine a light down in there while installing, when push rod is in the cam follower socket it will spin smooth with two fingers.
I'm a little slow sometimes,flashlight really helped and she sounds right now,thanks for your help, and mekanik and kshansen.
Your welcome.
Hey any time I can in some small way help fix a piece of equipment without getting my hands dirty while sitting here in my comfy pants I'm glad to help!