I bought a 780 case rubber tire backhoe from a guy about a year ago and I would like to do the hydraulic tank filters on it I cannot find the screen at the bottom of the tank or the return filter I cross reference the return and they come back with a 12 inch filter , it won’t go in too long , and the one I took out is 9 inches long I’m new to this site so I’m trying to figure out all of this ,replaced hoses patched up some air lines got the brakes going all that ,I’ll try to get some pics on if I can figure it out ! Does anyone know where I can get good info on this beast ?
Welcome to HEF, Kyle ! A serial number of the tractor is required to get any accurate information for you. There should be a tag on the side of the dash console with it on it. A photo of the machine will help some. Were there any numbers on the filter you removed ?
Ok I’ll check but I actually took the in tank filter out (it’s in rough shape ) and took it to three different dealers and couldn’t cross reference any of the numbers or the size I’ll see what the tags come up with thanks for your input!
Are you sure it is a 780 and not a 680 ?? We need that serial number. Does you hydraulic tank look like this ?
Ok this is the number on the plate on the steering column and a couple of pics of the beast . Still get the wrong size filter online
That does look like the tank but on top there is two bolt down covers one has a dipstick and the other has the filter with a cone insert and spring
Just curious if this a N. American machine?
This is why serial numbers are sooo important for helping anyone. Your 780CK was made in 1978. OMGosh !!! The filter is over $115.00 US !!! Click here for the filter and suction screen part numbers.
This is the tank and the number for the filter is 55204
So I need both the return and the suction screen or is the suction screen reusable? Thanks for being patient One other question if those filters are bunged up with the oil get real hot ,the temperatures here have been quite warm and after I run the beast foo a couple of hours it the hoe gets sluggish, could the cooler rad be plugged also ?
The screen is very tough. It is made out of stainless steel. I have seen them split open due to severe contamination. It should last the life of the tractor without replacement. Remove yours and clean it and inspect it. Then you will know if it needs to be replaced. Prolly won't ! The oil temperature shouldn't cause an oil filter to fail. I don't think the hyd. oil cooler will be plugged internally. But they collect dirt in the gap that is between it and the radiator. If a hose is seeping a tiny bit on the cooler it will get dirty quite fast.
Thank you for your input ,now I have a few hoses to change ,by the time I’m done digging and hauling this thing will be worth a few bucks !
Okay I sent a request to AV spare parts for a filter it the one I need ,anyone deal with these guys before ?
I haven't. I always use OEM filters for hydraulics. From what I have read the micron rating can vary between filter brands.
I'm not sure if AV spares sells OEM parts or aftermarket. For Cat they show Cat parts diagrams and part numbers. I think generally most filters are good quality. Some have better construction but that might not make a big difference in how well they actually do their job of filtering.
I know I have put a few Wix fuel filters on my 3304 Cat over the years, and they split open in a day or so.
That's surprising. Wix makes the Napa gold filters.
Ya I’m still on the hunt , replaced a hose that blew ,now the main dipper cylinder is puking out oil so I’m also trying to get a seal kit now ! So if the return is plugged up would it blow out any weak seals ? The main hoe dipper always leaked a bit when I started digging now it’s just pouring out .I seen a guy online replace it doesn’t look too brutal ,just waiting for an answer from a case dealer in bc on seal kit and filter cause the online supplier said none in stock which is just lovely so here I sit with half a hole dug !!!!!
The return line has nothing to do with a cylinder seal leaking. A cylinder on good shape can blow the relief valve in the circuit and never drip a drop of oil. The Case dealer will be stupid expensive for that seal kit. If your old filter isn't damaged or toooo dirty use it long enough to get your hole dug. I saw several on-line vendors offering that filter for sale.
So anyways got a smokin deal on two filters from the case dealer in bc only 300$ for two ! Maybe I should have bought some shovels and put my family to work LOL THEN 130$ for the seal kit howah ! I’m digging deep here !
I just got this I have worked on some hydraulic stuff on machines but not quite this old like bobcats mini hoes so is the relief valve something that packs up ? Or do the usually last for sometime , how would I check to see if it’s still functioning properly? Is it like a hot water tank relief valve ? Can u pop it to test it or is it a closed fitting ?
Relief valves are mostly trouble fee. There are ways to to test them. Unless you are having problems there is no need to worry about them. Every time a hydraulic cylinder is dead ended, or the rod if cannot move under extreme pressure the relief valve opens to protect the system.
Thanks ,I’m waiting for the seal kit for the dipper cylinder on the hoe I seen a video on how to put them in , like I said I’ll try to get some pics and thanks for your feedback !
You will need a tool to fold the gland seal and a gland wrench. IMHO ! https://www.amazon.com/NOTETOUPT-Hy...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584207594804504&psc=1
Ya finally got my seal kit still waiting on the filters would you happen to know any dealers that have that hydraulic filters I’m looking fo ? Just a few dealers would be a good start thanks
Would it be a bad idea to run the hoe after I replace the seals or would it be better to wait until I change the filter it’s old so the hydraulic oil is pretty nasty ?
Go ahead and use it with the filters you have in it. Call Dale or Debbie at -----> http://e-backhoeparts.com/ They are as cheap as anyone.
Coming to Canada might be a pain. Go to places that repair heavy equipment or trucks that are filter distributors and see if they can cross the filters and get them for you.
I have purchased quite a few parts form a retired Case dealer in Canada. He still sells new old stock and he has boneyard where his dealership was. He always sent everything through the post office. It didn't take much longer to get parts from there than something sent from within the US. I bought a used starting motor from him a quite while ago. It was delivered to the post office in the little town I live in. The box was wrapped with $90.00 worth of Canadian stamps ! His price for the starter was so cheap that it was still a good deal. I always mailed him cash and never had a problem doing that. He sends me parts before I put the payment in the mail. Good Lord, I love honest people !
Even ordering from the US. It is the best through the post office.
Ok so I sent my post to the wrong conversation so I got my seal kit and removed the shaft off the dipper cylinder wow talk about overkill on metal anyway I’m posting pics to see if you can look at the end of the shaft , did the old seal kits have some kind of cloth or material in them or as my neighbour said they may not been able to get off the nut and jammed some belting under it or something?
Thanks so much for your input it’s well appreciated!
I doubt anything was jammed in it. Now it's apart you can properly fix it regardless. What do consider to be overkill? The cylinders have tons and tons of pressure and the backhoe puts even more stress on everything.
@Kyle Mulvaney Hi Kyle, we're here to help, but by posting same pics & in multiple threads - your going to confuse the hell out of us old farts....
Kyle; you will need either the number that is stamped on the gland of the cylinder, or the tractor serial number so that you get the correct seal kit. There are two different kits available for that cylinder.
I actually talked to some rep on the phone before I ordered the kit ,gave him the year ser number and the lot ,and he sent me what looks like the right kit it’s just - there doesn’t look like there is any thing in the kit that has that cloth looking stuff could that be separate?
The seals on your cylinder could be 30 to 40+yrs old. Seal makers in the 21st century probably use a different product that is more cost efficient to produce ..... & last a fraction of the time of the old school stuff.
So my potlickin filters finally showed up and I got my cylinder kit in an reassembled , wow not really a walk in the park eh ! Anyways on a machine this old will it airlock or can I top up the hydraulic tank and run it ? Just wondering if it will get rid of the air in the system ? Thanks
No, it will not airlock. Be sure the air pressure is up tp at least 100 psi before using the hydraulics. The hydraulic tank HAS to have at least 15 psi of air pressure in it to insure that the hydraulic pump has a continuous supply of oil.
So do I have to pressure up the tank or make sure I it’s sealed ?I took out the old filter and cleaned all the crap out of the bottom ,I’m going to put in the new filter ( I cleaned the suction filter as it was reusable ) do I just fire it up and make sure it doesn’t leak ?
Depending on when your tractor was built it may not have a (air) pressurized hydraulic tank. There will be a gauge on the tank under the hood if it is. If it is pressurized you will know when you remove the cap while the tractor is running. . Yes, just fire it up and let the pressure build in the tank.
Ok I’m going to give it a go thanks !
Ya got the whole thing running again emptied the hydraulic tank it actually wasn’t that dirty and got the cylinder together and on WHAT A PIG OF A JOB ! Anyway I run it for say 1- 2 hours and the oil light starts to glow faintly at first then it gets dark red , any reason for thais to happen ? And there is a light on the front dash , and on the console for the backhoe control’s! Thanks you guys for your input!
Which light is it ?
There are tw o lights one on the front dash and one on the backhoe controls , they both seem to slowly start turning red then get brighter until they stay red ! Are they for oil temp or engine temp ! Sorry for taking so long to reply I was working on a atv that was in the bush for like 7 years !
I’m just heading out to do some fencing so I’ll check in this afternoon if all goes well !
engine temp.
So it could be the thermostat stuck or plugged coolant rad ? If I ran some flush through the system do you think it may help ?
Inset there a temperature gauge in the dashboard ? If the engine is not overheating there is a problem in the sending unit. Or wiring. I have the same set-up in my 680CK. If there isn't temp. gauge in the a dash I would put one in it. Any auto parts store has them. A drill and a bi-metal hole saw will make a nice neat hole in the dash. Always drill a pilot hole first and then use put the drill bit in the hole saw backwards. That prevents the spirals of the drill bit from elongating the hole in the dash. The result is that the hole is perfectly round.
Another cool Tinkerer Tip, Thanks!
Anybody know why my 780ck is blowing black smoke under load (like pushing snow ) we just had a week and a half of in Canadian temps 30-37 below , cold enough to freeze the nuts off a brass monkey ! Anyway I fired it up and was plowing and it started to lose power and really blow black smoke ! I’m kinda thinking maybe it’s running lean? Or rich I’m not sure as I posted before I’m not a diesel mechanic, so anyway any idea what I could look for ? Thanks for your input and enjoy your time off with family and friends!
I would guess the air cleaners are plugged with snow.
Yup.. snow in air cleaner..
Looks like the dust from digging this summer got damp an turned into mud ! Sweet deal ! So yup moisture snow all that fun stuff thanks for your posts , it was the air filter I was kinda freaked out you know worst case scenario,turbo injectors etc, play safe boys !