SERIAL #JAK0023963 I've been looking for a payloader. Found one nearby very low hours, never worked in heavy construction. Pushed a train for it's entire life. It's going on auction. The people listing it said the brakes are bad. I called the mechanic shop and they said $17,000 in parts or $22,750 parts/labor. Can this be real? Said it needs Disc, Shoes and possibly calipers. The calipers were $3,000/piece. Are there any places a person could buy calipers cheaper? Found other places online for the other components but no calipers. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Any idea what I should offer for the machine? Thank you all for your help. I was looking for a 966c but this machine has very few hours on it and is in my back yard....
The brakes are outer disc brakes and not that hard to change the pads. The brake system is air over hyd. with two master cylinders with pancake actuators, which are same as truck type. You have an air dryer that is the same as what is used on trucks, compressor is the same also just water cooled. Of course the expense is what is wrong with brakes is it an air problem or hyd. problem. I don't think it would cost as much as what they are quoting you, especially if you can do labor yourself.
I think the majority of the price was for the Calipers. But I found a place that has used ones. I also haven't been able to look at it myself, I would be doing all of the labor myself. What do you think it would be worth?
Can you post a photo of loader? I'm really not sure of price but you can do some checking online at different auction sites.
Hey, I'll try and get some pictures this week and post them. Thanks for helping.
No problem
***?! Don't do this!
Hey! You mean don't buy it or don't have the mechanic shop do the work? I wasn't planning on them doing any of the work, and most likely not getting any parts through them after seeing their pricing.
Perfect.
So the front left brake caliper sticks and won't release. The disc's are all worn down quite a bit, pads look like new. Was driving it home but the disc kept getting really hot so parked it at a friends shop and will work on it this upcoming week. So question, wheres the best place to buy the disc's and also a used or good priced new caliber if i can't get it to suck back in. Machine has 4XXX hours on it, was never used in construction, local elevator used it to pull the train around the track. Everything seems almost like new on it minus the brake system. One life cylinder leaks but as of right now that's pretty minor. I do believe the loader has the extended axle so it didn't ride on top of the rail road rail. One more thing where would a guy buy an operators manual for it?
I would post a pic of your rotors if I were you. It really depends on how bad they are...……..can they be turned down? ….or are they wore THAT bad. You should be able to save your brake caliper also. It sounds like the caliper piston is stuck, maybe due to contaminants………..if its rusted then its junk unless you can have it recoated. If you cant un-lodge the caliper piston from the housing.....drop it in a bucket of diesel fuel for a day or 2. If your in a farming application with this loader, how much do you really want to spend on brake parts? You very well may be able to get good brakes for your use without a lot of parts expense.
I haven’t dealt with calipers in Case/IH payloaders, but I did everything else on those breaks. I think most of your expense will come from labor! You gonna have to become contortionist to work on that system! Those are kinda stuck on stupid breaks and steering - even relatively newer machines still use air over hydraulic breaks ( I don’t see why it can be air breaks, especially those being articulated machines), and cable or rod/link operated steering ( when about everybody else use orbitrol valves for steering). Break cluster is about $800 bucks. Most of those is Wagner, but if you not in a hurry you can source individual parts. Axles are Rockwell, you can go to axletech website, they have link to aftermarket site where possibly you can find cheaper break parts. If it is Wabco - you pretty much screwed on price, or it is obsolete.
https://www.meritorpartsxpress.com/...meritor-na/home?catalogId=10051&storeId=10154
https://www.axletech.com/en/products/brakes
I use AVspare to find part numbers, then search for cheaper option. Sometimes going to Original manufacturer is a cheapest option but you would have to find the OEM model/serial first because machine manufacturers replace name plates and re-code numbers.
This what was on the IH 503A, the last I worked on:
Thank you all very much for the great advice and information. I was able to get the pay loader home by taking it easy and slow. Moved some snow piles with it and it worked great. Vetech63 you're right I do not want to spend much money, hopefully as little as possible. A couple things that I noticed after running it. When I apply the brakes it has a lot of resistance but it does nothing whatsoever to stop it. Also when shifting I can go from 1-2 and it does nothing 2-3 shifts fine and 3-4 ***** fine. 4th gear is very slow but maybe it's not a speed demon anyway. Anything to check?
Resistance you feel is in the foot air valve ( probably E6). On the cluster ( that’s where air pusher bolts to master cylinder) there’s usually indicator rod - when air drum pushes the master cylinder you should see thin rod moving in and out. If it doesn’t - your problem is in the air half of the system. Does machine building up the air pressure? Usually gauge would have green field and say “drive”.
These are your clusters, they actually less expensive options, not sure if those have indicator rods though. Should be in front half of the machine underneath and to the front of cabin floor. Might have to remove fenders to get to them.
https://avspare.com/catalog/case/62263/ This should help.
On the transmission I would start with electricals first. Switch and wires.
Here is indicator rod attached to the spring, you should see it moving when applying the breaks.
Hey, I know it builds pressure because it releases some every so often. I don't think I have the green indicator light though, if I do it's possibly burned out? Then again I only had a few hours to run it and my two year old was on my lap the entire time.
It’s not a light, it is green field on your pressure gauge dial. If you don’t have air pressure your breaks won’t work.
I found a kit to rebuild the calipers for very cheap. Still have the problem with the transmission though. Haven't had time to look at it. Thanks for any help.
Does the brake pedals move when you push on them? Is there brake fluid in the brake reservoir, on right side of machine near engine and transmission mounting area? On the transmission problem there could be two issues, the shift solenoid in trans control valve for first gear or the micro switch in the FnR shifter switch.
The front two calipers are the ones that would hang up frequently and thus are the ones in the picture that have the ridge. The back rotors are in very good shape. I think I'm going to order the rebuild kit and try one to see how it goes. Any advice on the shifting would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all for the help so far!
Hey, Thank you for responding. I didn't read what you had posted accidentally earlier. How do I go about testing the solenoid? How do I access the solenoid and the micro switch? I enjoy mechanics but my dad was always at the bar growing up so I'm not the best but I really like to try so thank you for all the help.
The solenoids are under item number 2 and you can check them with an ohm meter. They should all ohm out the same within 10-15 ohms anyway. Item #4 are the solenoids you are looking for.
Thank you! This will make everything much easier.
No problem: let me know what your reading are on the solenoids please.
4 of the 5 solenoids were at .08-.09. But the 3rd one down didn't read at all. Which makes sense because I think that would be the one that controls 2nd gear. Because the very top one I don't know what would do but the other 4 seem like they would control the individual gears and that makes sense because it doesn't shift to 2nd. Are all the solenoids the same? I thought of pulling a different one out and putting in place to test it. Titan Machinery said the solenoid is $850 and that seems ridiculous to me. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A BETTER PRICE?
Hey Coy, There wasn't any brake fluid in the resevoir. I think I'm going to flush the brake system out. I'll be taking off the one caliper that sticks and rebuilding it so it hopefully doesn't hang up anymore. I believe I figured out the shifting problem to with it being a bad solenoid. But Titan machinery wants $850 and that seems like highway robbery.
Quick search showed this: But don’t take my word for it - verify! Pull solenoid out and read the numbers on the side. There’s couple of versions of that control, first you need to find which exactly is yours. Case P/n is 242137A1.
Also it might be wiring problem and not solenoid it self - verify before buying. If there was no break fluid it means something was leaking! Another problem when system is empty for a long time - everything gets rusty because break fluid is hygroscopic and attract moisture. So even if your air side is working ( which you haven’t verify yet) after you fill system with break fluid components would start leaking one by one!
TVA, Thanks for the info! I could find that one on the 821B but not on the 821. I'll go out this morning and pull it out and check. Is removal as simple as pulling out the alan screw and pulling it out? Seems very simple. Thanks for the reply!
Yes, was wrong, your serial number is prior to 0025165, and your part number is S300553. But still pull solenoid out and try to read numbers off of it and search! Also try “Spicer powershift solenoid” I never worked on your particular machine, but try locating the transmission name tag on the bottom of the transmission pan to see what model transmission is. Usually it’s Clark but later they was bought by DANA/Spicer so it might be Spicer. Although CNH like to get rid of original manufacturers name tags so they can make a killing on parts!
The solenoids act together with multiple solenoids engaging at one time. Rebuilding the caliper isn't that bad be sure and hone piston hole. Flushing the brake system is a good idea. Looks like TVA found a good deal on solenoid. Good Luck on repairs.
Might not be right solenoid though!
Quick search again, looked for Clark t12000 solenoid. Looks like the difference is cheaper ones has one annual grooves and more expensive ones two annual grooves.
Look at this one! It’s about $28-$30. But it is all the way in Ukraine!!!
You can try and run these numbers: 4207160/599915/923944.0590/0260130036/923976.1449
0 260 013 0036 is original manufacturers ( Bosch ) number. Numbers might be on the side or on top where contacts are.
Thank you ALL so much for all the help. I will be working on this shortly.
Hello all! I swapped solenoid positions and now Reverse doesn't work and 2nd gear does so that tells me it is the solenoid. Thank you all for the help. Sorry to keep the questions rolling but is it common to have a hydraulic temp sensor failure? Was running it when it was cold for only a few minutes and it's gone off twice. Also here's a few pics of the solenoid that's bad. I'm struggling finding one on the internet but I'll be looking for a while.
I guess you gonna have to find out what the difference between the 0 260 120 012 and 0 260 120 025. Right now I see that original is 26V, and 026 is 24V. But don’t know what else!
Frankly! If it was me I would risk $50 and buy the 025 one to see if it would work!!! There’s no way in hell I would pay $900 for it!!!
Does anyone know the difference? I am usually very good at finding things on the internet but this is like a dam unicorn.
Could be the same, one for original manufacturer, the other aftermarket. IDK!
Does anyone know of any salvage yards for heavy equipment? The one that I ordered won't be here for a few weeks and it looks different then the original. Thanks,
Schaefer Enterprises 800-626-6046 in Groom Lake IL. You could try them.
Eric with Component Services was able to help me out. He had used solenoids for $150 that he tests and make's sure they work. He was very helpful. I was told by a few different salvage yards that he is very good and rebuilds the ZF transmissions. Component Services in Elwood Indiana 877-274-7278 in case anyone ever has this problem. Thanks for the help everyone, I'm glad I came across this group. I'm sure I'll be posting more questions in the future!
Hello everyone! I got my solenoid installed and all gears of the transmission work now! I do have a question about the speed of it though . The maximum speed I can get it up to is 15mph but I thought I read it’s suppose to go 23mph. Is this true? Anyone have a reason why it wouldn’t reach that speed? Thank you all again! I was going to have the calipers off this weekend and work on them with my father in law in Ely but I didn’t have a large enough socket to pull the wheels off.
Does that transmission have ranges? Like Clark 6 speed is actually hydraulic powershift 3 speed but has mechanical range shifter. Probably lever is somewhere on the floor next to seat, if it has 4WD- 2wd shifter they are next to each other.
That I don’t know. I never saw another one lever but I will look when I get home
There could be a number of things not letting loader reach top speed, and yes 23mph is about right for this machine. First off are you sure tranny is shifting into 4th gear? Your engine could be an issue such as fuel, air and timing. Trans pressures could be an issue also, check your fluid level in tranny while engine is running at low idle at operating temp. Also check axle oil levels the planetary oil is separate from differential oil so check the accordingly.
Thank you! I will do that.
I know it's shifting into 4th because I can feel it. The engine seems to run really smooth but not saying that's not a possibility. How do I check trans pressure? Coy you are very knowledgeable and helpful. If I ever come across your path I'm buying you a beer and a steak.
The trans pressure is checked at the control valve, you need pressure gauge and hoses of course but also need metric fittings to screw into valve body. Thanks for the invite if I'm ever up that way again I'll take you up on the offer. BTW if you can get you a service manual it will be a life saver.
Hey, Sounds good. I did indeed buy a service manual, parts manual and owners manual for it. I sand blasted the calipers yesterday but I learned a valuable lesson. I should have left the cylinders in before I did it. I made cardboard cut outs to go in place where the cylinders were so I wouldn't get sand into the piston area and it failed miserably. Any advice? Just keep blowing it out and then run it through a parts washer for a long time followed by brake cleaner?
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Where did you find the rebuild kit for the calipers? I have the same machine, and they quoted me over $5000 per caliper Thanks
rebuild calipers! just did a set of early bf Goodrich set off a trojan .Yours different but still rebuildable
Case parts................ Sounds about right