Hey everyone, thanks for the great resource and info on the forum! I'm trying to get my abandoned track loader up and running, it's a 935c (s/n 5DJ00027) it was on the back acreage when I bought my house but I'm having a hard time finding a part. I got a friend with a dozer to pull it to free the tracks, and the engine purrs like it's new, but we couldn't get it to move on it's own. We found that the linkage (about 3" long) between the lever and the top of the cable is rusted to scrap, and now I can't find the part, either cat or generic. I assume that I'm just bad at explaining it, or I'm looking for the wrong thing. Thanks for any help or advice!
Here's the part from the cat website parts diagram, but it isn't numbered, or described.
Not quite sure where you found that graphic on SIS. Here's what I can see. Items 7 and 13?
Thanks for the reply Cmark, looks like you're a better hand at finding the right parts fiche than me. The part I'm looking for is just to the right of 13, parallel to it in that drawing and shorter, just above the bold "C". Looks like #7 is the right part in the enlargement, could I just find a piece of threaded rod to use as the attachment? Does the rod end come with the bolt that connects it to the lever? Sorry for the back-to-back questions, can you tell that I'm a little out of my depth .
Yes your linkage is shown in "enlarged view of area C" Yes, you can use a piece of threaded rod. Yes the rod ends do come with the bolt attached but you will probably have to buy the nuts separately. They are 5/16" UNF and should be available from your local hardware supplier if you don't have a Cat dealer nearby.
When you get time please post images of your machine. We’ve seen 931s & 939s around here but 935s seem to be less popular locally. 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder?
On the "enlarged view of area C" for your Serial Number the Ref Numbers aren't very clear what they refer to. Here's a better illustration. The Rod you are looking for is #9 (P/N 3N-7824), the rod ends & locknuts (2 of each) are #7. The overall length of the rod is 1.375" and it's 5/16" UNF thread.
You guys are amazing, thanks for all the help! I just stopped by the dealership, and they suggested I try an auto parts store for a generic heim joint style shift linkage for a car to save a couple hundred $ and not wait on them to get more stock in (shipping to the islands isn't cheap either). I'll check there, it's a little closer to my wheelhouse, but I assume I'm going to be back for more advice soon. Anybody ever put a generic seat in place of the rusty stock one? I'm thinking a universal fork lift seat.
There are brochures online for 935's. They are basically the same as a 931B/C but about 10 more HP out of a 3204. The bucket might be slightly bigger capacity. I don't know if they are the same frame or not but don't think they were very popular.
I'll post some pictures of the poor old rusty machine in a few days. It looks like someone in the past greatly expanded the bucket, it has a cutting edge and teeth welded on and an extension all the way around the sides and top. I've seen pictures of 935's with an aux backhoe instead of the ripper that mine has, I'll look for one of those if I ever get it back in good shape
Hooking a backhoe up is a little more involved than a ripper. You need a power beyond adaptor on the control valve and I'd imagine it's very similar to a 931B/C in that there is an optional higher capacity piston pump for backhoe operation. A standard pump will work but the backhoe will be slower and not perform as well. You also need the brackets to attach the hoe to the machine and a different seat. The factory seat has a flip over backrest that allows the same seat to be used forward or reverse. The seat is no longer available from Cat. The seat set up is a little awkward but I think is better than the JD set up that uses a seperate seat for the backhoe. With the Cat you can control the transmission from the seat. This is very desirable in softer ground where it's hard to move the machine using just the hoe. The biggest advantage though is if you are stuck. You can run the trans. while pulling or pushing with the hoe. I have got myself out of some soft conditions several times this way.
Bummer, this machine will be extremely useful on the farm, but I was really hoping that adding a hoe to it was going to be possible. These machines are from right around the time the plantations shut down out here so I assume they bought a bunch of them all at once and sold them at auction when that was all over. I may be able to spot a few more around but I don't know if any of them will be in better shape. Rust is downright predatory in the jungle
The extended bucket shouldn't affect loading too much unless it's really packed material you're digging. It's actually nice to have the top of the bucket extended higher. I can get spill over on my bucket which has damaged the lines for the 4 in 1 bucket. Just have to be careful loading wet clay or other heavy material. The machine could get tippy. A backhoe could still be adapted to your machine but would need a power beyond adaptor or a hyd. schematic to show how the backhoe is hooked up. Cat likely had a conversion kit available so a hoe could be added to an existing machine. It couldn't just run off the ripper lines. Finding a used backhoe could be difficult but a JD or Case backhoe could likely be adapted as well as long as they were for an open center hyd. system. JD especially had some backhoes set up for closed center hyd's. Mounting ears could be designed and fabricated to fit. JD mounting is very similar to Cat mounting. JD is actually smarter in that the backhoe mounts and ripper mounts are the same. This is great if you had a hoe and a ripper, easy to switch them over. Cat the ripper and mounting would have to be completely unbolted to attach the backhoe and bolted back on when you wanted to use it. It may be possible to find a wrecked machine with a backhoe that you could get all the hyd's. and mounting ears with the backhoe. There used to be a machine listed with a bad trans. that had a hoe. A different hyd. pump isn't absolutely required.
If you plan to do any bush clearing you should try and find some engine side shields. Branches and even tree's have a way of trying to get in the engine compartment.