I have a 1989 943 Cat and the return to dig adjustment dont work. Its all mechanical linkage with electrical kick out. Can any one help me get started trouble shooting and get this function up and running . Thanks Divedigger
The electrical cutout I assume is operated by a magnet, correct..? By that I mean the "detector box" mounted on the tilt cylinder linkage. Sometimes if the magnet is not passing close enough it fails to function. Literally you need not much more than a cigarette paper of space between the two for the kickout to function. In the cab if you have your bucket tilted right the way forward and pull back on the lever does it hold in the "detent" position correctly..? I other words does if you pull it right back as far as it will go and let go the lever, does the lever stay in that position unless you manually push it forward to the neutral position..?
we have a 943 81 model and i believe that it is all manual on ours. post some pics of the mechanism on the tilt cylinder, and i will try to offer some insight. i will try to grab a pic of our so you can use for comparison
I have a 20z 953, should be very similar to your 943. I am sure the kick outs are all mechanical on my machine. I was having trouble with the return to dig on my machine. There is a horizontal shaft under the end of the bucket cylinder that attaches to the machine. The shaft runs perpendicular to the bucket cylinder. It’s about ¾” dia. and runs inside of a tube. One end of the shaft has a pawl the bucket cylinder taps as it retracts. The other end of the shaft attaches to a leaver on the hydraulic tank. If you grab the pawl and try to move it is should move freely. That is, the shaft should rotate inside the tube. I suspect you will find the pawl does not move or is very stiff and the shaft is in fact frozen up inside the tube. You have to remove the heavy cover over the fuel tank to get to this mechanism. Once you get the cover off there are four bolts that hold the shaft and tube assembly to the machine. For what ever reason cat used needle bearings between the shaft and tube. Problem is all this deal sits out in the weather and takes water. My bearings were all rusted. I didn’t mess around with new needle bearings. I was able to find bronze bushings at a hardware store that worked perfect. The shaft o.d. and the tube i.d. are a common even number, like ¾” and 1 ¼”, can’t remember for sure. IMO the bronze bushing is a better fix than replacing the bearing. It was an easy fix after I got it apart, hope this helps.
Thanks for all the ideas, I will get on it and check things out and see what I can find! Again THANKS Divedigger