My 953C track tensioner ram is rubbing the front roller on 1-side, needing advice on what is causing this and how to fix it. My undercarriage should be replaced anytime but I would like to run its while longer.
Looks like your tensioner is stretched to its max limit. Good news is it looks like you can move your lower idler pivots forward and gain a little more tension. The front track guide unbolts with I believe 6 bolts on each side then slide forward to the next set of holes. You can slide them forward without having to break the track. Roll the bucket down and slightly lift the toes of the machine. Unbolt the guards and hook a chain/ratchet boomer from the guards to a bucket tooth. Loosen the grease valve on the tensioner and start pulling forward until the next set of holes lines up. Tighten the track and go back to work. Good luck John
Thanks John, I am unclear of exactly of which part you are referring to that needs to be unbolted and slid forward. I think you are referring to the large guide that has the round cap with 3- bolts in it. Is this correct? I see we are close, I am from Higginsville. How are things in Harrisonville?
Well this was the first time I saw that type of track adjusted, more familiar with D6's type! Attaching, or hope, or hope I can, the instructions for this. Was not sure of the S/N but think it should point you in the right direction.
Kshansen, Thank you very much, I understand how to fix it now. Going to move the idlers to next set of holes and see how much slack that takes out, if not enough I will take a link out.
If you move the idler location forward that should do it for now IMHO. Please remember that if at some future date you remove a link from the track the idler will have to be moved back to its original location at the same time. Best to do that before attempting to reconnect the track otherwise you may run into problems.
One thing I noticed , the adjuster rod seems to be leaning down , if this is the case you will have to pull the adjuster off and get it back in the rear bushing. We had one do this and it had been adjusted out so far it was past the rear bushing. They are no problem to repair just time and I don't think the parts were expensive. You might be able to get the adjuster rod raised up and back in the bushing. And it may be just the way I'm looking at it. I just put new idlers on my 943 a word of advice and I think it helped , while still running it I would spray the bolts with pb blaster first thing and last thing. All the bolts came out. I did this for a week, went thru 3 cans.
Thanks Nige & Dickjr, I think I am going to take a link out to get the adjuster ram back in a better / shorter position to tighten as needed until I replace the undercarriage. Dickjr I think you are correct on the rod being extended out of the rear bushing.
Can someone explain the process for taking a link out. My idlers are set forward and just last week I bent an adjuster rod on my 953 A model. My rails have considerable wear in the pins but I'd like to squeeze a few more hours out of it this fall until time to shut things down this winter. Is it something that can be done in a pretty capable farm shop? Thanks John
I am not sure how much removing the link changes pitch. I do know that if you move the idler forward the wear acceleration is multiplied considerably. Weighing the labor , and parts versus weighing going ahead and replacing the rails and segments are costs to be considered. I just put tires on my service truck , its one of those things you don't want to do but needs to be done.
It doesn't. The pitch was already extended because of the internal wear on pins and bushes. The total extension on the link group is why the adjuster has reached the end of its travel.