On an earlier post I had mentioned about having to repack the RH Tilt Cylinder on the new to us 955L that I bought a couple of months back & today we pulled the cylinder off & pulled the rod out. Tried to turn the big nut off at the end of the day, but it is on there tight.....need to get out some heavier artillery in the morning. Anyone know the torque specs on the nut?
Putting it back on is 1200+-120 lbf. You're on the right lines. Get a stronger stand, position it so it's as close to the piston as possible and use that backhoe to push on the breaker bar.
and getting it off will need even more oomph. Everything CMark said with knobs on. Don't be frightened of it so long as it's well supported right next to the piston. If you could find some thick-walled pipe to make the saddle with, plus a much more robust stand to take the weight that would be the mutt's nuts.
Well, we tried to get the nut off but it is a bit too robust for us. We have a torque multiplier with 1" drive in, with a 4-1 ratio & it still wouldn't budge for us, following the suggestion of supporting it on the stand right behind the piston which we did. Then we tried it with the 1" T-bar with the machine pushing down on it & no go there either, so we just dropped it off at a local hyd shop for them to do. Hope to get it back in a day or 2.
Metalman have a look in Shop Talk on my Cat sprocket removal thing, try page 51 and 60 to see how easy it is to undo those bothersom to you Nuts. tctractors
You mean this little tool? I know and you do to that used with a touch of common sense that would be probably the safest way to approach that job. But where I worked the safety people would wet themselves if they saw me doing something like that! The thing is if we were to load it on a truck and take it to an outside contractor like yourself who used the exact same tools they would not blink an eye as they would not have think about a lawyer knowing about it.
kshansen, this is my Torque Multiplier, it's a chunk of steel about 5"x 2" with an 1"1/2 drive welded into the 1 end and a lashing ring welded into the other, it always spins open the small stuff, I have a 2" drive 1 for the bigger stuff. tctractors
But if it doesn't have a part number and manufactures name or a certified engineer drawing it can't be safe! Or at least that is what those in power would say! I did work like that for 45 years and still have all my original equipment limbs so I think I have a pretty good idea what is safe to do! Had to help move an old Northwest Crane to send to auction several years back. Boss had called in an old timer who worked on them for years to show us how to get it to move, sorry to say I never had the opportunity work on them back in the day. Well with that big old Cat engine running this guy hands me a hammer and tells me to reach down in among a bunch of big gears and when he pulls some levers hit right there! Well I figure if Norm who was in his 80's and still had all his fingers he probably knew what he was doing. A couple good raps on the brake band and the rust let loose and the old machine was walking along just fine again. If safety people had been involved they would have wanted to spend days disassembling things to free it up. 15 seconds with some common sense and job done!
Reminds me of when I was working for a civil engineering firm in the 80s. Had several 22RBs rigged for crane and dragline, all with manual clutches, none of your fancy air systems thank you! On a cold and damp morning there wasn't enough weight on the hoist line to spin the drum in freefall so you had to reach around the guard and give the brake band a shake to get everything moving.
Or put it in power lower until there was enough weight of hoist rope to get the block to free fall...... The fun thing with a 19 or a 22 was if the teeth on the swing lock ever wore out. Fine when you were not travelling, you could use the swing brake, but not when you were travelling - the upper frame would go round and round like a funfair ride..
Now you're bringing back memories. We used to rig ours with no power lower; leave off the chain connecting the front and rear drums. The operators, almost always old Irishmen who would insist that power lower slowed things down too much in freefall. I remember multiple times removing the cablock dog, building up the teeth as best you could with weld on site and reinstalling it. Almost always broken by blokes forgetting to engage it before changing from slew to travel and then throwing the cablock in in panic. More fun was to be had if they also forgot to to engage the digging lock on a hill before changing from travel to slew. The sort of mistake you only make once.
Those big nuts are nylon lined to lock them on. I heated mine until the nylon started bubbling out and they came right off. Takes lots of heat though. Downside is, you have to replace the nuts.
Grease Gun, damage costs £$ so I just undo them it's not hard even if you dont have the correct socket, you can always cut a hex into some flat plate and make something strong to do the task. tctractors
I'm not trying to be argumentative, but this is how I look at it..... I had the proper socket and a 10 foot cheater pipe. I'm 250# and was standing on the end of that pipe.....no luck. After the heat, they popped right off. I think the nuts were $80 to replace. I could have been more creative and found a way to get them off and saved those nuts, but my time and sanity was worth the $80. Just sayin'.......to each, his own.
As I see it it's the difference between doing it on a one off basis where you do what you think is necessary and doing it for a living for which you get tooled up because you know you're going to do it over & over again, which is what TC does and why his customers wouldn't wear destroying the nut every time.
Grease Gun, there is at least 3 more cylinders on that Shovel, sometimes it's worth taking a bit of time to sort the task ready for the next cylinder, if you had flame cut a hex in a bit of Steel (Scrap Iron) about 3 ft long and given it a whack with a 14 lb hammer it would have fled off easy, the $80 thing adds up some X4, I would not spend coins on something I have already like a rod nut, anyhow well done on getting the task sorted, as a point I have the Proper Socket and the proper tooling, but I don't have $80 to throw away. tctractors
Yep.....like I said.....I'm not arguing. You guys know a lot more than I do, so I'm sure you're right. And Like you, I don't have $80 to throw away either.....sometimes my lack of patience gets the better of me....
Well if you have the old nut with the melted nylon just find a nice thick chunk of steel and use the old nut as a pattern and fire up the torch! Even if you don't need it today if you keep this machine long you will need it some day.
The bit of plastic in the end of the nut Locks nothing, it just stops it falling off, the torque set of the nut locks it together, if I only had $80 . tctractors
We got our machine back together today & everything seems good after sending it out. TC.....a question for you.....if we make a home made nut from a piece of plate for such circumstances (easy for us to do that part) how do we go about torqueing it correctly when putting it back together, if our standard drives are a bit too light for the job? No real way to torque with a home made socket/ muscle bar & backhoe. Maybe the torque spec is not that important?
As Nige has suggested before if reusing the same piston it is simply a matter of marking the location of the nut prior to disassembly and tightening back up to the same place. If it didn't come loose previously it should probably be fine. I always add some red loctite as a form of of security.
My Dad used to torque props on DC-3's and 6's, torque was 1500# so they hung on a ten foot pipe off the wrench on the prop nut blocked the old radial engine to not roll thru and two 140+ pound men hung and bounced off the pipe until it stopped moving. Easy Peasy, torqued!! Could not get away with that today!