Buddy was using my loader and was trying to dig some large rocks out. Now the lower lip has been torn. Also has some cracks along the back cutting edge. Took it to a welding place which seem to have trouble coming up with a price to fix. Asked what was the max, and he even had trouble with that. Found a bucket on another loader which had caught on fire a few years ago, but it is a smaller bucket then mine (2 yard). I can weld, only issue is I'm not great at it. Appears it will need a lot of heat to get it back into position. Have looked around for another bucket but coming up empty so far. There is another shop in Tompkinsville KY that might be worth taking it to.
I'd check with another shop. It doesn't look like it would take too long to weld it and beef it up but sometimes on repairs there is no way to give an estimate. In your case I think the shop maybe has never done bucket repairs. I think with the right equipment less than half a day to fix and maybe only a couple hours with someone experienced.
Appreciate the insight
Biggest issue a welder will balk at is the time he will spend trying to get it back in place to make the patch work. There is no way I would guesstimate a time for that. Going to be expensive but cheaper than a bucket.
Have any thoughts on how I could get it back into position?
With the weight of the machine on the tooth get a couple of rosebud torchs on it. Prep the break before it closes up.
It looks to me like the cutting edge and teeth are straight and just the crack/gap needs to be paired. If you have to put down pressure on the tooth to hold it straight is OK too. More than power with the machines hydraulics. It might be best to cut a larger section out and make a replacement piece to fit in. Bevel the top side for penetration and after running a pass or 2 grind the backside out into the weld and weld it up for full penetration. You want someone with experience to weld it and I'd use stick rods, maybe something like 8018C-3 because it has 1% nickel to add toughness. It's a common rod for repairing crane booms. Some preheat wouldn't hurt for the cutting edge either. I can't see the cracks in the back of the cutting edge but just grind them out and weld with some preheat.
Thanks, guess I should have left it on the machine. Only reason to take it off was the local welder said he could do it, but when I brought it in there was a change
What do you mean by a change?
Bring it up to my nephew. He charges around 50$ an hour.
Heat and pound. The bigger the sledge the better. I would prep the corner first, and identify exactly where the bend it, the teeth don't look so good, and the probably the shanks should come off. I would turn the bucket upside down and brace it. Then find the bend and get that cherry. Rosebuds work fine, as to large propane brushburners. MARK your zones to heat with a soapstone or scratch marks. As for rod, I would just use 7018AC rod, since I have a BIG AC machine.
Nice rod oven, I only have 120v totes but they do well for my uses. Also very nice stick welder, I am getting really spoiled with my DC inverter welder.
Thanks, it was a very successful auction find...the cost of new leads and wiring on a new 100 amp dedicated circuit was more than the welder and oven!
He doesn't have the equipment to bend it back into shape. Discussed it further and can repair it if I can get it bent back into position. Will need to take the last shank off. If I get back then he will arc out the weld and build it back up. Says it will take about 3 days and about $800. Still looking for another bucket
I would talk to a different welder, for $800, that should include some new shanks and teeth and edge repair. I have a feeling the scope of the job is not well understood. You want the edge straightened and the corner reinforced. Vendors like ROMAC will sell you a prebent cutting edge to include side cutters and predrilled holes for the shanks. You should be able to find someone locally with experience in this type of work. A used 18" bucket for my JD 9300 backhoe attachment was $750, and it still needed new teeth and some repair. A good used bucket that size will be much higher than repair.
I'm not exactly sure what is bent. If it needs heat you need a rosebud. A propane weed burner type torch won't get it red hot. $800 and 3 days is ridiculous. If the shop doesn't have the right equipment, they are NOT the place to take it to. Please explain exactly what is bent. If the cutting edge is bent down, the machine should have enough power to push it straight. If the side is bent out a rosebud would be big help but even a big chain and boomer could pull it back if you added some bracing to the opposite side. Take some more pics. so it's easier to see what exactly is bent. I agree $800 should include a new cutting edge.
A propane brush burner will NOT get you to welding temp, but hot enough to bend. However, they are really good at PREHEAT and save your acetylene and oxygen for final heating to bright cherry. I do blacksmithing in a propane forge and that will get my tool steel to 1500F fairly easily. Perhaps if you can provide a new cutting edge, shanks and teeth to the welder, it would speed the job and bring the cost down. Here is a link to Romac http://www.romacparts.com/
The local welder is very good and has welded up many things for me in the past and cost has always been reasonable, if not low cost. Have another welding shop showing up today to get another opinion. Well take some more pics later, but the first pic shows the issue. The edge has been ripped open and it is cracked behind the tooth. The original 1 1/4 thick plate also has a previous patch on the side.
The other shop said if I get it bent back into position and remove the one tooth they could do it for 250. Guess we will put it back on the machine and give it a go. Need to get a rosebud tip for my victor
Probably layers of old build ups on that corner, not untypical and generally the reason these break as they do. While have it reformed and welded I would seriously dig around on the other corner for any leading up cracks, spray a little primer on it and allow to dry then look closely for hairlines, could catch the other side before gets this far.
From that last picture you can tell there was a whole lot of nuthin holding that together. I'd take the torch to some of that excess of weld, and cut a line out to the end of that crack. Grind back the cuts on the big sections so you can get penetration to most of the joint and clean up the slop from the cut. Heat it with a weed burner, lift the front of the tracks off the ground with a wood block under the edge on that side. Hit it with a sledge, alternated with heat until it's back into position. If the weight of the machine isn't enough, try putting blocks under the rear end, then lifting to put more weight on the bucket. If that still doesn't work, weld an I beam into the bucket for more bending leverage. This is as good a place to learn to weld as any. Do the root with 6010/6011 turned up hot enough to get good penetration, then 7018 or finish it with 60xx. Taking the shank off will make it much easier, just two new bolts. You don't need to do this perfect, just good enough to outlast the rest of the bucket, which looks like it will eventually succumb to rust if you don't bust the other side like DMiller mentioned.
Can use the shank bolt holes for a chain fall attachment while still using the machine weight to pull that edge back up then hold it in position to get it welded.
Yep, a ratchet type chain binder works good too. Weight of the machine + chain binder pulling it back together.
Great idea thanks
Plan to use the chain binder to keep it close once we get it close. Anyone know which rosebud tip will fit a victor WH411C handle. Have downloaded the tips from victor and it gives several tips but have not seen which one works for which. Also maybe what whould be a good choice for what I'm trying to do? Or maybe can I just get a tip to replace my cutting tip?
We find for thicker heating jobs that propane works much better than oxy-accet. The oxy-accet tends to backfire when it gets heating up & burns back inside the tip. Coincidently I checked into a propane heating setup about a month ago for a work associate & have some part numbers if interested & prices in CDN dollars. Pricy, but if you have serious heating to do, this will do it!
If propane works better I'm all for it, only issue is buying the stuff for a one time thing. I have 2 full 100 pound propane tanks so supply shouldn't be an issue. Will look into your part numbers.
Just looked up the part numbers, and I have the Praxair handle, only issue is it started to leak on the acetylene side so I bought the victor setup. Can find the regulator for $80 USD, and tip for $151. Have 25 ft of new hose, but still $200 for heat
If you were to obtain all of the parts on my list posted above, then the twin hose on the oxy side should just hook up to the output on your Victor regulator, as all outputs on the regulars are the same as far as I know.
It looks to me like the edge is bent and twisted about 1+ inches. I think a new edge is the way to go ,what you pay for the edge you will save in per/hr cost trying to straighten it Here are photos of a similar but smaller job I did for a guy that didn't want to buy a new edge.
So your saying all I need is the tip because it will connect to my victor. Also the regulators I have (Ox/Axe) will connect to the propane cylinder? Think (not sure) the new edge would cost $600 at least, then need to cut off and replace all the bolts/nuts holding the teeth, then remove and replace the edge. Think I would be looking around 2K when done.
No, you would need everything on my list that I sent earlier, except you could hook the twin hose (Propane/oxy) on the oxy side to your oxygen regular. You still need the propane regulator.
I don't think the heat is needed if you don't have the torch handy. Cut a line through the bent area and use the sledge to bend it back once you have the cutting edges straight and welded. If you have three chain binders and and chains, plus a big piece of angle or channel to go over the top of the bucket to keep the top from bending down, then you should be able to pull that back without heat. Edit: I thought propane and acetylene had the same threads, worth a look to see.
If you are getting backfiring and flashbacks with an acetylene rosebud, the number one cause is not enough acetylene and to a lesser extent oxygen pressure and then throttling the torch valves back. A large acetylene rosebud needs a big cylinder or 2 hooked together and the regulator needs to be set at 14-15 PSI. Backfiring and flashbacks are caused by the head of the rosebud getting too hot. It can happen from holding it too close but most people don't bother to turn the acetylene and oxygen pressures up and then don't open the torch valves enough. You don't want any carbon in the acetylene flame when using a rosebud. Acetylene at 15 and oxygen at 40 to 50 is good range. The higher oxygen pressure helps to cool the tip. A WH411C handle accepts Victor heavy duty heating tips. MFA series for acetylene or MFN series for propane. If you have a propane cylinder, all you need is the rosebud. Everything else will work for acetylene or propane. Grade T hose is best for propane if you don't have it but for the odd job grade R will work. $250 sounds more reasonable and a with a new edge $800 is more reasonable. Bolts aren't that expensive.
quote=]No, you would need everything on my list that I sent earlier, except you could hook the twin hose (Propane/oxy) on the oxy side to your oxygen regular. You still need the propane regulator.[/quote] I need everything on the list I can use what I have just need a MFN for propane or MFA for acetylene rosebud tip Now I'm really confused. Did notice in my research that it would take a lot of acetylene to use a rosebud. Would be nice to be able to use propane since it cost less and as before I have two 100 lb tanks.
Connection for most acetylene cylinders is the same as propane, CGA510 fuel gas. Propane runs higher pressure than acetylene and isn't nearly as critical as acetylene. There are some regulators specifically for propane but 98% of acetylene regs will work with propane no problem. Just need the propane rosebud. Same if you want to use propane for cutting, just put propane tips in.
That helps and could save me some coin for a one time use. I assume oxygen is also used with propane, and don't know what type of hose I have. Just using the ones that came with the first torch. Also have a new 25 foot set which came with the new victor
Here is a photo of my oxy-propane rig, the acetylene regulator will work for propane, but I invested in a propane specific regulator and propane rated hose. Then I ordered a MFM 8 and MFM 10 rosebud tips for my Victor Journeyman series handle. It will be in use this weekend on getting the clam straight after broken pins in the bottom cylinder mounts. Note custom welding cart.
I like it Checked my hose and both say acetylene only, 200 psig ARPMIP-7 and Grade R and RM
They recommend grade T hose for propane because over time propane can break down grade R hose. That being said, grade T hose is relatively new and propane has been around a long time. If you're going to do a lot with propane, get some grade T hose. If you just want to use propane for the rosebud to fix your bucket, the grade R will be fine.
Found it...the supplier for the MFN tip: A link to grade T welding hose: https://www.atlweldingsupply.com/co.../products/1-4-x-100-grade-t-twin-welding-hose and a generic rosebud tip for a Victor Journeyman handle, 300 series. WeldingCity.com 2870 North Berkeley Lake Rd. Unit 3 Duluth, Georgia 30096 United States Phone: 770.609.8032 Website: https://weldingcity.com/ Email: [email protected] Order #92461976 Status: Complete Date: 11/28/2016, 09:38 Payment method: Debit Credit Card Shipping method: USPS Priority Mail or UPS Shipping Customer: Howard Etkind Phone: 423-743-6200 Bill to: Howard Ship to: Howard Product Quantity Unit price Subtotal 10-MFN Propane/Natural Gas Heating Nozzle Rosebud for 300 Handle CODE: OXVC10MFN 1 $39.99 $39.99 Subtotal: $39.99 Shipping cost: $5.70 Total cost: $45.69
Sounds good, thanks BTW what would I set the regulators at for propane?
Might get the hose later, but do like the tip and will get it thanks for the info
I'm finding the MFN-10 tip says it needs to be used with 3/8 ID hose and HD310 handle
If you look at Tip Size #8 that is the same one that I mentioned yesterday, that was sent from our supplier. From what some of the others have mentioned it looks like you may be may be able to use an acetylene regulator for propane. I was not aware of that. We use propane regulators. More than one way to skin a cat I guess!
Totally understand, many things I'm still trying to get together. If I need a size 10 tip then guess I also need to buy the T hose. Also with the amount of O2 which will be needed, might need to get another tank (150/200 scfh). Never done thins before, so trying to figure it out before I start
My thoughts are if you buy one "K" size oxygen bottle that should be suffice to do the heating for the bucket repair at hand. Also, we use #8 propane tips for heating heavier plates then what your bucket cutting edge would be, so I believe that size will be adequate.
Cool, many thanks
As well once in hand the equipment is in house for other work.
Your link above is for 55 series heating tips not MFN. Here's what Victor recommends for pressures, scroll down to the MFN, MFN-1. You could use a #10 MFN. https://www.gasandsupply.com/docs/V...onal Welding and Heating Nozzles and Tips.pdf
OK, 10/30 O2 and 12/20 propane, and this does require 3/8 ID hose so that should help.
OK, been ten days, Update??
Sorry, haven't done much on it other then put the bucket back on to use the weight of the machine to help bend back. Do plan to get it done but to many other projects going on. I have this thread saved and will take pics and update when work starts back. Buddy1 (the one that broke the bucket) has a log home (I hate log homes) and was helping 2 of the days sanding, calking and sealing logs. Then bush hogged 4 days for another buddy2 to clean up has land. Has some large trees down and still need to cut them and move out of the way. Cut patio up with concrete saw one day, and the next day re-poured slab. Spent today back at buddy1 log home (did I mention I hate log homes) putting paint stripper on, then scraping it back off. Tomorrow I go to French Lick for a Niece's wedding (I get to rest and drink beer, Yeh me)
Forgot, also tore down and replaced the drive way steps.
Sounds like a good busy week!!
Been another busy week, but did order the MFN10 from Welding City on Oct 3th and they just sent me an email saying "They Might Have it by Next Month" My reply was you said "might" so if I wait till next month they could say again, they might have it again. I cancelled the order and see if I can find it somewhere else
Shouldn't be hard to find one at a welding supply.
Well was getting and disconnected the Acetylene and the fitting doesn't make the propane. The axe tank is right hand threads and propane is left hand also. What am I missing?
A propane regulator should have a male coupler, a MAPP gas regulator thread used to be the same as acetylene.
I have a reg which is used from my 100 pound tank but do not have any way of adjusting. Could remove the adapter going to it and then remove the fitting off current reg, but don't really want to do that Starting to think Bls had the right idea. Have 125 in a MFN 10 tip, 40 for a hose, a propane reg for 100, welding for 250, now add propane and all the work to get the edge straight and were well over 500 and still might need some other stuff.
If you can't get bent good enough ,you can cut into pieces fit till your happy. V out joints weld solid
For your fuel gas supply try this: check to see if your propane fitting on your tank is CGA 510. If it is you will need a CGA 410 Male (to fit your regulator nut) x CGA 510 Male to fit your propane tank. See link below. I have been told that you can use an acetylene regular for propane but have never done it. https://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?::1:WLDWH:1:312=1516 Hope this helps.
That looks like the adapter I would need
Read what it says in the link. The CGA410 is an acetylene specific fitting and is only used by Air Liquide (Canada). CGA510 is used on everybody else's acetylene and propane. CGA 510 is a left hand thread fuel gas fitting and not a specific acetylene fitting like the CGA410. 95%+ of regulators come with a CGA510 fitting that will thread into a propane cylinder.
My Ax tank regulator is like what is in the pic posted previous and will not fit the propane tank. The propane tank does use what appears to be the cga510 with left hand threads. Probably going to buy another regulator, but should also find out what a new cutting edge would be. Need to measure the edge because I don't see a listing by loader (2 yd bucket)
The reg. in pic. on the last page looks to be a male CGA510. GGA410 nut is female.
Sorry my reg pic post 58
That could be a CGA410 but if it's left hand thread should have notches on the corners of the hex to indicate it's left hand thread. You can get an adaptor or just get a CGA510 nut and nipple and change it. It might be a CGA300 that used to be used on commercial acetylene and has right hand thread..
I know its a drive but if you want to bring the bucket by my shop i will weld it back together for you for free. I use 5/32 7018 rods. If the machine were here, I would fill the bucket with dirt then clean it away from the cracked area. Use the machines force and weight of the bucket sitting on a well placed metal pipe which is welded to a flat base or metal plate sitting straight onto the ground or concrete. It will more than likely close the gap. If not I would cut a small piece of square bar and just close the gap and weld the heck out of it. Repair is done in mostly likely a few hours and you can buy lunch. If you just bring the bucket we will just close the gap using a 953 . I have had good luck with heating an area with just a torch tip also, a rose bud is better but just a torch and 16 lb hammer will work.
My reg has left hand threads Georgia thanks that is a tempting offer, thanks, have to think about it. Appears to be a 4hr drive and if done it would just be the bucket, don't have anything that can haul 32K pounds. If done would be a long day for sure. Would buy more then lunch for sure.
Any update?
Sorry, still getting side tracked on other issues, also since it is unusable this means nothing else gets damaged. Pretty sure I'm going to replace the blades. Got a quote from Equipment Blades for $564.92 and 100 ship. CAT wants all most 800 just for the blades. Need to send a response back to find out if the shipment include shipping to a non-business address. I have enough room for a 53 trailer to turn around and a forklift, but some want a real business address
Ordered the blades, said it will be 3 to 4 weeks to get here
Probably slow boat from Japan. In Blades you mean cutting edges?
Yep, on both accounts
Take your time cutting the old stuff away, cut from the existing edge not the bucket pan, get the heavy crap off and should be able to 'adjust' the pan back into shape pretty easy. Weld a couple angle irons to the pan and backboard where you do not wish movement.
I like the idea, but I'm not going to remove the sides only the cutting edge. Your pic I'm seeing the side were removed or am I missing something. Don't plan on getting real close to the edge of the edge to bucket. Figure I'll leave that for the welder
I think he is just showing you how to brace it
Ask your welder, he may decide to brace it to keep it from distorting too badly as he sews the new edges back on. I did mine to keep the desired roll while removing and installing the side panels, should have added a third to center as does have a slight up curl to center.
OK thanks, I'll contact the welder before I cut it off
I just came across this thread and i have used chains and rachet binders many times to make this same repair. Using a rose bud helps but there is so much there to heat it takes tons of gas. I dont know that propane would work well as its just not as hot and its very dificult to get enough heat in it using actelyne. I got a cutting edge from a local supplier cheap and cut segments out of it on my metal bandsaw and welded in between the shanks as a quick fix way to get a little more life out of my lip before i do a total replace and bucket rebuild. The nice thing is it moved the cutting edge down closer to the bottom of the shanks and really improved the performance of the bucket. If i everrplace my lip im going to make sure i can use removable segements between the shanks.
Nice job Keep thinking about my edges and this makes 4 weeks since the order was placed. Will wait till after Jan 1, and if nothing will look further into it
That was a real slow boat, edges came in today. They are 44 inches long, so 88 total and I'm wondering if they are long enough. When it stops raining I'll have to go take a measurement. Called the welder and waiting on a call back. Not in a hurry so maybe wait but will see how things go
Pretty sure those are bolt on cutting edges
The bucket has 8 bolt on teeth and there are places for 4 on each of these. I have bolt on type on my 416 and the edge is about 6 inch wide, these edges are at least 12 inches wide and about 1 inch thick
I believe the 955L GP bucket that we have on the machine is 90" wide overall +- an inch.
That sounds good to me Just talked to the welder and he can cut off the old edge in about 30 minutes, would take me longer then that I think
The one you want is a weld on edge
Are the sides tapered?
Agree I want a weld on edge, and I used the CAT part number to order (even though it came across the pond) from Equipment Blades. Both edges have about a 45 degree edge on them
If you look at your bucket the original cutting has two holes for the teeth,one towards the front one towards back . The original edge was one piece ,no weld joint in the center. What do they call them on invoice?
The taper on both sides is so when you wear out one side you can flip it around and have a new edge
Damn, your right, there should be two holes. Need to contact the folks Invoice says 1U1471
Just talk to the guys and this is a bolt on edge as you said. I need to call CAT tomorrow and find out was it me that messed up or the system. Won't be the first time, and sorry to say won't probably be the last
What you have is bolt on replaceable cutting edge. What you need is a weld on cutting-edge with holes for teeth. You will have to measure the distance between holes and size
It’s better to catch it early rather then mess the wrong edge up and have to buy another one
Right now its probably my fault and will need to buy another edge.
You may be able to switch between replaceable c-e and teeth if holes line up.
What is C-E and teeth? Clint at E Blades says this is a hardened edge and would not be easily welded
The c-e is replaceable cutting edge. If you want to scrape something smooth like asphalt you could take the teeth off and put on the c-eon if the holes line up . This will save wear and tear on the weld on edge . This if you can’t return it.
As far as welding bolt on edge not recommended
As far as welding bolt on edge not recommended
I don't see me using the edge unless I can use it. I'm a farmer kind of guy and use the loader to clear trees, brush and dig holes, so I need teeth. Starting to look like I need to get a 88 to 90 inch piece of steel and weld it in place, or something else
You can look up weld on cutting-edges.Use your measurements and and bolt hole dimensions and see what you can find.
Called CAT and it comes down to I messed up (AGAIN). The bucket is 8K7865 which is a 2.25 smooth edge bucket to pick up loose material. Original edge was 8K-7524 and is no longer made, and also from them looking they found other numbers but no ones appears to make it. The PO must have fabricated the edge and installed teeth. I can find the teeth group and all parts are available but also are used on many other edges. Started looking for 88.5 inch weld on edge, but going to need some more measurements to narrow it down. Most edges are shorter then the 88.5 Anyone need 2 - 1U1471 edges? Guess I get something fabbed and install it, but I still want teeth so it can dig
If I remember (old timers) I will ask who we use at work .I think it’s bucket supply.
Thanks
The guys at Equipment Blades just sent me a drawing for part number 5V7437 and looks like what I need, but need to measure to make sure. Its 88.5 long, 9.646 wide, 1.0 thick and bolt holes are 10.6 apart for 8 teeth
What is the distance between the holes of the teeth?
Need to measure that, its not on the drawing but the piece appears to be the same as used on other buckets. That said the "same as used on others" get me in trouble, I need to measure
Appears (using that word again) that the tooth adapter is 8J2929 Bolts 8J2928 Nut 8J2933
For info here is the drawing
All numbers match up?
Cleaner than the scrappers I bought locally. Guy no longer wanted them taking up space. Old Wheeled loader bolt on edges and worked well welded on my repair project.
May need some ar 400 for side plates
You were able to weld the hardened bolt on edge to regular steel? If this could be done I'm good, but think it would be to thick to bolt my teeth (2 bolts) and there is only 1 hole per placement I did find part number 5V7437 in the Draco catalog, but it list no holes.
Welds have a tendency to crack.
Used 7018 rod one root two finish passes, has been good so far just watching as is used. Did not have teeth bolt holes where needed, those are also welded in place again non issue so far. If look, the old cutting edge was welded in on your own bucket by Cat.
Guess this is another option, don't no. Drill/cut 1 inch holes to bolt edge under the original edge, then maybe weld the teeth to the steel edge. I weld but I'm not a welder. Sent an email to Draco but no response. If I'm going to install a regular steel edge that I get from a steel yard, guess I might as well just buy enough to replace whats bent and not the whole thing. Then just add some reinforcement
So long as you do not overheat the hardened cutting edge welding does not hurt it. The welds will be from the lighter sheet of the moldboard to the edge just as at the factory a non-issue. Try to locate an edge with the correct bolt holes, boltings do come loose but not stressing by welding the teeth on.
We routinely weld up grader blade ends with the leftovers to beef up the ends for curb guards. Cracking is never an issue. 7018 preheat and peen after welding
Look to this post, Metalman 55 did a bangup job rebuilding his 941 bucket, should give a few pointers as to where you need go. HeavyEquipmentForums
Agree, I posted a few times during this thread and Metalman does great work, but this was to repair the heel. The way my bucket is, it to could use some added metal in the area.
Welding was right along the rear edge of the cutting edge. NON Issue.
Any updates?
Nothing yet, need to make it to Sandusky Steel to see if they have something OR ..... I'm going to try to bend it back. Kind of getting disappointed with the whole issue. I will fix it, but with it being so cold and I don't need it right now, its not high on the list. If I could find another bucket (w/ teeth) at low enough price I could get it and take my hardened edge and replace it on my old bucket.
Get your bucket welded yet?
Not yet, some day. When I get it fixed, the same guy wants to use it some more, so I'm not in a big hurry, but will get it fixed. Was given another welder name in Columbia and haven't called yet. Not putting the guy in T-ville as inferior, this guy owns a big construction outfit and this is who he uses. Need to call to see what his capabilities are. He is installing pipe in my area and I'm hauling rock out to fill a whole I've been working on for 10 years. Found another 955L for sale on CL for 30K, never thought they would sell for that. Do like that his bucket has outside teeth https://louisville.craigslist.org/hvo/d/cat-955l/6522917186.html This one I looked at after the bucket was damaged. Its in rough shape, and has been picked at. See it as scrap iron only https://louisville.craigslist.org/hvo/d/cat955-12aloaderparts-machine/6502313495.html
That does sound quite high for price. I purchased this 955L about 2 years ago for $12,000 CDN & it is a good running machine. It was an exceptional buy though, I think. Once in a while we get lucky I guess!
What’s up with track on left and covers in buckets?
Don't know why I didn't think of this before but just had a brain fart. I have a backhoe and thinking I could place the bucket inside the hoe, and use the bucket to move it back into place. Issue I see is, after moving it back in place, what's going to keep it there. Maybe a chain and binder
Just saw the track issue, the covers are the final sprocket and recoil spring covers, I suspect this one a pig in a poke with adjuster or recoil damage and NOT worth $30k, also looks a little lean on shoes and maybe rails. The junker at $2200 is just stupid, be lucky if a salvager would give $1000. They call the corner teeth Bits. If not mistaken look like Hensley units corner bits and main teeth.
Good to know, thanks
Between the backhoe, Propane rose bud and a chain binder, think I git it ready enough to weld. Might have gotten it a tad closer if I would have used the ox-axe to cut some of the old metal away. Now just need to get it over to T-ville to get it repaired
Whoever is doing the welding may gouge it out for lay in welds, that will relieve it as well. Should do fine once back in altogether.
Definitely cut or gouge the bad steel out and work off good thick steel even it means having to weld some and grind it back out filling the gaps. If not repaired properly will open up again in short order. Might have to weld a brace to hold everything place while you remove the damaged steel.
I'm hoping the guys at S&H welding know what their doing. They did say it would be gouged out and welded
How is the bucket repair going?
Still waiting, appears to be waiting for everything. Just called and there was no answer so left a message Seems no one calls anymore, they appear to expect you to call them Same thing happened with a mower I ordered. Been 1.5 weeks and I called them today. They tell me it just came in today and they are putting it together. Asked if they thought I would get it this week, and the guy says maybe
Bet they answer when you owe them money.
There are downsides of having a full economy...
Both good ones and do agree
Well, just got a call and said the bucket is ready. Will go get it tomorrow and post some pics.
Either they are just swamped or are debating how they are gonna perform the work. Many of the weld shops here are absolutely overwhelmed. OOPS, just saw is done!! They were most likely just backlogged with work.
They did tell me they were starting to move up the road to a bigger building. Will find out tomorrow if they moved
They were at same place but they were in process of moving They welded across the entire edge under neath. Add some sping steel in 4 places where the wear spots are. I should have taken pics while it was lifted but forgot until it was lowered back on my trailer. The last pic is where they welded up the other edge which was not cracked through
Only had to be as weak as the other side, they did you quite the favor doing both sides.
These guys were great, and get this it only cost $202.50 or just under 4 hours. I told the guy all they did was worth more then that. He just said this is all the time we had in it, so that's all we charge
It looks like they welded it with MIG. Stick or flux-core would have been better but if they cleaned everything and burned hot it should be OK. Keep an eye on it.
I was actually thinking they were going to make a wider Vee and then fill. I had another look at it, and it almost looks like the gap is as close as I was able to get it, when it was brought to them. Could have got closer, but I would have had to gouge out some of the metal. Sure hope it holds
If there was a gap could explain why it was Mig welded and a lower cost than expected because they didn't try to close the gap any tighter than you already had it. I guess you'll find out if holds. I'd rather wait a little longer than have a shop try to fit it in without fully assessing what all needs to be done. Maybe an extra 1/2 hour or hour they could have got it closer but instead they rushed through it.