I have a 955H track loader that has started giving me problems. When I last parked it, I noticed white smoke coming from the stack and an excessive amount of black smoke when I rolled into the throttle. I thought that I might have an injector going and then forgot about it. Today, I started it up and it ran OK until I started working it hard. Lots of black smoke, about 40% of normal power and a constant flow of white smoke at idle. I walked around to look for anything obvious and did notice that the oil is above the full mark and very clear/clean. There was a good bit of white smoke coming out of various leaks around the turbo. I shut the machine off and heard the turbo spin down for about 5 seconds, then stop. I'm thinking turbo, but that doesn't explain the clear and excessive oil (I use red fuel). The engine is a D330T. Any help would be appreciated.
Check air filter
Does the engine oil smell of fuel..?
Oil level coming up sure sounds like fuel getting in the oil. While you're at it how are the other fluid levels? Transmission, hydraulic and coolant. And while we're at it how about a S/N on the off chance SIS has some information to look at.
I couldn't detect a smell on the oil. It didn't smell like oil or diesel - just neutral. I'll find somebody with a better sniffer to take a wiff. The trans has water mixing with the oil!! I got all kinds of problems! S/N is 60A3614
So I pulled the air filter and for only having 50 hours since I installed it, it was surprisingly dirty. I started the machine w/o it to see if it would still smoke. When I opened the throttle up I pushed about 3 gallons of oil out of the turbo. I think I found my problem.
You may have found A problem, but by the sounds of it your voyage of discovery is only just beginning........
I think you're right. I'm sure I will find several more on the way. Can I plug the oil line to the turbo and move the machine 500 yds??. Where it is sitting, it is going to be difficult to work on. If I can move it to the shop (about 200' down hill and 400' uphill) life will be much easier. I realize this will damage the turbo (to run it w/o an oil supply), but I don't think I can do much more damage to it. Will this damage anything else??
I wouldn't advise running it without an oil feed to the turbo, the last thing you want is bits of compressor wheel getting into the engine. If you remove the turbo altogether and plug the oil feed it shouldn't be too much of a problem provided you're mindful of not letting any dirt get sucked in to the intake.
Same here. Block the oil lines and pull the turbo off completely if you only want to move the machine a few hundred feet.
Is there a reason why you can't just pull it to your shop area?
I'm trying to avoid pulling the turbo where it is. All the bolts are rusty and I can see lots of busted knuckles in my future. If I get it close to the shop, I can run an air line out to it. Never thought about pulling it. My dump truck is the only thing I have that would pull it. I'll need to get a load of dirt in it for traction. I should only lose a quart or 2 of oil, starting it to raise the bucket.
I've never tried it, but I suppose you could try jamming something in the turbo to stop it spinning and plug the oil line. It would have no power and smoke like a steam train, but it may get you to where you want to be.
When my H did something similar to this ,I found at some point before me it had dropped a valve and damaged the piston. They had put on a new head but not a piston . Piston holed and sent a piece through the turbo taking it out too.
You are just full of good news!!
I would NOT recommend jamming anything in the turbo, another little feature is the seals are dynamic, needs to be rolling to seal oil off. Run it puking oil or pull it off before driving it natural aspirated.
If the nuts that are holding the turbo on are that bad the studs are probably going to snap any how so why not just snip them now with a torch and be done with it. Cap off the oil line with what ever you have and move the beast.
Or pull the exhaust manifold off
I have a feeling that might involve a few more nasty rusted nuts, but if one is careful with a torch they may come off with out breaking the studs. Just be sure to wear hearing protection as I have a feeling it will be noisy! One good thing about running with manifold off would be that if there is a problem in one cylinder it would be easy to spot, "been there done that"!
I managed to get it to the shop puking oil all over me. About 2 gallons worth to get it 500'. Turbo is off and the wheel is into the housing. A place in MI thinks they can put one together for me. I'm tearing into my parts machine, but the turbo may not be any good - gotta clean the bird's nest out of it to know for sure! Air tools were worthless removing the turbo as the bolts had rusted and were not 1/2",9/16", 12mm, 13mm or 14mm. I did get it off without the "hot wrench". I'm having the same problem on my parts machine and it is a 1/4 mile from the shop. I think I will get the hot wrench for that one.