Hey everyone! This is a great forum! I'm almost done reparing my new (old) 955K for some actual usage (still need to turn the tracks around). She starts and runs fine but most of my guages don't appear to work. My fuel pressure guage works great, it's all the rest that don't appear to work. I've not let it run long enough to warm up much so am not sure about the temp guages. I was wondering if any of you know about the oil pressure and other guages. I need to unbolt the cover and see if they are hooked up (I assume they are but...).
Assuming these are all electric gauges instead of tubes, the gauge is supplied with battery voltage on one terminal and sends that voltage to the pressure/temp sender that's screwed into the oil gallery, or the thermostat housing, or wherever. The sender varies the resistance to ground with pressure/temp. One way to test is to ground the wire at the sender, either disconnect it and touch to ground, or use a test lead to connect it to ground. If the gauge moves then the sender is probably defective and the wiring and gauge are probably fine. If the gauge doesn't move then start at the other end and see if the gauge is getting and sending voltage.
Thanks Delmer. Do you know where the oil pressure gauge connects to the engine?
Not Delmer here but a Serial Number always helps narrow things down. While on the subject of S/N's any way to get an ICON added to the ones available with the little guy holding a sign saying "What's the S/N?" or something of that nature. I know it's easy to think that if it's yellow and says 955K or 980G on the hood they are all the same, but engineers love to make changes to prove they are doing something and the only way to catch them is to go by S/N.
Lack of any real information never stopped me from spouting off before so why stop now. Usually the oil pressure sender is mounted low on the engine, about at the level as the crankshaft or the horizontal "vein" cast into the block. That's the oil passage and the SENSOR/SENDER is threaded into the end away from the oil filter, TYPICALLY.
It is an 85j s/n
If you want to see pictures, see my other thread on this forum I have lots of pictures there. I rebuilt the tilt cylinders, replaced the tilt cylinder lines, rebuilt the shifting linkage, and replaced the hydraulic oil and filter and changed the transmission fluid so far. I still need to take the tracks off and reverse them as someone put them on backwards. I also stillneed to rebuild the track pensioners.
Who are you referring to? Social security age members that like to bet on the ponies?
Not the ones that like to bet on the ponies, just those that lose when they bet on ponies!
Well hate to be a pain but just for general information when I looked up 85J I come up with this selection of S/N's to look at: 00001-04671, 04672-06246, 06247-09509, 09510-10173, 10174-10969, and 10970-up just for starters. That does not consider that within any one of those groups there could have been running changes made on some things. To try to narrow it down I did look at the earliest and latest groups and it does look like the oil pressure gauges were always mechanical style. Parts break down is not real clear but it does appear that the pick up point of engine oil is at the back of the block, note when I say back that is the flywheel end. Appears to be either a small hose or line below the head and above the flywheel housing.
The oil pressure gauge union is on the back end of the cylinder block that is pipe connected up to the gauge, its on the L/H side as sat in the seat just below the cylinder head. tctractors
Thanks guys! When the rain stops (hopefully this afternoon), I'll take a look to see if it is all connected.
Well, ignore what I said about the electrical, unless the temp gauges are electrical. If the temp gauges are a capillary tube then those are even more touchy. The mechanical oil pressure gauge is either disconnected or the gauge is broken, once you're sure it's hooked up, could apply air pressure to see if the gauge moves, then tap it with the air pressure applied, nothing to lose. You can try the same thing with capillary tube temp gauges, put the sender in hot oil, 300 F, and tap the gauge to see if it breaks loose.
Ken, from looking at a previous thread the OP mentioned his machine is 85J02xxxx, so that would put it into the 85J00001-04671 Serial Number group.
Ok, I see that now. And like I said in this case it appears that all the various incantations of this 85J do use the same mechanical gauge set up so S/N is not critical. I guess I was just trying to make the point that the more information one supplies the better the answer will be. Where I worked company had a few 769D trucks. One might think they would be pretty much the same at least the basic layout of components. One of our sister quarries had a guy run one of the 769D's off a 50 foot face. Guy was belted in and worst injury was to his future with the company. Anyhow we had a 769D that had a fuel tank that was rusting out on the side towards the rear wheels. I asked the boss to see if the wrecked truck had a good tank, they said it looks fine. Figured that's simple bolt on fix for us! When I get there to pick it up find out this 769D has the tank mounted on the opposite side as ours and the hydraulic tank is more like that on a 769C with the converter using the hydraulic oil and the transmission using a small separate tank where our 769D has the transmission and converter using the same oil in the sump of the converter housing and the hydraulic a completely separate system for either of those. So if one was to try to give advice on a 769D without the correct S/N the person needing the advice could get a very wrong answer. I'll put the "soap box" away now!
I couldn't agree more. There are often so many versions of any given model that without detailed info it's often hard to make recommendations without sometimes getting caught out.
Nigel is right, my S/N is 85J 29XX. Below is a pic of why the oil pressure guage does not work! It is not hooked up. View attachment 140578 I assume it is supposed to be connected to the point just behind the block, correct? Now here is my new problem. When I was under it looking at how to put the belly pan on that I purchased, I noticed an oil drip. After looking closer, the housing just behind the transmission rubber joints has a small crack in it where something big was hit (look at the pic with the housing and look just between the two lines on the left side). I also included a couple of close-ups. When I pulled a small fleck of something out of it, the drip got worse! I used some form-a-gasket (the kind that does not harden) to seal it temporarily. Is this hard to take off and fix? Can it be welded (on or off the loader) or can I use some sort of 2-part epoxy and seal it? Any ideas? I did replace 3 of the 4 rubber disks for the tranny connection. I included some pics of the old ones too! I need to purchase one more when I get a chance.
So the drip is actually coming from the crack, right..?
yes, in photo 1 it is between the lines on the housing, in photo 3 it is the crack depicted in the middle of the photo, in photo 4 it's the clean spot towards the bottom of the photo.
That's a very good reason! I'm just making a wild guess but think you will find there is a leak in that line going to the gauge. I'd try hooking air to it to see where it is to avoid making a big mess with oil.
Shows why we have belly guards on machines like this one then doesn't it ...?
Yes, belly guards are useful. That's why I bought one. Unfortunately the previous owner was not be bright! Does anyone know how hard it is to take that cover off and whether or not it can be welded? Regarding the oil pressure line, II will try the air pressure test before hooking it up. Thanks again guys!
See the illustration below, it's a view from the LH side of the machine. The flexible coupling is located in the blue circle centre left. Is the crack located on the transmission case in the area of the red circle and approximately how long does it appear to be..? If the idea is to weld the crack (that housing should be weldable BTW, but to do so successfully needs access from both inside and outside of it) then IMHO the transmission has to come out and be partially disassembled to give access to both sides of the crack. The housing is not a stressed component so there may be a possiblity of using something like a Dremel to make a V-shaped groove along the length of the crack and try to seal it using a 2-pack epoxy sealer. However I've never tried doing something like that on a crack like yours. Maybe other members can throw in some opinions.
Yes, the crack is where the red circle is at. It is about 2 inches long (the one that is leaking). there is also one about 2 inches away that is parallel to the one that is leaking. It looks as if something square in shape may have hit the case, cracking one area enough to cause a leak and the other side just enough to have a hair-line crack. I have some JB Weld, 2 part epoxy that I was going to try if the housing is too hard to remove. See my earlier top picture, the shaft that you circle in blue on mine appears about 6 inches long. I was wondering if it unbolts somehow from a different shaft that appears your picture as smaller. If so, I was wondering what I would have to do to remove the casing that you made a red circle on. Thanks a bunch for all your help!
That flange is splined and slides off of the torque converter input shaft after you remove the round rubber biscuits. You may want to replace the input shaft seal if you take it apart. If it were my machine, I would try the JB Weld first. My .02
JB weld, or even silicone RTV-Permatex black etc. Of course it needs to be clean, and that almost certainly means draining the oil, and/or maybe parking on a slope so the oil doesn't pool in that spot, grind the paint off with a carbide burr and clean it with air and brake cleaner.
I repaired a similar crack about 4 inches long in a log skidder transmission a few years ago. It leaked badly, a gallon an hour or more. I parked it with one end up on the log pile, drained the transmission down somewhat and cleaned up the crack with starter fluid. I then V'd it a bit with a dremel tool and used JB weld to seal it. It was about 15 degrees outside outside so I preheated the area to about 70 degrees and then let the generator run all night with a 500 watt quartz lamp on it three inches away to keep it warm to cure. Knock on wood, but its still holding so far.
It seems as though JB weld is becoming your preferred option. The only thing I would say is that you're going to have to get it really clean, probably using brake cleaner after first removing all the paint. I would personally do it at the same time as you are changing the transmission oil because that will empty the case. I'm not sure exactly where the oil level is in that housing, it may be possible to park the machine on a slope so that the oil runs away from the crack but that's your call. Maybe a bit of heat from something like a blowlamp will drive out whatever oil is in the crack and let you get a really good bond to the metal of the case. And once you get the crack free of leaks - fit the belly guard ..........
Thanks everyone for the advise. I will try the JB Weld first. Unfortunately, I already changed the transmission oil and filter so I will see if I can start it and use the bucket to lift the front end off the ground far enough to get the oil level towards the back of the tranny. I have some 6x6s that I will throw under the front to make sure it stays up.
Here is an update for everyone. After replacing another line, the short one that connects the steel under-belly line through the frame connection for the left lift cylinder and draining the transmission oil to use JB Weld on the crack, I was able to use the machine for the first time ! I'll try to post some pics later. So far, it appears to have worked! Now for the next issue:Banghead ! After running it for about 30-45 minutes, my speed going backwards appeared to slow down. I was cutting about a 8% grade for a drive way to a soon-to-be addition to my garage. I was shoveling down the hill and reversing up the slope as I was cutting it. I was only running about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle so I was babying her. I had to add 10 gallons of hydraulic oil to the hydraulics and 5 gallons to the transmission. I used 303 trans-hydraulic oil in both. Both appeared to be full when I filled them. I'll check the transmission fluid later this morning (got dark on me last night). By the way, if I did not state it lately, this forum is great .