Purchased my first yellow toy recently and was looking for some information. It goes something like this: Picked up a CAT 963 made in about 1987. It has what appears to be a “genuine” 6,500 hrs and looks to be in fair condition for its age. I haven’t owed a trackloader before and would welcome some knowledge from others experiences. The previous owner has assured me all the fluids and filters have recently been done….,,, fairly!….. recently!. So I have made the decision I need to just do all the fluids and filters to know what I’m starting with. I have done a little work (~50hrs) since taking possession and have a few queries; 1. Hydrostatic drive. I’m about to do the filter and fluids for the first time. I have been looking at stuff online at https://safety.cat.com/cda/layout?m=388662&x=7 and reading stuff here. The transmission and pumps currently have 15/40w engine oil from the previous owner. (SOS oil tests came back good with pre-purchase inspection ). I have noticed the travel speed of the machine is consistently quite slow regardless of the RPM. Machine tracks fairly strait backwards and forward. Great pushing power and will continue to operate the hydraulics fairly, under load and spin the tracks without overload on the engine from the sound/feel of it. It has started to feel slower lately at full travel speed…. There has also been increasing frequency of slowing from travel speed to stop (without engine RPM decrease) and then steady acceleration to the slow travel speed again. Slowing the Engine RPM doesn’t appear to make the machine speed up again. Oh please don’t let it be……… not the big $$$ end of the thing….OH NO!!...:Banghead.... I have been reading a bit on this very informative site (Great work everyone!:drinkup) and fear the worst may be in store. So these recent events have strongly encouraged me to change all the fluids and filters on the machine and see if this is the silver bullet. So a few of these queries to you all. Do I need the “Pipe Tool” to open the transmission drain valve??? Cat dealer could sell me the Nipple but said the Bushing was no longer available. Any suggestions? Replacement oil. I had initially thought heaver would be better and the CAT online stuff about Lubricant Specifications and Viscosities helped me validate this when I spoke to the local CAT dealer and ordered the oils and filters. I ordered CAT TDTO SAE 30 oil initially as they don’t stock in OZ a 20 weight. (Justification for the 30w: it is often in the high 30 degC to low 40’s here. Hot, dam hot! ) After the recent go-slow-escapades and reading a bit more I have now rung back and changed the order to a lighter 10 weigh of TDTO…?? Maybe it is just a viscosity and filter issue. Will check the peddle adjustment when tilting the cab and lube these on dropping the cab. The middle (OH ***!:cool2) peddle requires very little movement to stop the machine so will pay special attention here. How much play should the middle peddle have? Is there any other major tricks with the cab tilt and hydrostatic/pump fluid/filter changes? 2. Hydraulics. What weight hydraulic oil? Previous owner has 68 in it. CAT has recommended HYDRO ADV 10w.??... Do I go with the 10w?? It is an older machine and has a few slight drips from the rams and bucket 4in1. I am a bit worried the 10w will pour out in comparison to the 68’s tolerable drip. 3. I have just ordered as well a CTek MTX14, 24 volt charger. Anyone had much luck with these? 4. Track adjustment appears OK at present. How much sag is acceptiable? I am looking at keeping this machine for as long as practicable on my farm in Oz. I don't plan to do huge amounts of work strait off and hopefully the older non-ECU/electronics machine will serve me well over the next many years... Cheers! :drinkup
Where did you read about needing TDTO in the transmission? I have never come across a 963 that needed anything other than HYDO 10W. As far as the enviro drain is concerned, remove the plug, push up the plastic valve with your finger and jam a small screwdriver in it to keep it open.
Hi Cmark, The Hasting Deering guy in Brisbane told me "the computer said" use a Transmission Drive Train Oil (TDTO). Hence my query to the group. I have no experience with the hydrostatic setup on these loaders and just want to check I'm getting the right advice. So please confirm. Your understanding is I should use Hydro Advanced 10w in the transmission and pumps? Do you know the volumes off hand? They have also sold me TDTO 50w for the final drives. Does this sound right to you? Thanks for the tip on the valve drain. Much appreciated!! Any and all advice welcome. So much to learn
Tell Hastings Deering to ***k off ...... The viscosity recommendations for the 963 for Queensland ambient temperatures would be: - 1. Engine - 15W/40. 2. Hydrostatic Transmission - Hydo 10W. 3. Hydraulic System - Hydo 30 (or as someone already put in it in in your case - ISO AW68, they are as close as damnit is to swearing the same viscosity) 4. Final Drives - TDTO 50. Just to explain, lots of other options are available for oil for different ambient temperatures but I picked the ones that appeared to be most suitable for your geographic location. It's interesting to note that the other listed options for the transmission are all lighter than 10W Edit: TDTO 10W will do your transmission no harm AFAIK. TDTO contains additives for multiple disc brakes/clutches that are not required for your transmission but those additives will not be detrimental to its operation. We used to only use TDTO 10W rather than have two 10W oils (TDTO & hydraulic) on the property and run the risk of someone putting a hydraulic oil in a compartment that needed the additional additives contained in the TDTO oil. Over many years I saw no ill-effects of using TDTO 10W in hydraulic systems including drive systems.
Yes. My experience is you should use HYDO 10W in the tranny and pump drive. TDTO 50 is correct for the finals. Do I know the volumes off hand? No. But I and the other good people of the forum can easily tell you, if you please tell us your serial number.... please? Please?
Please see the photos for some assistance. Cheers!
Your approximate refill capacities are; Engine; 19L Tranny; 62L Pump drive; 3.8L Final drives; 11.5L each Hydraulic; 60L Radiator; 34L Fuel; 261L
By the way regarding track tension. Your right side looks about right. Don't let your left side get any looser than this. Note these comments are for reference only. To properly check the tension, get the machine on reasonably firm ground, run it in a straight line for some distance, let it coast to a stop and then check the tension referring to these photos. (The official procedure involves measuring tensioner rod protrusion and gets a bit wanky for my liking.)
You need to think of a hystat drive as a hydraulic system not transmission. Later Bob
To add with the drain plug for the transmission, most of the time it isn't necessary to jam a screwdriver in the hole when you push the plastic part up, I push it up and wiggle it to the side so it catches on the side of the pan. Make sure you have an adequate drain pan! 63's hold a significant amount of oil in the transmission.
Ive never put anything but 10w in the hydrostatic or in the hydraulic tank. The fill for hydrostatic should be about 15 gallons and for your hydro tak should be 20gal U.S gallons. Its a nice looking tractor for its age