my roller frame got loose and the final started leaking so I'm replacing the seals.Everything else looks good but the sprocket was loose on the hub,I think it may be worn too much to press back on.I don't want to spend the $ to replace the hub.Is there a lasting solution?I have bought after market duocone seals does anyone know if they last very long or am I wasting my time with them.
In my opinion aftermarket seals give about half the life of CAT oem, at a quarter the cost. Typically seals don't wear out, something else does and you replace the seals while you're in there. YMMV.
That has been my experience too. I can buy most after market parts at about 50-70% savings over oem.Does anyone have experience with the loose hub I mentioned?
You've already posted on tctractors' thread about sprocket pulling. I suggest that you should go back to that thread and post a link to this one and ask for advice. Be prepared and post some photos here for Tony to look at.
I just replaced front idlers on my 943. I bought ITR idlers that were not built or assembled. I asked my aftermarket guy about getting the duo cones for it and he recommended going to CAT for those. He did not go into detail but his recommendation was good enough for me.
The smaller seals are not expensive from CAT, some of the larger final drive seals are mucho dinero and aftermarket seems to hold up fine.
I bought aftermarket for my final drive seals and I'm installing for the first time.I have them in evenly but I'm not sure if they are in deep enough.Will they pull on in when I tighten it all up?
There's a lip in there, if they're even and not trying to pop out they're probably fine. The rubber ring rolls on the inner and outer ramps compressing as it rolls to give the spring. I think there's a book height in the service manual though, anybody got that handy?
One thing is to use the right lube to install them, NOT OIL!!! Best thing is plain isopropyl alcohol good source of that is dry gas used to get water out of fuel use 100% isopropyl alcohol. I'm attaching a file that lists many different seals, should be able to find yours by part number or the dimensions. Most important info is in the last two columns under assembled height. That is measured from surface of the seal to the machined surface around the place the rubber ring goes in the housing, Tolerance is how much it can vary from one side to the other. I would not worry about the "tools" they list as I never in over 40 years even saw one and installed many of this type of seals with 99% success. The 1% failure was maybe the first one and that was from it getting bumped while installing a wheel hub. Might be able to add another file with some more info on these seals.
Took a little digging but this explains a lot of the points on these seals:
that was a nice read I'm glad you posted these files , if i dont try one myself soon on a d6n I will definatly be helping the cat guy to fully visulize the process
Glad I could be of help, or information.
Thanks for the help fellows.
The thing to do is to watch him install the seals using the proper Cat tool, and all the while be thinking to yourself "how can I do this without that tool". Willie59 posted a thread somewhere a while back regarding installing Duo-Cones using a zip tie round the outside of the rubber Toric Ring to compress it to aid the seal installation.
I have not personally tried it yet, but on the advice out of a CAT bulletin, it's supposedly very easy to install these after letting them cool in a freezer for a few hours. One gentleman I sold some floating seals (what the rest of the world calls Duo-Cone seals) to let me know it worked like a charm with a bit of isopropyl helping. YMMV
Well,I got it back together and worked it a while today,no leaks so I'm happy.
Always nice to check out a repair like that and see it nice and dry!