hello, I’m new, with I’m sure a newb question. Have ran tractors my whole life but this is my first tracked machine. Just bought a 955L S/N 85J11134. Got it home and went straight to cutting a pond damn, well 15 min into it smoke and vibration happened and it was the rubber coupling pucks blew up. Have new ones ordered and a decent idea on how the fix goes. Going to check motor mounts for breakage/misalignment, then install new pucks. Does anyone have any pointers for me or maybe a “how to” on the alignment? Google search got me no where. Thank you
Check out the thread “955K won’t move” just down the page. I think everything you’d need is there. If not post back here.
Thank you very much, I looked over that post I guess. Was exactly what I was needing.
So I got the belly off and pucks out. How much play on the input flange splines is acceptable? Input shaft is tight. Have a short video of it but says file is too large to upload
Are you talking about play between the transmission input flange and the shaft (circled in red) and are you referring to radial or axial play..? If yes, my response would be "no discernable radial play", although there is no official specification for it.
Yes that is the splins I’m referring to. I believe it would be axial play. Face of flange will go up approx. 1/4”-1/2”. There is minimal radial play.
So you have 1/4 - 1/2" of vertical movement on the flange..? Do you have a dial indicator to measure the movement of the shaft (if there is any) while you're moving the flange up & down. You would need one anyway to measure the runout of the flanges to set the drive coupling correctly. I don't like the sound of it TBH.
The slop in the torque convertor flange splines don't have a spec. To check motor drive flange alinement you use the torque converter input shaft so if that shaft doesn't have over .080" play its good to go .Check the front motor mount before you get too far along. Good luck Bob
Can anyone tell me the amount of shims that came out on this 955L from the factory? Which manual will tell me this info?, service or parts?
No, each machine is shimmed to meet specs . Good luck Bob
Got shim/washers ordered from cat... I have used the search option for about 2 hours now and can’t find a post I had seen about checking trans pressures. Can anyone point me to it or tell me how? Need to spend the money on a service manual I suppose....
I think this is what you're looking for.
Thank you, u guys are great
Before you start reshimming the motor mounts check the trunnion bushing on the front of your motor ,its behind the crank pully .This is the most common problem followed by someone losing shims when a motor is pulled. Good luck Bob
So I’ve got everything all lined up to within speck and motor mounts checked. I’m now checking pressures under the 3 bolt plate, speed clutch is good at right under 350 psi, the inlet to the torqconverter is 0 at idle and 100psi at wot. What are you’re thoughts in tc pressure? Manual says “bench test”.
I’d be more interested to know what was the converter outlet pressure with the transmission stalled in 3rd speed forward and all the systems at normal operating temperature. Converter inlet pressure is most often specified as “X psi max with cold oil”, because cold oil is when you get the highest pressure.
Well it is at 60 psi in 3rd gear and wot
You look OK ,if you are on the E port at 100 psi specs call out 135 max so you be good. There is no cold oil specs on your transmission or torque converter . The bench test is to shim control valve for torque converter. good luck Bob
Ok, all these readings were taken at “near” operating temperature. I will recheck input pressure tomorrow with cold oil. Everything seems to operate fine, and gets quicker once oil is up to temp. Even when digging hard, TC temp barely comes up on gauge.
All readings are taken with hot oil your in put pressure is fine like the specs say 135 psi max you're good at 100 psi. Bob
Thanks. Think I’m gunna put every thing back together and go