We recently learned that the 955L batteries are in series and that might explain why we were having issues with it staying charged as we were probably just charging one battery. Our trackloader is used on our weekend property so it sits all week and sometimes several weeks without being used. I am wondering if connecting a solar trickle charger to each battery would be helpful. But I also wonder if it would be harmful. Another issue that I also wonder about is that the manual says not to crank it until the battery is a certain percentage charged? I don't know how a trickle charger would effect that. Heck I am not ever sure why that is an issue, Another issue could have been that the water in the cells were low. We don't have electricity where we store the loader so we have to charge it with a generator. 1. How long should a charge last? 2. Can anyone recommend a way to keep it charged? 3. Does a 955L have glopugs? Thanks, Granny DP
1. Disconnected or with ZERO drain, the charge should last over the winter, or most of the summer, so a couple of months shouldn't be a problem. 2. Two solar trickle would work, might have to disconnect the batteries from each other. I'd recommend getting a real solar panel and charge controller for 24V but if you felt comfortable doing that you probably wouldn't be asking? Disconnecting the batteries and hooking them up parallel with smaller wires for charging isn't very hard, wouldn't hurt to use some fuses or breakers to keep from starting a fire if you touch something wrong. Could also use one solar trickle charger with the batteries hooked parallel, if one's not enough to keep them charged, the batteries are junk. You don't want to crank the batteries when they're discharged, it will hurt them somehow. You also don't want to discharge them too much, especially don't want to freeze them when they're dead.
Here's an option and a place to contact for more ideas: http://www.batterystuff.com/solar-chargers/BSP1024LSS.html
So long as the charging system of the tractor is functional it should keep the batteries charged from use. My old Allis is 24V on a generator not alternator and at 15 amps maximum it does fine after a days workout. As stated above, two solar unts should do well even at 2-6 amps max rating, just be careful not to cross wire the setup or you can burn up a lot of materials.
You've got problems.... ie.. bad batteries, bad disconnect switch, or bad cables.... find and fix the problem and you've got the solution.
Low water could have been your problem. If you go with the solar trickle charger, the $15 Harbor freight ones work good. With any brand of 12v unit you have to disconnect the cable between the batteries. There is a discussion of that somewhere on here, but I couldn't find it. It was me and Hatchequip and others a few weeks ago. We never could figure out why that was, but we all experienced it.
I would like to read that thread if I can find it. If the two 12v chargers were isolated from each other it seems like you wouldn't have to disconnect the batteries. I went to start my 955 two weekends ago and I let it sit too long this time without charging. I will have power in a few weeks but a solar charger still sounds like the best way to go.
Here you go, and I did a little more experimenting after this thread and I couldn't make two trickle chargers work with the batteries hooked in series, even though the main was off. :beatsme
Thanks for finding the thread Mitch. I'm at work right now and will read it when I get some time. Did you try solar chargers or plug-in the wall units? Powered chargers probably wouldn't be isolated from each other depending on how they are wired inside.
Both
It doesn't make any sense (solar) but OK.
We were thinking that was the problem. We had charging a few times before we added the water and now I am concernded that starting without a full charge has caused a starter problem. It sounds like it is running but it is not engaging the fly wheel.... the starter is just spinning.
We tried to start it using the starter switch on the dash, but the batteries were low and it wouldn't start. My husband let go of the starter switch on the dash and the soleniod disengaged the flywheel but the starter kept spinning....just the starter motor kept spinning. He had to use the safety key switch by the seat to turn it off. Then he turned the safety switch back to the ON position and the starter motor came back on again. My husband thinks it may be solenoid stuck, but does that it explain it spinning. (1) Could the switch on the dash also be stuck? (2) I keep wondering where the glopug is for the 955L Thanks Granny
Most likely the contacts in the solenoid are welded together due to the excessive amp draw caused by trying to start it with low voltage. This is fairly common.
My 955 does that too every so often. I believe the starter electrical contacts in the solenoid are temporarily welding together but mine have always returned to normal. The glow plugs (heat) are on the same switch as the starter, just turn it the other way.
These engines need a bit of heat to start fast even when it's warm out. If your ampmeter dips to -20 that means all 4 of your plugs are working.
Thanks to all! So ours might return to normal? If not, how do we get them apart i.e unwelded? I suppose we might have to remove the starter. Thanks, Granny DP
Try tapping on the solenoid if you can get to it. On most machines you can change the solenoid if necessary without removing the starter, if you are a good enough contortionist.
On mine the opposite position of the starter switch is marked "heat" which is the glow plugs. I've found that if I don't turn off the master switch even if the start/heat switch is completely in the middle, overnight (or until i use the machine again) there will be voltage drop, so I always make it a point to turn it off when I'm done for the day. I also had an experience where I used a non deep cycle battery in the 24v system and after a few days, the battery died; wouldn't hold a charge. I took it in to where I got it to swap it out on warranty and in the course of testing it the guy at the auto place said that the polarity had completely changed. I figured I hooked it up wrong, but my current set up is wired identically and I've never had the issue since.
I found that there is a whole group of chargers/maintainers out there made for multiple batteries. They are basically 2 or more isolated chargers in the same case so you don't have to disconnect any battery wires. Even Battery Tender makes one. Do a Google search for "2 bank charger" I think I'm going to go with this one and mount it permanently in the 955. http://www.geniuschargers.com/GENMini2 http://www.geniuschargers.com/GENMini2/accessories
It cranked after sitting a week. It is a little draggy though. . OldandWorn, that sound great!!! Please let us know how that works. My husband is going to keep the trickle charger attached in the off time. Granny DP
If you have good batteries in it and it's draggy after a week.... good lord you have issue's yet. My 955L can sit from Nov to April and start up just fine. The solenoid will not fix itself. If it did it once , it'll do it again. If your batteries test ok, and your main disconnect functions properly and your batteries are going dead,,, you have a draw on your electrical system from someplace.
It's a good possibility that you have some weak cells. Look at each cell with a battery hydrometer and that will tell you the health of the batteries. If all of the cells are reading the same, but low, then it probably just needs more charging. If some cells are fully charged and some are weak, that could indicate those cells have formed sulphates on the plates. The best way to prevent this from happening is to keep the batteries fully charged. If the machine is going to sit for long periods it's well worth the investment to get smart chargers and always keep them plugged in. Two Battery Tenders (or similar) with your interconnecting cables disconnected or a bank charger like I linked in my last post so you can keep your battery cables connected. I may have let my batteries sit too long with a low charge and I might have to spring for 2 new batteries. I will know for sure when I try to charge them as you are doing.
^^^ Check specific gravity. Spot on. Check voltage at batteries when running. Should be over 25 easily. Probably 26 or more. This shoud be tested with leads on the battery posts themselves. This checks connections, etc. Then test at alternator + output and a GOOD ground. Readings should be within .1 volt easily. THEN test voltage of both batteries individually. You do NOT need to disconnect the cable between them, just check at the + and - post of each battery. Readings should be very close also. This will tell you if one batteyr is weaker than the other... and how much. Wags