Here is a video I did when we pulled the drive sprocket off our 955L https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IN-r4aMMLcA I will do one of compressing the tensioner spring latter.
Interesting way of tackling a rim pull,you did manage to pop the rim but a bit of refinement might be handy next time, the direct pressure of the cylinder is going into the Dead Shaft also the outer case is getting the Bull gear stuffed up against it, so although you are removing your sprocket you are also damaging your tractor plus a bit of risk factor to your skin and bones, I look forward to the video of the re-build with some hope that things go well, if you had screwed in a spacer plate between the D/Shaft nut and the hub pushing the sprocket inwards towards the case, it would have been a good job with no damage possible, the 955 F/Drive is not like the standard CAT build up as the outer nut is the pre-load. hope I don't come over as my biggest Fan, you did manage to set the rim free, you method just needs a bit of study to perfect. well done though tctractors
Well to start with the tools I was using were all borrowed from a fellow that was all built by his dad way back in the 70s. He has been doing it this way for that long with no problems that I know of. As far as the case it was already trashed by the pinion bearing failure so that was not a worry lol. We did find a new case for $500 delivered and we thought that to be quite reasonable. Ok all that being said in my honest opinion I think your right on the money. If I were to build my own tool now that I have seen this work and I now know how to do this I would make a tool a bit different. Instead of pressing on the dead shaft I would find one of the BAS (big ass nuts) that hold the sprocket on and machine it down in a lathe and weld it to a segment of tube. Probably old cylinder tube I could salvage from my buddies machine shop. This way I could push on the hub that holds the bull gear while pulling on the sprocket. I think this is more closer to what the cat factory tools work. I could use the same piece and a section of tube over this new fabrication to use as a puller to install the sprocket. Like you say just a little more refinement.
The old cat tools work like that but there is a new thick ring to go between the adapter on the dead shaft and the sprocket hub. This will deliver the force in the right spot. Later Bob
workshoprat, I don't think I commented in any way about the tooling that you had hooked up to the tractor, I only commented on the tooling (spacer plate) that you sort of missed putting in behind the nut so the hub took the loading not the thin outer F/D cover, now that you have it in bits it might be an idea to study how things need to be refined, its your tractor and you do what you want how you want, 1 time I never had the correct tooling for rim pulling/pushing so I was doing all the study the task stuff, now that I have all the CAT and Komatsu rim kit I know better than CAT of what bits I need to tackle the job, often loads of stuff that CAT has in the tool listing to do a job is OTT, please don't think I am full of crap as I do this F/Drive work as my regular earner, I stripped a F/Drive out this morning on a Farm Chariot I will post pictures in the shop talk slot asap, as a matter of interest how do you press the sprocket back onto the hub? tctractors
tctractor I have not taken issue with what you have said at all. In fact after doing this I completely agree with you. It could be better. However I am not following you on the spacer behind the nut. Is there any way you could post a picture of that? The fellow I borrowed the tooling from didn't have anything like that. I would very much like to see it so I can incorporate it into a future design of my tooling. Would love to have the cat service set but are harder than hens teeth to find. even harder to find at a price I like.
You need to make sure the force is applied to the sprocket hub not the dead shaft. If you have an adapter on the shaft there is a fat washer that goes between it and the hub. Then when you press on the adapter and pull on the sprocket the force on the adapter is transferred to the hub. Hope this explains things. Later Bob
are we calling the sprocket hub the tapered and splined shaft that the sprocket presses on to? It also has the bull gear bolted to it? Yes I agree it would be much better to apply force between these two points rather than the sprocket and dead shaft. Thats pretty much what I was describing by taking one of the nuts and making a tool out of it. could also be used to pull Sprocket back onto shaft.
Yes some old adapters were made that way for pressing sprockets on. Later Bob
workshoprat, have you looked at some of my junk in the Shop Talk section about rim pulling, there has to be a few snaps showing the area in doubt. tctractors
I will take a look at that. would be cool to see.