Hey There I have a couple questions. Thanks for any info 1;Is there anything in this trany that will biuld pressure and load down engine? 2;Will this govanor not give full throttle with out good oil pressure? The following is me trying to give Info. I am working on a 955l for a ranch, It is sitting about 1/2 mile from the road with some real nasty washes in between so no way to get a trailer in there to get it out. When I first saw it the starter had been removed 6 or 8 years ago when the previus owner had abandund it, I bared it over at flywheel so new it was not froze. I ordered a new starter for it, and picked up 2 new 4-D batterys for it, when I put the new starter and batteries in I had it running in no time, the hardest part was getting the rust and the dirt out of the bolt holes(It is 16 miles from my shop and I didnt have a 5/8" tap with me). Any way little starting fluid and away it went surprize, surprize, I ran it forward and back and turned it both ways and all was good,the rear motor mounts were realy loose and it was low on water so shut it down and came back next day changed out the antifreeze and changed fuel filter as it had low fuel pressure at high engine RPM. As it was sitting there idling worming up before I ran it to the road it began to slow down and stop,It is a D-330 I believe, serial 71J3570. It sounded like a fuel problem so I was looking at the injection pump and saw that there was another filter on the pump I pulled it off and it was plump full of anything and everything I cleaned it and put it back on,It is a brass screen, there was fuel running from the tank the hole time I had filter off so I know the tank is not pluged. I started it back up and sounded good for a while but then sounded like it was lugging down I checked the hydraulic valves to made shur something was not stuck on everything was fine. It would stall again I would leave it set for 2,3 minutes and it would start up and run then stall again, at this point I realized that I couldnt get full throtle and noticed that the oil pressure was low, when it stalls it still has good fuel pressure. I Changed the oil and when it was cold I started it up and got full throtle out of it and ran it about a half foot ball field and then it seemed to not have enough power to pull the machine with lots of black smoke like it was working realy hard then it stalled again,after about 10 minutes started it up again and moved it a little ways but kept powering down. PLEASE ANY IDEAS Thanks Ray
I believe that the fuel injection pump has a low oil pressure sensor that will not allow RPM above idle when the engine oil pressure is low. Someone will chime in who knows more details and solutions.
Thanks I was thinking that, because the next day when cold it went right up. The other problem is loosing power as it does that with oil pressure I believe I will head over there tommorow and dig in to it was hopping to get it to shop instead of lying in the dirt. could be bearing or pump or both. No rattles so hope crank is good.
There is a piston in the back side of the governer with a pin that limits the throttle travel untill oil pressure forces it back. Think you will find the crank bearings are worn. Later Bob
Thanks I will dig in to it tomorow, it took 5 gallons of water to fill it and the fan belts were so loose the fan would almost spin, whats surprizing is it still runs.
Thanks for your help Bob One more thing how does a guy align the engine to the torque converter, the back mount bolts were backed off about 1/2 inch , I just tightened them and I'm shur that is not right.
That is a very important job Rainbird, if not done right the drive biscuits will be ripped out very soon. First you need to weld up and grind flat the mating surfaces of the rear engine mounts. Then you need to clean up the outer circumference and rear face of the drive disc on the flywheel. Then you need a "tough dial indicator" and a piece of rod bent 90 deg to mount it on. The rod could be ground a bit to better grip the splines of the converter when it's fastened to it with a hose clamp. This is to measure the alignment of the engine and the torque. Make sure the bearings in the torque converter are not loose before you start. Leave all 4 mounting bolts loose, set up dial indicator on rod clamped to the converter input shaft so it will run around the outer diameter of the disc on the engine. Spin the indicator around the disc, lifting the point over any notches maintaining the reading close from one side to the other. The indicator may be out of range so make it touch at the bottom and have space at the top. Add shims equal to half the difference in measurement to each rear mount and check again. Once you get the top and bottom readings equal, pry the rear of the engine side to side untill the readings are equal on the right and left. Once you get all of the readings, top, bottom, right and left close, snug down the rear mounting bolts and spin the indicator again. If the readings change try to reshim to get them closer and retighten. The spec for this reading is 0.080" runout but the closer to zero the better. Now you reposition the dial indicator to run around the rear face of the disc. Check the readings at 12:00 3:00 6:00 and 9:00 O'clock. Shim the front of the engine to get the readings at 12:00 to equal 6:00. Use shims equal to 3 times the difference in readings to get close, once they are equal pry the front of the engine side to side to make the readings at 3:00 and 9:00 equal. Snug down front bolts and recheck. If the readings are good, 0.026" runout or less, shoot for as close to zero as you can, torque down all 4 mounting bolts. Then recheck both readings. Now aren't you sorry you asked???? Later Bob
Well it was all for not. I pulled the pan off today and the loss of oil pressure was because the bushing on the front end of the oil pump drive shaft on left side of engine came out of the housing and was lying in the bottom of the pan,also the bushing in the idler gear for the oil pump was so bad that it chiped a tooth on the shaft on right side. I started the engine this morning to raise the bucket and the engine sqealed to a stop,probably scrap.
Thanks for that Bob If they end up fixing this and not scraping it I will do that when I put the new motor back in. Thanks again for all your help.
Rainbird, I think that engine has been put together without timing the ballancers, That would pound out some bushings and other parts too. Later Bob
not seeing the machine, It steared went forward and back has rippers on back and a 4 point bucket on the front, the bottom end appers to be good, Do you have an apinion on the scrape value of this machine, If I can get it cheep enough I would fix it for my self. It would fit in with my 1972 H-50 payloader and my 1948 allis chalmers road grader.
A fellow contractor picked up an engine for 2G and it cost 1500 to open it , inspect , replace some gaskets and install it. Just a thought.
thanks for that I was told by local guy the 3304 are hard to comeby I havent looked around yet.
They aren't that uncommon but they aren't cheap either. You need to be aware when swaping engines, you need to have the same power setting or the new engine will either have low power or rip your machine apart. Now for starters if you haven't dropped the oil pump the gears will still be in mesh. Turn the engine over untill any piston is at TDC and then try to run one 3/8"NC bolt up into each ballancer. Come on back with what you find. Later Bob
No I pulled the pump at the same time i pulled pan yesterday.there was also a peice of brass broke in pieces probably thrust washer. It's 32 miles round trip to the machine. I havent heard back from owner what there planing to do with it.