Been a while since I screwed up, but here I'm back! I finally got the right combination of warm sunny days, on Saturday, to get my pond pumped down and started to do some digging. 2.5 hours in, I lost a track, worse, I did it below the water line and a thunderstorm is predicted for Monday. doh! So 3 hours, two guys, never having done it before, we got the track back on. Learned some interesting things, including that it's MUCH easier to do it on an excavator, where you can lift the entire side off the ground. During that procedure, as we tried to back off the idler wheel, we found out why the track adjuster wasn't "working". I had tried to pump more grease in it recently as the track seemed a bit slack, but it didn't budge. Well, that's because the track chain is so stretched that the piston had actually come out of the cylinder, therefore, couldn't extend any further. We managed to line it up and slide it back in, which allowed us to get the track back on. So, the question is, can I remove a link from the track chain. I have a repair manual for an earlier version, mine is 53A4721 and I can only find manuals for 53A1 through 53A1906 (which is the book I have) or 53A4797 through 53A8886. (anyone got one to sell?) In that repair manual, it mentions the master link pin, which I have identified on the machine. It tells how to remove and reinstall the track by removing that master pin, but doesn't say what's different about the master pin, vs the other pins, and whether a link can be removed. Obviously, back in the day, the 'correct' fix would have been to replace the chain, but that's not viable anymore. Heh, at least I didn't get it stuck this time. Thanks for your thoughts. Brett
You can search around here for threads detailing the procedure, but here's the Cliff's notes version from my experience: First, make sure you don't have SALT tracks, in those one end of each track pin will have about a half inch hole with a rubber stopper pressed into it, and the track chain will also have a bolt type spilt master link. But then if you had SALT tracks they probably wouldn't be all stretched out yet. The master pin, usually marked with a dimple on each end in the center, is exactly the same as every other pin except it's turned down in the center section between where it presses into the outer links so it's few thousandth's smaller. When installing or removing, once you get one end past the tight spot, that whole center section will slide easily until you get the other end to the next tight spot. If you can go buy a master pin kit, it's all much easier because you can torch away blowing the center out of the ends of the old pins and just put the new master pin in after removing the link. The following assumes you can't get one in a timely fashion and need to save and reuse the old master pin: Assuming you have no pin press or other hydraulic assistance, what I usually do is get the master pin just aft of the top of the sprocket, or just forward of center on top of the idler depending on access and something to push against on the inside of the track chain. Pull two track shoes on either side of the master. Find a piece of heavy wall pipe or square tube that can go over the pin end of the inside master link, big enough ID so the pin can slide into it, and hopefully get it up against something so you can wedge it tight or get a screw jack, hydraulic jack, or porta power behind it to hold the master link from bouncing while you try to drive the pin out. Get it all figured out but don't put it in place yet. Use a rosebud or big welding tip on a torch, or in a pinch a cutting tip, heat both side links around the master pin, try to avoid heating the pin as much as possible. When you get to a dull red on both sides, try it, get your backing in place, use a drift that's smaller in diameter than the master pin, hopefully with a "T" handle welded to it so if you miss with the BFH nobody loses any fingers, address it smartly with a sixteen or twenty pound BFH and hope it moves. This is an excellent place for one of those slide hammer sledges by the way.... More heat if necessary, but no more than dull red on the links hopefully to save them. At this point, assuming you have been able to drive the pin completely out, the drift pin should be holding the track together. Use a cable comealong or such like to pull a bit of slack, remove the drift pin and let the track come apart slowly. There will be some steel spring washers on each side of the master bushing and a thick spacer ring, if they're intact save them. Now, to remove a link, I usally take off the link with the master bushing, leaving in place the open end of the one link with the two ends you just pressed the pin out of. The link with the short master bushing has a standard pin in the other end, I just cut both side links in the middle so the bushing end falls away, then wash metal from the end of the link holding the pin with the torch until you can drive the pin out, once it's loose just push it on out the other end of the bushing. The standard bushing is longer than the master, you will need to cut it down with a cutoff wheel and a grinder until it's flush with the links on both sides. Now all you have to do is place the spacer rings in the outer links, thick grease helps here, I wouldn't bother with the spring washers if they're even still in there, up to you, slip the open end of the master link over the bushing, pull together with your comealong, line up the holes with a round drift, if you have something that's close to tight in the hole it helps line up the pin as it presses in. Good idea to grind a nice chamfer on each end of the master pin at this point. Heat the links up again, probably not as much as before, and reinstall the master pin. If it seems loose a couple fat tack welds on each end probably won't hurt. Might take a bit of fiddling to get the shoes back on this one link as the bolt holes may drift. Pump it up and go. It never goes easy. Others may weigh in with different techniques and advice, and they may have better ideas than me, pick what works for you. Good luck!
I have a similar issue on a old Allis where the left rail is so snakey it will roll off. It is not just that the rails are worn pin and bushing too far for length, the bushings and pins wear at the line of the link segments and actually allow the rail to snake which is why they will walk off the idler. You most likely do not have SALT rail maybe sealed but not Sealed and Lubricated. It is time for rails not shortening a issue that won't help much.
Thanks for the (more than) cliff notes mate. Seems like I have my work cut out for me in the near future.