Hi Guy's haven't posted anything for quite sometime. I have my 977K 11K 1345 with a 3306 engine. I recently had to change the Pre Cup Seals because of water leakage from the radiator. That worked out fine, and needed to be done. Machine has bee sitting in the Barn for a year or so. When it's moved now I have oil leaking out of the rear of the Torque Converter, where that little Drive shaft goes into it and it's milky like there's water mixed in with the Tranny oil. I pulled the dip stick on the transmission, and it has milky fluid on the stick. Is there a cooler for the system,that could have gotten water in from the Engine radiator, to the transmission, and flooded the Torque Converter. Maybe when the Pre Cup seals went bad ??? I'm prepping my pit to do any repairs so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks catman977
Does that thing have a transmission Oil cooler that is cooled by antifreeze from the engine. I am guessing it does. Check into it. Simon C
Thanks Simon for replying to my post. Yes it has a section of the radiator that is a cooler for the Torque converter. I had to pull all of the Pre Cups in the Diesel Head and reinstall new 0 Rings, and seals to stop the Antifreeze getting in to the Engine. That worked good, no leaks now. I then discovered the torque converter was running transmission oil out of the seal where the small drive line goes in. That means either the Scavage pump isn't working to keep the case from being flooded, or there's a problem somewhere else. I just got the 977 on a pit but haven't had the time to pull the bottom off the Converter housing. Hoping I don't have to swap the Torque Converter. Do you have any Ideas what may have happened?
What's your serial number?
It's Cat 977K 11K1345
Trans Oil cooler Coming up with original 5S6807, change 5S6439, S/N 11K0001 thru 3219 Part 6N9215 shows up in the comments but unsure if its exact fit. Maybe another can clarify Don't know if its a bad leak or the scavage pump or screen
Yes if it's a leak with something other than the Torque Converter Failure, I would be happy with that. Going to pull the sump off the TC, and check out the Scavage Pump Gear, and screen. There's not susposed to be much fluid in the TC sump, maybe a gallon or so, but when it's running out of the Drive line seal it's flooding. Just wondering if anyone else have experience this problem. It's probably the similar setup on a 955 cat also. Thanks for all your Prompt Post's. Looks like doing a TC Stall, with the Brakes, would cause troubles too. I haven't done one for about a year when, I was checking I/O Valve Pressures.
Echoing AllDodge's comment above. Have you looked at the suction screen in the converter housing.?
Thanks Nige. Tomorrow I plan to take the sump apart, and clean the screen and inspect the drive gear for the Pump. I hope that's the Problem. I can pull the Torque Converter but it's a lot of work for one old guy. I have the 977 over a Pit, I built a couple of years ago, which makes it easier for me to work on it. Can't lay under anything anymore. Thanks to all of you again. I will Post my findings to help others.
Hi All hope every one is well.. I replaced the TC and Engine's cooler's, to eliminate any leak's from the radiator to the TC and Transmission oil. I purposely left the TC Hyd filter, the Magnetic screen, and the TC Sump screen off the system for mixing with the new 20W thinner, 30 gallons of oil, I put in the transmission. The Sump screen was pretty thick with that white sticky stuff, that must have came from the Blue Devil, I poured into the radiator. So I left the screen off, to give the Scavenger Pump, free clearance to the TC sump oil. I replaced the oil and filter, in the Engine, and started it up, to circulate the fluids. The oil still ran out of the seal, where the small drive line goes into the TC, from the transmission. I'm puling the Scavenger Pump today, hoping I find sheered Keys or something wrong with it. If it checks out ok, I guess pulling the TC is the next step. Has anyone removed the TC on a 977? Can I drop it out the bottom, or does it have to come out the top? Oh by the way, I have a new seal for the TC where the drive line goes, I haven't changed it thinking the TC shouldn't have that much fluid in it anyway. Can I be wrong?
Haven't pulled one but looking at the drawings I would say the motor or the trans has to come out to get to it. There is a member if I remember correctly, he pulled everything out the rear, but that was to replace trans to differential
Sounds like you just need to change the output shaft seal just pull drive shaft and yoke off and change the lip seal. pretty sure you can pull convertor and drop it out the bottom i think I have done it before
According to the Service Manual it comes out of the top (which of course requires the cab, steering/brake controls, dash panels, etc, to be removed first) although I'm sure that likely isn't the only possible way to do it. Depends on what resources you have available I guess.
The bearing behind that yoke seal is pressure lubed so the seal can leak without the converter being flooded . Pull the plug after running it and see how much oil is in there. The seal can be changed after pulling yoke although you may have to pull seal carrier. Bob
Thanks everyone for the great info. I rebuilt that little drive line, a couple of years ago, with new U Joints, and replace the bearing and race, in the yoke, as well as the seal. I do have another seal to swap it out again. I remember that on the TC shaft, there is a reverse Spiral Knurling, on the shaft to keep the oil from the seal. I'll check that also, when I pull the yoke off, to replace the seal. I have a new gasket ordered for the scavenger pump, so I'll wait on it, before I tear into things again. That Spiral could have the sticky crap, plugged in it, like everything else. A man with a 440 chrysler had a rear main seal leak problem, and found out his crankshaft was Knurled in reverse, pushing the oil flow toward the seal. Chrysler Made Marine engines, with reverse rotation for Torque canceling, when two engines were used. Thanks again. I will Post what I fine. Anyone else Please use caution, and don't let anyone else talk you into pouring stuff into your radiator, Better to pull the head and do it right.!!!
Hi Everyone Hope you all are having wonderful Holiday's I finally got my 977K 100% Leak free and the Torque Converter is happy. I replaced the Engine oil Cooler, and the TC Cooler as well. I purposely left the Screen out of the sump of the TC, and the screen out of the Magnetic strainer, and the Filter for the TC. I replaced the Seal in the Yoke of the TC and new gasket. I ran the Engine for about an hour, for the TC to mix what was left in it, with the Bulk of the transmission fluid. The new Fluid looked good and no milky water, or sticky substance from the engine Blue Devil. I noticed a leak in front of the Engine Manifold, Found it was a Diesel leak from number 4 injector. I pulled the injector and could not take it apart to inspect it. Ordered a new injector Body and Spray Nozzel, and Seals. I could not buy it in a one piece unit. ??? I checked the Torque on the Pre Cup which was 150 LBS. and the Injector Nut is 105 LBS. The new seal was a different type with metal embedded with the 0 Ring. I installed the fuel line, and started the engine for a test. All leak free.!! I installed new filters in everything and retested all oil levels. Found I have maybe a gallon, to much in the Transmission, and I will extract that tomorrow. I will now pressure wash all the old Grease from the underside, and the catch plates under the TC and engine. Come Spring it will get a new coat of paint. I will use a sand blaster attachment for my Pressure washer sold by Northern Tool. New Decals seem to be hard to find. I would like to install a Rear Winch. Is there a model of Winch that will work with my 977K?