Hello I am posting this with hope for any discussion and advice on how to disassemble this 980H wheel / planetary , please .
Do you need to go into the brakes at the same time as the planetary, or are you just planning on going into the reduction gears.?
Hello Nige thank you . The reduction gears are what im thinking is the problem. the cover plate that i did not post a photo of has burn marks on it from 2 of the 3 gears and i will also post a picture of that soon . The reduction gear case got really hot and 2 gears started grinding/ stalling and making lots of fine shavings. i have only removed the front plate so far . I am going to wash it clean soon and i will post a picture of plate and a close up of the gears .
Here are more photos
My suggestion would be to pull off the complete assembly and go into the brakes as well. The reason being that a problem in the inboard design of brakes used on the 980H can translate into loads of heat in the planetary. Not saying that the problem started in the brakes but IMHO you are missing a trick if you don’t at least pull them apart and check. To simply disassemble the planetary you need a 1/2” UNC eyebolt screwed in the end of the shaft than rotate the hub a hair either way to get the weight off. The axle shaft should then slide straight out. To remove the planetary there are (I think) two 1/2” threaded extraction holes in between the wheel bolt holes. A bolt in each of those and the planetary assembly should slide straight out. If you want to go into the brakes as well pull the axle shaft as above then support the final drive assembly and remove the ring of bolts on the RH side of your original photos almost directly under the outside of the machine chassis. The assembly can then be removed and stood up vertically for disassembly. Personally I find it easier than turning the loader on its side……. If you want the full details for disassembly I can post them up.
thank you so much . i am going to put my coveralls on and get it washed . if you do not mind the full details i would like that then i can print them off instead of running to my device all the time . Many thanks - its been breakdown after breakdown lately and cannot afford to keep sending my iron to cat . I pretty confident i can repair this in house or At least i think i can .
Here are the full instructions including the D&A for the brakes. BTW the Duo-Cone seal is leaking and needs to be replaced while you are in there. If you find that a planetary pin has spun (likely from the photos) and you need a replacement carrier ask if there is Reman available. It appears as though there was an upgrade regarding planetary pin retention for the original 123-9046 Planetary Carrier. There is a new Part Number 463-9184 but it also requires three new planetary shafts and dowels paired with it.
Hey Nige I have the reduction case removed . Both axle and case came out like it was just put together from new . Thank you for your document you attached I have not downloaded yet but will tonight and print . This is really good information. Thanks again
Oh dear. That’s not looking good. Parts so far appear to be - Carrier, ring gear, axle sun gear, three new planetary pins along with bearings, planetary gears & thrust washers, & a Duo-Cone seal assembly. And that’s before you get into the brakes……. How many hours on the loader and what oil are you using in the axles.?
Agree that's not good! I'm wondering the reason for this failure. I worked on Cat front end loaders for around 40 years and don't recall one failing like that. Just out of an abundance of caution at the least I would be pulling the cover off the opposite end of that axle! Just a quick look at the instruction posted that looks very close if not the exact same brake and finals as the 980G. Recall one of those that had major failure of brake disks but planetary was still good! Good luck!
Here's the SMag anmouncing the reason for the change and the parts required to replace the former 129-3046 Part Number of carrier. Reading the article it would appear as though the original P/N of dowel was a bit on the flimsy side.
Yes this looks expensive ! I’m going to try CAT used for starters or try find a dismantled machine for parts . The whole assembly not just individual parts . The loader itself has close to 30K hours . It did have lots of oil
Thanks Ken I’ve never seen one pile up like that as well
Finals never overhauled before.? They are well overdue if that’s the case. Regarding oil I was asking more about type and viscosity. The oil from that final is shared between the diff and the other final.
Just got off the phone with Cat they want 12,500 for a reman with 6 month warranty
Nige I’m thinking it was a 15/40 or 10/30 not sure but I think they recommend that unless it has changed . It did weep a bit from the cone seal you mentioned but then it also stopped . If I remember right the operator noticed it and checked it out . The day was cold -40 he was walking it from pit to pit
You already disassembled the component. Won’t that mean you get hit for the Core Charge on top of the quoted Reman price making the Reman component the same price as a new one.?
Hello Nige or any member that may want to chime in here . we have the installed complete final drive that we found from a dissmantled machine and we really lucked out because it was complete and the wrecker even tore it down to replace / check everything including putting in a new duo cone seal . quick question - can i flush the system ( diff) with deisel or varsol . ..run around the yard for a small bit then drain ? Also i seen in a post from prior and a 50 weight engine oil was recommended .
note; Machine did not come with a service or repair manual
phoned cat tech they said 30 weight good for -20 to + 43 . We are picking up torc 30 from oil company here in our town
TBH for something like a wheel loader that moves quite quickly I would put the recommended oil in it, run it for a couple of days, then drain the oil and refill the axle.
Thanks Nige will do
TBH based on your location and the difference in ambient temperature between summer and winter I would think that you really need a multigrade TO-4 oil in those axles unless you change oil grades between summer and winter. What were you using before the final drive failure.?
TBH i dont know what oil they had in there . i know it was a motor oil of some sort and i do agree a multigrade like a 10/30 or 15/40 may be the best . Also i will change the oil out in a week or so however i though that pulling the magnetic plug( keep it at 12 oclock to pull) a few times after the initial run in may be a good idea too.
It certainly would. It should have been a specialized power transmission oil meeting Cat TO-4 specification, certainly not a motor oil if by that description you mean engine oil. Do you use Petro-Canada as a lube supplier.? They offer a couple of multigrade TO-4 specification oils. If not, whose oil do you use.?
Nige this will be the oil we use for now
I understand that, and for summer time in Canada it will be fine My question was what brand of lubricants do you generally use.?
Nige we use Coop lubricants and I’ve had very good luck with them . I even use an all season gear oil from COOP in a Cone crusher with brass bushings . Never had any problems and very little wear on the bushings . Also small town and we buy all of our diesel for the trucks and equipment from coop and as well they supply us with lots of work ….snow removal grading gravel etc . As a bulk customer we also receive a rebate and a coop points rebate
I also use Shell oils as well 15/40 and some Omala 150- 480 gear oils and Gadus 0 to 00 grease mainly for the old cedarapids 443 commander crushing plant
In that case you could ask your supplier if they have a multigrade TO-4 oil available. AFAIK there are a few types of this oil out there, but not every oil company will produce them. In Cat terminology there is TDTO TMS and TDTO Cold Weather. Both meet the TO-4 specification and IIRC the first is a 10W/40 viscosity, the second is a 5W/20. If your regular supplier can't help you with a multigrade TO-4, then Petro-Canada supply various ones, including an 0W/20 and a 5W/30.
Thanks Nige I will definitely check that out
Well it's either find a multigrade TO-4 or use a mongrade oil and change viscosities in automn and spring.