It looks like a 1 3/8 OD black plastic poly or what ever the material is feeding a shop. I know could be thick or thin. Does anyone know what ID's this could be, I would hate to cut it and not have a proper barb fitting to go in it. The whole main would have to be off until its plugged. And what are the best fittings to use, I'm thinking a stainless steel. I will likely want the fitting to have male threads to screw a valve on, I plan to add more fittings and valves so I do not want a double barbed valve, and threaded just makes replacing a valve easier if that ever needs to be done.
If is rural water such as from a well or some municipal water systems it sounds like either 75 or 100 lb low density poly pipe. That requires a 1 inch brass barbed insert fitting with doubled all stainless hose clamps.
I cannot help with the id of your pipe. But it is quiet easy to insert barbed fittings into it if you very carefully heat it with a small propane torch. It does not need to be very warm. It expands rapidly. Let it cool to air temperature after inserting the fitting and before putting two ss clamps on it. The same goes if you want to remove a fitting.
The pipe size should be written on the pipe every 2 to 4 feet. If it happens to be SDR pipe, you can’t use barbed insert fittings.
I e been using tap hot water to heat up pipes for stabbing barbs, works very well and safe
Only about 3 feet of it is exposed, so far no writing. Not from a well that I know of, off a water meter. What is SDR pipe? I'm sure its the normal stuff you get in big 100 or so foot rolls. Its been buried for many years, don't know how old it is. How to identify SCR ? And what fitting for that stuff? Wouldn't stainless be better than brass for a barb fitting? I don't really want to get stuck with plastic ones. I will likely use a heat gun, and all the video's I watch says clamp it while hot to help the barbs dig in better. Why cold Tinkerer?
Poly pipe can be SDR or SIDR. SDR pipe, the outside diameter stays the same. As pressure rating increases and pipe gets thicker, the inside gets smaller. Fittings go on the outside of the pipe, like a compression coupling, or it is fused. You probably have SIDR pipe, which accepts an insert fitting, and the inside diameter stays the same through different pressure ratings. Sounds like it‘s 1”. You probably need one of these. It’s a pretty common fitting. I prefer stainless. If your threaded fittings are both stainless, use tape and don’t over tighten. Otherwise the threads will gall and never come apart. And wrap your hose clamps with pipe wrap or electrical tape.
1.375" OD means its probably 1 1/4" copper tube size (CTS) poly, I think 0.151" wall. We use Pack-Joints or Ranger brass on poly tube.
It allows it to shrink back to it's original diameter. I wouldn't want to clamp it while it is expanded because the clamps may not be as tight after the hose cools. I also like tee bolt hose clamps because the are wider than worm gear ones.
Could be. The OD on 1” SIDR 200 psi poly is also about the same. If you’re worried about the water being shut off, it wouldn’t hurt to buy a Pack Joint fitting and return it if you don’t need it. Just make sure the compression side of the fitting is CTS, not IPS.
Tinkerer, then just tighten more when cold? At least when warm the barbs get more dig. JLarson, any pics of what your talking about? LN Pipeline, Thanks for the stainless pic, and what does all the last post mean, this is not a specialty of mine, define or good pics of CTS and IPS? That is like me saying use G91 for that machine movement.
T-bolt clamps will tighten quite a bit more too. It sucks when you try to tighten gear clamps and they strip or twist making them useless. I've used boiling water to install barb fittings. It contracts on cooling and the clamps hold it there. If you ever had to remove a fitting, I don't think you could if you clamped the hose when hot.
This is a 1-1/4” CTS by 1” MNPT One side of the fitting slides over the CTS pipe and you clamp it down. CTS is Copper Tubing Size. IPS is Iron Pipe Size. They are two different pipe sizes. 1” CTS has different dimensions than 1” IPS.
I attached the MNPT adapter pages of the AY Mcdonald catalog, the -22 connectors are pack-joints for copper tube size. Only thing with pack-joints is you need to know what type of pipe you're dealing with or the gland and restraint clamp won't fit. The -11 are their range taking connectors, like 1 1/4" -11 will fit on pretty much anything that falls between 1.370" and 1.804" OD. That's what we've been using lately because they work on poly, PVC, copper and iron, I think they are rated for pex and polybutylene too. They're handy for those oh no what did we just dig up moments. I always take a caliper to poly pipe and get the best OD mesurment I can, that really helps.
The pdf, some of those look like the ferrule compression type fittings for copper tubing for say an old oil pressure line etc. is that what they are? Is that how that one in the big photo above works, but then has the clamp as a safety so the line won't slip out? This line checks very close to 1.380 to 1.385, and does have pressure in it. It looks like the line goes in then you tighten the big hex then, the clamp? Is that a better way to go rather than a barb? What is HDPE ? Is it similar to poly? I may just have a plumber install one valve, I bet thats an expensive deal.
HDPE is an abbreviation high density polyethylene pipe. I became aware of what is when I needed to run a natural gas line 600 feet to my shop.
Ok so the stupid price quoted from a plumbing outfit, may have me trying it. So what is the best way to cut it? A fine tooth sawsall? So if it is a fairly thick wall the compression fitting would be best to try first? I just don't want to have it leak. If using a barbed fitting would using a sealer at the very end 1/2 inch or so after the fitting is inserted be a good idea? I really appreciate all the good info I got from you all.
https://www.amazon.com/NOEAIKE-1-5-...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 Any large mouth pvc cutter will work unless it's PE. I'd use a traditional cutter with a wheel on PE. Not sure why you don't follow the line to termination to figure out what kind of fitting you need. Sometimes it makes sense to open the wall up.
What did the plumber quote you? Are you putting in a curb stop valve?
Yeah some utilities still use roll copper with either compression fittings or some still use flares for their service lines. The compression fittings for poly have a insert sleeve and stainless steel restraint rings kinda like a shark bite. The Pack-Joints have a rubber seal and a Teflon backup ring then you tighten that restraining bolt after you tighten the nut.
This was installed by previous owner all I wanted plumber to do is cut a section from line and install 1 valve on pressure side, so h2o could be turned back on, $500.00.
Because it is 3 feet deep and would be a huge time consuming mess and may create a mess as well. I guess your not in your 70's?
Getting closer every day but still too doing stupid $*it like this.
As long as you have a main and can shut her down. A union on either side of the cut, two nipples and a valve in the middle and you're good to go. One of those oscillating tools will do the job also if your hands are like mine and will hurt after playing with a large pvc cutter.
When done other than the initial one all important feed valve, there will be a total of 5 valves.
Wouldn't those dimensions make the wall .0625 ?
What outfit has these fittings. I got one that looks like a pipe that was swagged down in the barb area and reduces the size as compared to a bronze fitting. I'm planning on the first main valve to be stainless.
Any place that has the words “Pipe and Fitting” should have it. I googled Pipe and Fitting in Kent, WA and came up with Puget Sound Pipe and Supply, 27402 72nd Ave S, Kent, WA 98032. How long can the water be off, and how far are you from this store? If the barbed insert fitting doesn’t work, can you cut a short piece of pipe off and take it there and have them get you the proper fitting?
For thread type, you can choose between NPT, BSP, or Metric Thread. These types are available in both straight and tapered thread designs. Straight threads maintain the same diameter throughout their length, while tapered threads taper at the end of the connection. Straight threads require a gasket or O-ring to maintain a seal, while tapered threads do not require an O-ring, but still require the use of duct tape or sealant to achieve a seal.
Duct tape is not a thread sealant. It fixes anything that's broke but doesn't seal threads. LoL
No one has a pak or compression fitting with a male 1" to fit a 1.375 OD pipe. I did find (must be old stock) a bronze compression type splice that fits said pipe though. So at some point in time they existed.