Hello guys I am working on my 1956 ac dozer, I bought it with steering clutches haywire one driving & one badly slipping( so I thought ) I removed the clutches only to discover the main shaft was sheared off on the drivers side. I have a 1955 hd9 it looks like parts will interchange that I need & can I change the clutch shaft without pulling the transmission. any advice will be helpfull thanks shane
Is that the shaft going to the outboard side final drives" or the shaft toward the inside or ring gear? If it is outward shaft not much problem, just take bearing loose and I think there is a cap outside final and remove. If inboard a little more complicated. Have to remove other steering clutch and unbolt ringear and if I remember right it comes out left side. Need to measure new shaft to see if it is same distance between bearing shoulder and ring gear surface. If not may need to move bearings left or right to get correct backlash on ring and pinion. Be sure to keep shims together for each side and together. A service manual would be nice as they have good instructions and pictures. Can probably use the old grocery sack trick. Tear a strip and feed it through the ring and pinion when assembled and if it dons't tear the paper but presses on both sides you are probably good to go. Should be no need to remove trans. Norcan parts, Spokane Wa. probably has good used parts. 509-466-3566 Moving a shim from one side to the other will move ring gear closer of further away. Lots of bolts to turn, good luck. Have a service manual and can scan pages if need be.
Good advice Crayton. Yes it is the clutch shaft on the inboard side & have removed both clutch packs ( yeah lot's of bolts ) I have 2 original AC manuals great picture's, they both tell me how to remove the ring gear & clutch shaft. The one thing I am trying to avoid is pulling transmission but see no other option as aux. driveshaft off trans. to winch is in my way. Is there another way to remove the splined driveshaft ? Do I have to make a special puller using a portapower to take hubs off clutch shaft ? Any idea what would the last operator would have done to break the clutch shaft ? Thanks Shane.
Hi-ball, don't envy you but I think you should be able to remove the shaft w o removing trans. Didn't realise you had a winch also but if you can remove the bolts from ring gear and press it away from flange on the shaft, then ring gear can just lay there until you get broken shaft out and new one shoved in there. Try removing bolts in ring gear and loosen bearings, then block r g opisite of pinion and get a small jack or some way to put horizontal preasure on shaft to move it out of r g. To remove flanges I made a puller out of the flange of a truck axe, cut off axle, gring smooth and drill a 7/8 hole or bigger in center, weld a 7/8 nf nut on one side in center and get a good 7/8 nf bolt to fit. then cut two holes to match the puller holes in the flange. Put good bolts in that attatch to flange and apply preasure with the 7/8 bolt and wait a bit, rap it good with a hammer but try not to mar machined surface in flange.If this dosn't work a little more preasure and heat the flange with a torch. Don't get in a hurry, let the heat soak in. By the way just loosen the big bolt in center of flange and back out about 1/4 in and use it to push against with the puller bolt. Those are tapered splines so just a little movement and they should come loose. Assume you have the fuel tank off so you can get to the compartments. Never had to do one with the pto shaft in as my experience has all been with farm cats. Maybe to remove the winch might be simpler. If you have a conopy etc it can be more work but just remember it's just bolts and time. I'm talking about this from memory only as my books are 20 mi. away at the shop but will try to get there tomorrow and refresh my memory. The bearing retainers have two threaded holes in them so after you remove bolts you can screw a bolt in those holes and push retainer away from housing. do this evenly and just a 1/2 turn on each side at a time and they should come out fine. Might want to leave bearing retainers in place but loose when moving shaft to help hold everything kind of in line. be sure to have enough slack so shaft can move. Lot of luck, they are a good tractor. Engineered ahead of their time compared to some other colors.The fanges have two puller holes close to hub that you use to pull or attach the puller to flange, do not use holes on outside that clutches attact to as it will warp the flanges. Don't want that. Probably cut slotted holes in truck axle flang for these bolts so everything lines up OK. What caused this? probably somebody trying to side cast or make a cut in hard rock and repetive hard use of this steering clutch. Remember the AC cats of this vintage had a double reduction final drive, not like their yellow and red cousins so everything in the trans and ring gear, steering clutches etc out to the final drive gear is turning twice as fast but with half the strain. Sometimes speed kills.Who knows? also the big bolt in center of flanges does not have a very thick head. I used a good six point impact socket and gound it flat so the socket had as much grip as it could. If you round the bolt head off it's cutting torch time.Probably need a 3 ft cheater on 3/4 socket to loosen center bolts on flanges and be sure to turn them the right way. both are rh thread. Good kuck, you will be proud when it's done. BTW if you remove the winch the pto shaft should come right out as it has a spline that hooks it to the trans and not a tight fit.