One side of a frayed and split hydraulic hose goes to the hard metal line to the backhoe bucket and the other end goes to the valve in a devil of a tight place, right under the floor with the swing cylinders blocking access from the underside. I know it's a long shot, but I'm looking for some clever trick to get that fitting loose without taking up the whole floor section and then removing two or more other hoses in the top row (the bucket hose is underneath that row). Also, any do's or don'ts when dealing with the fittings, it doesn't leak much now at the fittings and I'd like to keep it that way.
Air hammer and a long punch to break it loose then if you can get your hands on it to spin it the rest of the way off. 4 way angle head wrenches or a shorty wrench and a ratchet strap to break it loose might work.
Case sold Flare nut crows foot sockets for those. There different than standard crows foot, there Rounded and 12 Point. They come in metric and SAE. You could find a set at a tool store. I recommend them if you plan on keeping the machine. Otherwise your taking other hoses off to get to the one you want. Sorry for the Modem Melter. Tom
Yes, I've been looking at sets of crows foot wrenches, and an extension with a ratchet/ breaker bar might work but local stores don't keep the jumbo ones in stock, as for the punch, no way to get to it, and even if I could break the old one free, I'd still have to have better access to tighten the new one. At this point, if I want to try and "get er done" I think I'll continue with moving the cover of the joy stick assembly, and see if maybe the small hole there is enough to get in to start removing hoses in the way.
I actually wrote that message last night, but forgot to post it, thanks Tom for verifying the idea that they will work in this situation, and I do plan to get a set one way or another, also, I may just wait and do something else while I get the right tool for the job, no sense disturbing good hose connections if I don't have to. I'll make some more calls. by the way, in these sizes will metric and sae work equally? I think my machine is sae, although reading manuals I got the impression it was metric.
also, I notice the wrench you show is smaller than an inch and the ones I've seen in the larger than an inch (these take a 1&1/8 and a 1&1/4 wrench size) and those jumbo sizes (which I've only seen straight sides), don't have the rounded multi positions yours shows. do your larger sizes have the same profile?
Never came across the "Grey" brand of tools, any chance to a link for them? I have some Snap-On crows foots but they are only 6 point sockets in the smaller sizes and the larger ones that are 12 point are not as heavy as that Grey brand one in the picture. I did a search for "Grey" and only find "Grey Pneumatic" and as the name sounds only list impact type socket tools.
Yes, Try This Link https://shopgraytools.com/collections/crowfoot-wrench Tom
I took another look at it this morning, and moved the metal stand for the joysticks and there is a small access hole in the floor, but I would have to take off the upper row of hoses and my regular combination wrench won't even fit over the flare nut unless I start on the end and work in. calling around the best I could do was a metric set (straight, not multi point and rounded) down in Lynchburg, everything else is by mail order. Richmond may have a store that sells them, but I haven't found it yet. Lynchburg might be another spot, but so far nothing on premises. I may end up ordering a couple sockets from gray, thanks for the link--
That gray link got complicated, sale price of 26 went to 60$ and when I called they said they sell to canada but only to US through amazon....more bad news finally found the right search and bought a 12 pt 1-1/4 on ebay--22.50, I'll have to wait a week, but the profile is slender and it looks like a good tool. I couldn't find a 1-1/8, but I may be able to manipulate an open end onto one side of the fitting as a stationary and use the 1&1/4 crowfoot to break it free and turn it off
You won't regret it. It's the only way to do it as long as you get a quality tool. If the inner fitting breaks loose on the valve body it's not the End of the world. Take the other hose end off first, and pull out to lay straight, and let drain. Then if the fitting comes loose just turn the whole hose assembly to remove it. Separate the fitting and reinstall in the valve body with a deep socket. Also you have to watch that "some" aftermarket hose makers use a larger Crimp collar and the crows foot won't fit over it. That's why Case used 5/8 hose. Tom
thanks, look like a good selection of tools. Guess I might have had better luck if I spelled the name correctly! And that was even after two cups of coffee! One dope slap for me!
gas burner 580 ck ser#4169103 any guess`s at the year? fact.forklift
The 580 Ck was built from 1966 to 1971 Ser#'s 1966: 8279001 1967: 8307001 1968: 8332501 1969: 8356507 1970: 8650001 1971: 8674001 The 530 CK was built from 1960 to 1967 Ser#'s 1960: 8160001 1961: 8168801 1962: 8190001 1963: 8208001 1964: 8229001 1965: 8253501 1966: 8279001 1967: 4107201-4124100 Looks like 67 only was even close to your numbers. I would have to research a little more to get more info. Case changed the forklift models staring with the 580 series. The forklift version of the 580 CK was 586,b,c,d,e My guess yours is actually a 530 and was miss labeled sometime after a repaint? But could be a early 580 forklift reflected by the different serial number. Tom
could be my goof to, that serial may be for the lift parts only theres another tag
8364392 turns out to sometime in69
I wouldn't recommend the snap on 12pt nut crowsfeet. Mine usually spread and slip on anything that needs good force