My '81 JD450C (6405) had a recent problem with the right hand brake/clutch lever. The brake got suddenly "grabby", then failed altogether. The lever will come all the way back with no affect. I think the clutch still works, but if I'm on level or downhill ground, I can't turn right (except by backing up to the left). The manual has a pretty good diagram of how everything works, but it doesn't describe how you get to things. Is it under the floorboard or does some major disassembly have to take place? My neutral safety switch quit recently as well, and I'm hoping it's down there too. Regarding the brake, I did recently overall the the six-way valves, and probably gushed a fair amount of fluid in the direction of the brake band. Maybe that's the root cause?
yea, step one is to remove the operators station, hydraulic tank, fuel tank and tracks...
Then I guess I'll be perfecting my turning by reversing technique...I hope you're pulling my leg.
I have a 450B and it has dry clutches. The C is supposed to be wet....I don't think spilled hydraulic oil is your problem. My B has small covers over each clutch/brake (for adjustment), not sure if C's do. However, that might give you a view into the works. There are two steps to turning when pulling the lever- disconnect the drive to that track w the clutch, then more aggressive turn by engaging brake. I had one side fail and when I tore into it, found the adjustment bolt that connected linkage had stripped. Hopefully you'll find a minor issue and not something more major....which would require pulling tank, breaking track, etc! If lantraxco sees your post, I'm sure he'll chime in....he knows lots about Deere. DB
My dozer doesn't see a lot of use, and when I tried to exercise it before last season's fire season, the right lever was sluggish. After removing the seat, I found that the lever was semi-seized to the shaft that runs through both levers. I disconnected the springs, and clutch and brake linkages and exercised the heck out of the lever with lots of PBBlaster. I tried to disassemble the shaft, but I couldn't get to the circlip on the end of the shaft, and gave up with a "not perfect, but usable" repair. When I went to plow our driveway last week, the lever worked perfectly (maybe the penetrating oil sitting for six months or maybe the 15F temperature?) but the brake was grabby, but only after the lever was pulled further than normal. The clutch worked fine. After ten minutes, the grabby-ness was replaced with no brake at all. The linkages visible under the operator's seat look normal. Since I have to work in an open shed, and don't have all the tools I'd need, I'll have the thing trailer-ed 75 miles to a shop. It needs new sprockets anyway, so it might be the time to do lots of work. Unless someone convinces me that track removal, etc. is easy work for a 66 year old with recent back surgery
From my B manual: #1 is the shaft the steering lever operates, #8 is the rod to the clutch throw-out arm that stripped online. There's a lot that goes on inside the case when you pull the lever! Again, yours may be set up differently. Some other pages... When you're pushing and pull both handles back partially, does just the left side stop turning (spin the right or turn left)...would mean steering clutch not disengaging. If you pull further does the engine lug? Would mean steering brake works. If track still has power and brake doesn't grab then, sounds like it's between steering lever and innards of housing. I've heard if you change just some track components (sprocket but not track or other way around) the worn part can quickly wear out the new part. We're kinda in the same boat...I'm just about here age-wise and don't have inside work area DB
Do not assume that you have to take the tracks off. There is a lot you can do before that becomes a certainty. You can even do some of the steering clutch/brake maintenance on 450 A and B without removing the operator station, just use a hoist to raise the tank a few inches. I have been lucky in the past but it's been 35 years and I can't remember the details.
If I'm headed up hill, the steering works fine, so my assumption has been that the clutch works fine. No amount of force on the lever will slow the track down if headed downhill or level. Left lever works as usual. I'm guessing the band broke or one of the brake struts slipped off the flange on the band. I haven't discovered how to look down on the brake yet, but there's two feet of fresh snow between the house and the dozer, so I haven't looked hard. Once the operator's seat is out (with the floor that it sits on), exposing the transmission fill cap and lever linkages, what's the next layer of the onion to peel?
So, on my B, where the operating rod goes to each side clutch housing, there is a small panel held by 6 bolts on top of a larger, cast lid. I remove the small one to adjust the clutch and removing the larger (approx 8"x 18") cover gives you view of clutch pack and brake band…and where you'd remove same up/out of housing. The smaller cover is accessible with just the seat removed. Also, anti-seize compound is my new favorite choice for the control shafts, etc. The shaft that your steering levers are on may have an Allen bolt in the center to hold the shaft stationary. DB
Are the brakes (and clutch) on the same axle as the sprocket (or at least on a line between the sprockets)?
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=6528&highlight= JDCrawler forum. Hopefully the link works. Member Crawler123 does a nice job (w lots of pics) of tearing into the back of his B for brakes. To your question: Power is split under the rear main frame and sent out to each side. Each side has a clutch and brake. They are approximately in-line with the track sprocket. DB
Here's a pic from when I did the left side...hopefully you can see how things are layed out. DB
No, there is a final drive in-between... Howard
Thanks for everyone input. I'll think about the proposition once the snow melts.
I threw in the towel and took my dozer to a local shop. The mechanic is thinking my brake drums are worn, but as an engineer, the bands seem more likely. Both drums are very close to the same, and the bands are also very close. Both adjusters were at their tighten limit. My manuals are all over at his shop, so I can't look, but are there wear limits for the band thickness and drum diameter? My right clutch had a few bad scars/tears on a few of the plates, so he's replacing all the plates, both metal and padded.
Neither one of mine on my 450C was working. I had to remove both covers and inspect and adjust them. The adjustment can be done without removal of the covers, by removing a 1" plug on each side. It has an adjuster like drum brakes do.
Mine were both already adjusted to the limit of the threads on the adjustment bolt. I'm just trying to figure out if the drums are worn or the bands have gotten "thin".
Band lining material is the sacrificial component, it will eventually grind into the clutch drum but should not go deep enough to warrant replacement for literally years upon years.
What I'm looking for is the wear limit on the band, since my manual is at the mechanic.