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Adapting Hydraulic winch to Dresser TD7G

Willie B ยท 2016-01-10 19:51

I may have mentioned the purchase of a Dresser TD7G It's the perfect size in the woods for small scale logging. I want a winch. Thus far I haven't found the correct OEM winch for it. I'm weighing the options. I presume the original winch used a PTO added to the tractor to drive full time a hydraulic pump, then valve the hydraulic winch operation. I still want an OEM winch, I'm concerned it might be unobtainable. Some nice hydraulic winches are out there, could I plumb another valve between the blade valves, and tank to get power beyond hydraulics for an aftermarket winch? I've been cautioned that these won't hold up to log skidding duty. I reason I can hoist a log into an arch, and chain it to frame, loosen winch cable before dragging. Will it work? Willie

Replies6
  1. #1Delmer2016-01-10 21:25

    I don't see why it wouldn't work. The aftermarket hydraulic winch is what "won't hold up to log skidding duty" right? I can't tell you what it will take to add a valve to your existing valve bank? sorry. Don't just add another valve down the line. You could use a tee before the existing valves to a closed center valve, then you'd have to deadhead one of the existing functions and operate the closed center valve to make the winch work. Somebody posted wondering how to fix that mess, but it seems like a good idea to me:beatsme The other thing to consider is if the power/speed will be enough for you running off the existing hydraulics. The OEM winch might be pto clutch driven, have more power than the hydraulics? edit: didn't see gman's post, and he didn't see mine... there you go

  2. #2g_man2016-01-10 21:27

    The original winch was a Gearmatic 19. It was pto driven not hydraulic. There is a Dresser/IH TD7G or 8E winch mounting adapter which bolts on the rear frame of the dozer. It has a bearing/shaft assembly that bolts on in place of the round access cover. The shaft couples into the transmission input shaft thru the back of the transmission. The Gearmatic 19 winch bolts onto the adapter. I have also looked for a winch. It is the adapter with the bearing/shaft assembly that I can't find. I thought about a hydraulic winch too. Might do it someday but running at WOT to get 13.7 gal/minute hydraulic flow and still having a very slow winch just doesn't sound that exciting to me. Your idea of the external pump would probably be better if you can come up with a pto shaft. I have manuals and p/n's. If it will help you just pm me. gg

  3. #3Willie B2016-01-11 07:52

    I'd sure like the original set. Dresser ain't John Deere as in quantity. Dead tractors are badly beaten. Logging tractors tend never to be cream puffs. If I were in the position of seller, I'd know it is sought after. I'm a fabricator, and like the challenge of building this. I was of the belief I had open center hydraulics where oil flowed constantly from pump, through valve, to filter, to tank. Other systems I've tapped for this sort of thing have been a matter of intercepting the return line after the existing valves. The easier solution would be electric. I admit I've never had a big electric winch, Those I have familiarity with are anemic! I find 18,000 LB line tension hydraulic winches advertised at around $2000. When paired with a snatch block, it should be functional. Willie

  4. #4Delmer2016-01-11 09:39

    Yes, I assume it's open center with a simple system like that. You can add a random valve downstream, and it will work, just like the "jerry rigged" version I mentioned. Adding a downstream valve will double the relief pressure if you happen to use both valves at the same time, unless the valves are connected properly. Electric will have even less power than hydraulic, that would be my last choice if you're using it more than once or twice a day.

  5. #5g_man2016-01-11 10:48

    It is open center and the flow is 13.7 gal/min at max rpm. The system pressure relief is set at 2000 psi. You can plumb in like you said. There is even a spare port on the tank if you want another return. I was going to put my new valve ahead of the blade valve cluster. Run the power beyond from the new valve to the blade valve group and the return from the new valve back to the spare tank port. My plan was to break into the pump outlet under the floor where there is a joint and plenty of room. That way I would not have to get into the crowded valve box beside the seat. gg

  6. #6lantraxco2016-01-11 11:53

    Might be helpful, it's old though: http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/74792-td7g-winch-adapter-question/