Can I tap a 5/16th or 3/8 th inch bolt (one) hole in the side of my dipper stick for a quick disconnect bracket for my thumb? Or would I need to tap the hole in a piece of metal plate and weld the plate on? If so, what shape of plate? Weld it with what type of wire? There are no doublers in the area I want to do this. This bracket will also be attached to a line clamp on top of the stick. hugs, Brandi
I wouldn't be drilling holes in the stick itself, other than that I have no input on the rest of your questions, wiser folk will be along momentarily....
Thanks. I'm leaning towards the welded plate. Don't wanna poke holes if all of Y'all say so. hugs, Brandi
How about a picture of the spot you want to mount this thing? Are you running steel tubes to this, or hose? Sometimes you can just double clamp off the existing steel lines on both sides.
I'll be running steel lines the same length and shape as the bucket cylinder lines. I will piggyback those clamps. The bolt hole I am thinking about in the stick side is for the quick disconnect fitting bracket. It will have a bolt in the side and pick up the clamp stud on top of the stick. Here is a hot photo hot off the press. X marks the spot when I wanna have a tapped hole added. hugs, Brandi
Our machines have the quick couplers down on the stick, not up on the boom. The brackets are welded right to the sides of the stick. Our 892, a 330, and 350 all had the same setup with the welds on the sides of the sticks never any issues. The thumbs were all home made as well.. we have a new 350 Kobelco with a new thumb and bucket being made, and I would surmise that it will be the same setup. Truth be told, the 350 Deere with the quick couplers, always leaks a bit when the thumb is off, but the old 330 has threaded fittings, never leaks with the plugs installed. Mind you changing it is messier.
Cuttin edge, Thanks for noticing that. I guess I needed to go to bed. The threaded plate hole will be on the boom side and not the stick. My stick is only 6 foot long with the thumb about 4 foot long, so the thumb hoses will have about the same flex and bend as the bucket cylinder lines do. hugs, Brandi
Hey Brandi, Here is how my Volvo is plumbed. they have threaded blocks welded on to the boom and stick for attaching lines and pipes. Clamping to existing lines is fine to.
Farmerlund, Thanks for the photos. They are a big help when trying to design a home brewed installation!
Its not a good idea to drill holes in the boom or stick, your just asking for cracks later. I have installed a lot of aux hydraulic systems in the past, and welding blocks to the needed areas has never been a problem. I try not to do more welding than what is needed for the job at hand. You don't need heavy code welds to hold tube lines or blocks, usually good tack welds are the best.
Thanks. I'll weld on what I need. hugs, Brandi
Next question.....can I weld all 4 sides of this 2 inch square tapped plate to the boom side? Or just the top and bottom? It's 1/2 inch thick. The red bracket in the photo is one I redid for my tractor loader QDs. I'm just using it as a visual mockup. hugs, Brandi
Mine are welded on all 4 sides. I would think 2 sides would be fine. I would weld the 2 sides that are parallel to the boom.
Yes, weld parallel with the boom and not across it. Four 1/2" welds in the corners would be sufficient or drill the holes in the bracket bigger and use plug welds to hold it on.
Thanks guys. Can I weld it with Hobart E71T11 .030 flux core wire? All I have is that in .030. I know the thumb manufacturer told me to weld the thumb on with 7018. hugs, Brandi
Just for the bracket it should be OK.
That is what I was thinking. The local welding shop tacked the thumb on, then used another welding machine with 7018 on it. That was what made me think it is okay. hugs, Brandi
Yair . . . My two bobs worth . . . I was told many years ago the best way to weld brackets and attachments on to potentially high stress areas is to mount them on a circular doubler plate (say two or three inches in diameter) and attach the doubler with a good smooth weld all around. I disliked stitching plates on or incomplete welds as we were working in salt water and they would be forever bleeding rust. Cheers,
Were the unwelded areas sealed? Or just left opehn to the elements? hugs, Brandi
Yair . . . Hello bindian . When working around salt water I like to seal weld all plates brackets and doublers . . . if salt water can get between two plates rust will bleed out. In many cases the full weld may not be necessary for strength but depending where it is rust weeping from a repair can look bad on a machine. Cheers.
Thanks for the reply Scrub Puller. I always enjoy reading your posts. I meant on sealing with two part water proof sealant. hugs, Brandi
I welded the plates on today. Here is the first pass on the upper end. ........and the final pass. Remember, I've just started mig welding. hugs, Brandi
...........and here are the no so good lower plate welds...............First. Boy does that hot slag burn! ...........and final. hugs, Brandi
Here is the primed, sides sealed, and painted QD mounting plate. I sealed the sides the same way we seal aircraft skin seams and around windows and antennas. It won't get moisture under there, for sure. hugs, Brandi
Why not practice some welding first before you jump right in on your boom? You could have posted some pics. and we could have helped you to improve your welding.
I didn't have a spare boom to practice on. lol The bottom ones were overhead and kinda got me hot. Made me jumpy. Kinda hard to practice that. hugs, Brandi
You don't need to have another boom to practice overhead welding on.
Dave, Did you get my private message? hugs, Brandi
I'll take a look.