Just wondering if anyone has ever added any additional counterweight to their machine and if so any issues with it. I find with my zero tailswing working on any slope makes things real tricky. Any cons to do doing this? Would it be hard on the house swing bearing or other components?
I've heard of this. When i bought my new 305CCR the sales rep told me that you could put a bigger counterweight on it to make it a 6 Tonn machine. The only down fall he told me was that it stuck out past the tracks but other than that I cant see why not
My 303 has an extra counterweight on it, with a lil tail pipe extender too. The only problem I could foresee is a bigger tailswing as well but that just takes some getting used to. I'd go for it.:thumbsup
Here in the UK we seem to want all our mini's with long arms/dippers so therefore most manufacturers offer an add on counterweight either as standard or as an cost option on their zero/short radius tailswing excavators. As stated earlier this mainly adds tailswing so can defeat the purpose of buying the machine in the first place!! Could you make a removeable one e.g one that slides into the back of the standard machine counterweight or possibly a series of individual counterweights (makes it easier to install/deinstall by hand) that added together will make a larger counterweight.
anyone have any pictures of this?
I like the idea of hanging several small weights so I can remove them if the ZTS is important for certain jobs. If I could find some large plastic coated barbell weights that would be great. I'm thinking about 400lbs would do it.
Make 4 1/2 inch all thread bars about a foot or two long and attach them you may be able to vary up to 200 lbs per bar
i have a similar set up on my quad for plowing snow that runs on my trailer hitch
What way are you considering installing the weights on the machine e.t.c Are you going to have a removeable bracket which hangs onto/over the standard counterweight between the counterweight and the engine or are you going to have to weld on some mounts/holders for the barbell bar e.t.c onto the counterweight?
If you look at the picture I posted of the rear of the machine you will see 2 indents with holes that go through the existing counter weight. I'll get a couple of 1" (or whatever size the hole is) bolts machined to fit that then find someone giving up some barbell 50 or 75 lb weights and hang them on. The other thought was some suitcase weights from a small tractor or some slabs of 3/4" steel plate that I could still lift off myself.
yeah, that would work ,a few steel plates would help. Also if you have the clearence on the job, what would really help would be extending the weight out almost like a see saw, but that gets into some stresses on different parts of the machine
Can I ask a stupid question?? What is the grey/silver aperatus on the right hand side of your machine? Back on topic - looking forward to seeing the results (your machine looks in stunning condition by the way, nice one!!)
It looks like a piece of steel at 24"x12"x1" is about 82lbs
Well after reading these posts i went back to work and was looking out the window kinda laughed a bit. This machine has removal counterweight on it. Not that funny i know but i think the tracks will last forever. Cheers Charlie
I think I figured out what I will do. I went to the farm show yesterday and saw some of the big 4 wheel drive tractors have a lot of front suitcase weights hanging off the front end. These weights simply hang off a bracket. Each one weighs about 100lbs. I will fashion a bracket to bolt to my existing counter weight then hang the weights. Unfortunately I have to wait till spring when I go back to my acreage and work on Yanni. By the way the "silver" aparatus on the right side of "Yanni" is the A/C condenser
How much is needed to feel a difference
I found the weights I want to use at the tractor wrecker. They are front weights from an old 1370 CASE farm tractor. Each one weighs 75 lbs and I will put on about 5 of them. This should give me 400lbs with the bracket. I would think 400lbs would make a difference I could feel in the seat. This should offset the weight of my thumb and empty bucket at least.
You should notice that!! - especially when you consider that the extra weight will be hanging out further than your standard counterweight so if you follow the principal of levers and fulcrums e.t.c The weight of a cab over a canopy on many smaller machines makes a noticeable difference to stability and cabs weigh approx 200 lbs.
I have a 435 that actually does fine in the stock configeration.The track undercarrage is larger and heavier for its size.I have always felt that to get the best use of extra weight whether its on a skid or mini you should keep it as low as possible. The metal tracks on my skid create an amazing amount of stability in all types of applications.The counterweight that came on my second skid was great for lifting but really changed the way the machine handled when turning on pavement so I took it off. I would think that adding weight to the lower chassi would be more of an advantage than mounting on the house.Anytime I add weight to to the house you are raising center of gravity. something you don't want on steep ground.Adding weight to the house would be the simplest thing to do but I would rather not lose my swing clearance. The more weight on the house is harder on the swing brake and circle having to stop and start extra weight. My tracks are almost shot (1500 hrs) so I plan to purchase metal link tracks with the rubber pads although I HAVE NOT researched to see if these tracks are applicable with my fast track system. If this does not work out,I will simply add weight to my undercarrage. What do you guys Think? Scott
Could you add a weight bar to the under carriage and have one on the rear of the machine. That way you can put the weight were you need it
Upnover. you got the weights and the machine, you can't hurt anything by expermenting a little.I'm interested in how the machine reacts to the different weights. Your machine has narrower tracks relative tto the size of the house so it's always going to be tippy over the side. Chain 400 lbs to your blade and see if you notice a difference in the way it handles. I did mount a set of forks to to my blade so I could carry block and rock. An extra two tons of concrete seems to make a difference. . Scott
The only issues I could see with adding weight to the undercarriage is that you are likely to get the weights caught on something whilst tracking which could be annoying. The other issue is that the undercarriage doesn't rotate so when working with the house in one position the machine may appear stable but rotate 90-180 degress and the weight is not where you want it to be (e.g. counterbalancing) and the machine becomes unstable. Usually short or zero tailswing models sit on the same size if not slightly larger undercarriage than their standard tailswing counterparts and use the same hydraulic components e.t.c so by adding counterweight to the rear of the machine you are not putting the components under any more strain than what they would work with on a non zero tailswing machine - not only that an owner operator would probably treat the machine with a bit of sympathy whilst running a modification like this!!
Strott, the idea of putting weight on the blade was just an idea that would let him feel the difference in configuration with out having to commit. On my 435, a lot of the counter weight is attached to the bottom of the house along with a super heavy access door. If I got serious enough to add steel, I would keep the weight as close to the turntable, probably attached on the side between the tracks and the turntable with the total weight split between the two sides.I have lots of room to attache weight but I am going to see if the tracks will be sufficient.I am hoping the added weight of the tracks, down low and to the outside will inhance the stability. Again ,I am actually fine with how the machine is balanced now. I am close to maximizing the gvw of my trailer so I don't want to add too much to the machine weight. If I go over, it means a new trailer. The idea of getting the weight off the house is more important the smaller the mini you have because of the narrower tracks and higher center of gravity. A six ton machine will have wider set of tracks which gives it better leverage against tipping. The place you see the concept of heavy chassies used the most is in your timber harvesters. The spiderhoes seem to be built that way too, except they have more freedom to adjust their center of gravity.I agree the wear and tear from adding weights to the house is not an issue.
All good points gents and well taken. I know what you mean about a narrow undercarriage! They could have stretched it at least 6" wider I think. My only problem as I pointed out earlier I cant get to doing the mods till I get back to my summer place where I keep Yanni till the spring of 2010. I will keep you all posted of how it works out.
How are you guys thinking of attaching the CW? On my PC50 i was thinking of 250-300 lbs on the tail, and the same or to 500lbs on the under carriage.
Landtek - sorry I missunderstood your post!! Putting the weight on the blade to test the weight is a great idea as you say without committing. As you say the narrower the machine the more important it is to keep the weight low - so bolting onto the lowest possible point of the standard counterweight would be advisable!!
strott. Sorry it took so long to respond.Chaining a weight is a poor man's way to find a solution. I use to apply this to the women in my life, but the idea of trying out new things without committing didn't fly with most of them. Great to read posts from you guys in the U.K.Scott