I am looking to get a little advice on what crawler loader to purchase. I will not be using commercially, just around my property to clear brush, level dirt and hopefully dig a pond or two. I had an OC-46 a few years back and while had alot of fun it just wasn't strong enough. I'm currently looking at a Komatsu D21 loader and a 1968 case 450. The Komatsu is pedal steer but doesn't have the 4n1 bucket that the case does. Does anyone know anything about these machines? Would either or both of these fit my need? I think the case is about 50 hp while the komatsu is about 40 hp. Thanks in advance.
the case for the Case The Komatsu will be the easiest to operate and maintain, but if you're brave enough to go for the Case, it'll be more versatile with the 4-in-1. If you can make a decent fist of operating a Case, there's no other tracked loader will hold any fears for you. Make sure the transmission is good, i.e. both tracks will engage high and low, not just one speed and neutral. Some of the techs logged on will enlarge on this for you. I envy you guys in the States, you all seem to have enough land to play on. I could just about park a Bobcat outside.
I like the Case 450 because it is strong, easy to operate and parts are readily available. I would recommend a rear attachment (ripper, winch) to better balance the unit, especially if it has the added weight of the 4x1 front bucket.
Thanks for the advice. Anything else I should look for other than the tracks engaging in both gears? Also, in the pics attached, the circled area, sorry I don't know the proper term, there is a couple of inches of play in that arm. if you're standing in front of the machine it will move left and right probably about 2-3 inches overall movement. Is that normal? easily fixed? Like I said before the machine is a late '60s model base on my sn research, but it has a reman 207 engine, but its been sitting at the dealer for about 2 1/2 years now.
You're looking at the crowd ram linkage. As I remember (25 years since I drove a 450) they were always a bit loose in this area, but as long as there's no wear around the pin radius, I wouldn't be too alarmed by the sideplay. If it bugs you too much you can shim it. Even from quite low hours that particular area "talked" a lot when tracking or slewing with an empty bucket. It wasn't the best designed loader geometry, that honour went to International/Drott's Z-linkage. I'd get a bit of tension in those tracks before you go into the rough as well.
New Member here! Just bought a Dresser 125E with a 4n1 bucket. I was looking at Dozers, but felt the 4n1 bucket would be better here on my place, clearing my property. And am very glad I got it. BZ59
case spent a week or two on an 450 case (not quite that old but still a dinosaur) in the quarry a few years ago in between digging jobs.(The other guys were too chicken to get on it) Didn't find it to bad except it was pretty loud (no muffler).It was good fun actually Something different and a new experience although I'd spent a couple years on a cat 428 4x4 & a cat 950 so was used to using 4 in 1's. Another guy I know had one. Used to contract to the council etc. Got a very good run out of his.
whoops meant to put this in the last post ointhead Definitley get something with a 4 in 1. Waaay more versatile. Give it a bit of a run if possible. Try to lift the front of the ground with the bucket to check the track idlers somewhat. Make sure all the hydraulics operate without any shuddering etc Everything should be fairly smooth mate
Cat 955K or L is a little bigger but a bigger machine and more money. A 941 would do it for you too. No 4 in ones on the Cats for the most part though. My advise is to stay away from the Deeres.
Do not know why you would want to stay away from John Deere.The 450C is a great trackloader? They have enough power to hurt themselves.
Case 450 The D21 Komatsu are good machines,but without a 4in1,they are only half a machine.The 450 had a good reputation & will be heavier than the D21. I always hear of brake problems with the 450s,but I wouldn't be put off by that. Make sure you get it inspected by someone who knows about Case Track Loaders. You don't want to be paying for tranny overhaul or engine/hydraulic failures. If unsure,always pay a qualified guy to inspect. Good luck..
Thanks for all the advice. I hope to take the Case for a ride next weekend. so we'll see. The dealer is asking more than I think its worth, but he's also been sitting on it for over a year now.
That is the problem with the Deeres. They hurt themselves. Their hydraulics are a nightmare. They are also a real little SOB to work on right from changing the oil on down.
International 500 I passed an International 500 with a 4n1 bucket this morning on the way to work. Anyone know anything about these?
enough to tell you to stay away from anything that says International on it. Know a guy who had a 195 and later a 175 international. Bad scene with both of them.
International 500 adding pics
Those 500s are a handy small loader.If you can get it for the right $$$,& it runs OK ...go for it.Make sure you give it a good run & look over before buying. The guys on the Redpower construction forum will be of help for advice on the 500.
hello everyone ....
I Have Always Been On The 953's And 963's So That Is The Only Machine That I Can Tell You About... The 53's And 63's Are Good Strong Machines Honestly...But They May Be Too Big For What You Are Wanting One For...
Hello Alvaro...
The komatsu would be the best bet newer and user friendly Im not a big fan of 4in1s they dont hold up real well.
we've got a 941b that is in great shape i think that it is a 74 model dad bought it in 76. we have owned it ever since. it doesn't have a 4 n1 but they are just something that you sill break. i dug my basement with it last year still a strong machine. we just have a 943 and a 953b and only two operaters..it needs to go. 4233068892 lynn
Be gentle with me guys - you could inscribe what I know about track machines on the head of a pin! I have about 100 acres of very rocky country (i.e steep and partially cleared with rock laden soil) and am looking for a machine to do some clearing, dam and road maintenance but do not want to spend $30,000 for a farm machine. So far I am tending toward a Case 850 Drott loader with rippers and a 4 way bucket, but most of the dealers here seem to be pushing the little Mitsubishi BD2 Dozers with a 6 way blade. If someone can steer me in the right direction and give me any tips as to what to look for I would greatly appreciate the help (I have training in Mechanical Engineering and experience with Tractors so have an understanding of hyraulics, diesel engines and transmissions etc.) Thanks.
Hi David Mc, I'd go for the Case if I were you...it would be a great property machine. You'll need to learn how to operate the steering/drive system,as they are different to most machines.There is one specialist Case dismantler in NSW ,& a number of aftermarket suppliers too.Track gear is easily found also. Get a qualified mechanic to look over the machine.You want to know that the trans ,engine,undercarriage & hydraulics are in good order. You'll find a lot of smaller contractors in Bris,Syd,Melb that have owned Case 850s in the past..I know Case owners who won't buy any other brands. The Mitsubishi dozers are nice,well built machines...but parts are expensive & hard to get .I also think the Mits dozer is too small for your needs. The dealers push them coz they pick them up for cheap at RB auctions & offload them for 10K profit.Ask your dealer about parts back up..... Good luck.
Thanks Jim, I appreciate your advice. I'm looking at a Case 850 Drott loader a the moment - not a bad machine, but the seller has sold the rippers off it (hydraulics are still there) and it only has a GP bucket. I would have thought that one of these machines with a 4 in 1 and rippers would be worth about $24K-$25K, but in light of the mucking around rquired to get it up to what I am looking for, what would you consider a fair offer (running gear is about 75%)?
Hi DM, I sent you an email. JimInOz
I let the Case go - it was a 70's model with 3500hrs and went for just over $13K.
Anyone know anything about Massey Ferguson MF400 track loaders? Looking at one with a 4 in 1 bucket, 3 tine rippers and a 6 cylinder Perkins Diesel as a property machine.
David, ** are hard to get certain parts for.I think the 500 was a real dog of a machine,but unsure about the 400's reputation. The 200 & 300 were OK,but parts are not easy to get.
Sold a 977llk cat last summer 4 under $7k, ran great , tracks not great but still had life. tranny would warm up after 6hr in quarry, brutal work, had rops. Anyway if you want to move alot of dirt on some acreage you might want to consider something bigger. a little case could not come close to what that cat could do. They don't break often. when the do it can be $ , cat classic parts are reasonable though. For what they can do they are undervalued because most people want smaller machines and they are no-longer mainstream contractor items but with powershift, pedal steer and directstart they are still convenient to run. So unless you are in tight quarters go for something bigger. the case next to a 12" tree is small. the cat will just mow it over. Sold the cat for under 7k cause i bought it for under 7k 7 years ago. also had a a.c. hd19 loader,JUNK!
internationals we never had problems with our internationals. we had 1 td6, 2 td9, and a 175b .aside from general upkeep they really didnt require much work.never had a break down and i just bought another one to play with.after looking at a jd 350,an international 100 and an international 500e ,i settled on a nice small 1965 t-340.picked it up for 1500 bucks ,mechanically its sound but its ugly as hell. the 175 track loader was considered to be one of internationals finest machines. . they can be bought fairly cheap and they are easy to work on. cant recall any maijor problems with them. ,
My short list of older track loaders would include Cat and, well, Cat. The old 955 and 977 models made in the 1960s and 1970s are cheap and tough. Amazing machines if you can find one that is not worn out. As with other older machines, the main problem is that people just keep on running them instead of maintaining them. Finding one in good condition can be tough.
got a clean fiat fl5 with a 4/1 bought it in 92 ,its a 89 w 2000 hrs had 500hrs when i got it, dont have much use for it other then some screening work when the tlb is on the job, its a strong loader , a 4/1 is a must
pic at http://gandgllc.com/ts1.jpg
I am also a newbe, bought a 1980 977L, cleaned it up painted it and have used it a little but I love it, only draw back for me is it is so heavy it is hard to get a trailer to move it.
new to forum hey sawmpdog, i just picked up an older 955, any info you might be able to share would be helpful... I have to get it running as it was put away in a shed 6 years ago.. hasn't been started since... the first priority is to get the pup motor running and then go from there.. any idea on where i would find the serial number plate so that i can research just hold old this guy is??? I have been told by the previouos owner that i can convert this machine to a direct starter in place of the pup... any thoughs or comments on that would be appreciated... thanks rod
Check out http://www.acmocbb.org/ACMOC_BB/ In the discussion forums they have conversion parts suppliers and a number of threads about doing it.
thank you, I will register and read all about it... tractor being delivered today... can hardly wait rod
What series 955? What engine in it? Man what a variation in terms. We call them "pony" here, Brits call them "donkey" you guys north of the border call them "pups." Didn't know I was so multilingual. Some of the conversions are real easy, some not so easy. On the Cat 318 engines which were used in the older D6's and graders the later engines had a small cover on the rear of either the block or bell housing which could be removed and the electric starter installed right there slick and easy. On the earler series a templet is required to make the hole for the nose cone of the starter as well as the three holes for the bolts that hold it in place. I can see where it can be a nasty job to get the holes in just the right place so that the starter will function properly. When I did my D7E the starter slid right in where the pony moter gear box starter shaft came out. All of the holes were there where they were required. To go direct electric if you want to will require conversion to 24 volt also. If you are lucky with the pony, or donkey, or pup for our "international readers" you may get by with just a good carburator cleaning, going through the points and condensor on the mag, plugs and wires. Good luck on her.
Greg, I believe it to be a model H as the engine serial plate starts with 12A. I will probably try to get it running the way it is, fresh gas in the pony/donkey/pup and fresh fuel in the diesel... couple of quick questions: 1) is the carb easy to get at after I have taken off the engine top cover (looks very heavy btw).. 2) is the diesel fuel filter(s) in the fuel pump assembly?? 3) how difficult is it to adjust the clutch?? is it done at the lever, or "deeper" ?? thanks rod
Carbon the pony is easy to get at if you are good at standing on your head without using your hands for support. Depending on the type of carb it may be easier to remove if you take out two screws and split it right on the machine. That would separate the float housing from the main body if it is the same as those on the graders. Fuel filters are separate from the injector pump in separate housing. These should be easy to get at and change. Do you mena steering clutches? Or do you have a direct drive and need to do the transmission clutch. Lots of manuals for sale on E-Bay at really good prices as well as parts books. An excellent investment.
thanks, I will get the top cover off first and see what I am dealing with.... the fuel has sat in the float and other parts of the carb for the past 6yrs, and smells aweful... definitely will need cleaning... fortunately previous owner shut off **** so i might be llucky and the fuel simply dried up.... i will look, but initial survey did not reveal anything that looked like large fuel canister filter... this machine has manual tranny and there is a hand clutch, but it seems to have no pressure.. do not know yet if steering clutches need adjustement... manual is definitely in my future... advise i have been given by more than one person after it was known what i was buying.... here are a couple of pictures i quickly took after it was dropped off. http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff80/rditz/IMG00112.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff80/rditz/IMG00114.jpg more to follow when i get deeper.... like what are all the knobs for... LOLO thanks rod
I had an1150 and thought it was gutless.... nothing smaller than a 1450 or you're wasting you're money . Just my opinion.
580bruce, just picked up JD450 myself, has one problem, runs great but won't steer, forward & back, no prob, if towed when not running and steering lever pulled, it will turn?? Any ideas?
Hey Cardantec, I just got a good deal on a little JD 350 with removeable back-hoe and after replacing both brake bands, steering clutches..rebuilding the water-pump,and a couple hyd. hoses, got a strong running machine. It sips fuel. Only 3500 hours showing on the clock. P O also threw in a 1978 Cargo star flatbed with a 3cyl detroit diesel commercial compressor to go along with the 1966 F-600 dump,which was also a token. Now if I could only get those tracks to tighten up a smid.(Frozen up hyd. adj cylinder.)Man it sure has traction with those fabricated grousers.Mabey wrong but sounds like you may need the brake band (s) adj.I have a friend that has a 70's model 450 and he has steering trouble when turning right but, steers okay in reverse.
Thanks for the tip, had a feeling it may have been brake bands, machine runs good and strong in every other aspect, Thanks again for your input, very much appreciated.
Did you want to sell it? Wags