So as some of you know I recently purchased a New Holland 675E. I purchased it knowing that at least one cylinder would need to be repacked ASAP. I am in the process of gathering up the stuff I will need to do the job. So, I went to messicks and they have the kit in stock (stabilizer cyl.) for $145 plus $11 for shipping shipping, and of course, plus tax. This puts me around $165. Complete tractor (see link below) has an aftermarket kit for $43 including tax and free shipping. Additionally, ebay has a kit for like $40 shipped. This is a big difference! My question is: Are these aftermarket kits 1. complete, 2. any good, 3. overall worthwhile. Or, should I go the extra $100 for OEM. I am looking for those that have used the aftermarket kits like I mentioned and how they worked out. TIA https://www.ebay.com/itm/85802571-S...r:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateEnvelope!08820!US!-1 https://www.completetractor.com/new...t-for-ford-new-holland-tractor-555e-85802571/
You get what you pay for on seals. I bought some cheap seals and it was a waste of my money, not to mention my time. After rebuilding the cylinder it leaked instantly. I figured I cut the seal. After inspection, the seal was about .01" larger on the ID than the original. I like Hercules and Bulldog brand. You don't need to pay top dollar for OEM. Steve
Dirty-Hoe, I looked on the buldog site and couldnt find the kit I need. Hercules has it for $55 delivered. If they are known good. I may just pull the trigger on that one. Sure beats $165. Thanks!
I rebuilt one stabilizer with a factory kit and one with an eBay kit. I couldn't tell the difference. That said I hope you don't run into the troubles I had with mine. I haven't looked so maybe your 2000 lists a different number than my 99 or maybe it has the right gland nut for the 858802571 kit. If yours looks like a virgin it is probably safe to order the 85802571 kit. Otherwise you may want to at least order the superseded gland nut and kit. My piston seal was the same that was in the 85802571 kit I bought so it was either original or the superseded piston uses the same seal. The wear ring in the 85802571 kit was wider than the one in my gland nut and the outer seal from that kit was .050” larger OD. I ended up reusing the wear ring that was in my gland and turning the outer seal bore out in a lathe to use the new outer seal.
NH575E, 85802571 is the kit that New Holland specifies for my machine. They do not specify a serial number change...I have my fingers crossed that the kit is correct. I do not have access to a lathe, so that would be an extra expense, if needed. Again, fingers crossed that I do not. I am not sure what you meant by virgin...I uploaded 2 pics if this helps Identify. Unless someone comes along and says the Hercules really suck, I think I will go the extra couple bucks (like $10) for the Hercules, since they were recommended. Then again, I could save a couple of bucks for a six pack if I go with the ebay kit the kit that you had no issues with. I am glad I got good feedback regarding aftermarket kits as I can save over $100 there. As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
That gland doesn't look like it's ever been taken out. I would measure the outer seal best I could with calipers and try to measure the one in the kit. I will try to look at all the numbers I came across for possible changes. When you look the part up online and mouse over the part number I think it brings up the superseded numbers. You may not know till you have it apart. Order one of those 3/4 drive peg wrenches.
The seal kit on ebay is a Hercules kit. If you are looking for a gland wrench this is what I use. Replacement pins are available for it too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/WR-9260-AD...425918?hash=item2ed9d9cf7e:g:VJQAAOxyaTxRJScp
All the number changes I had are no longer even listed. The parts page that lists the 85802571 kit shows a gland nut part number of E7NN177AB which comes up as no longer made by CNH. When you mouse over the exclamation point beside the gland nut number it says it was superseded by 82862729 and that number isn't found when you search for it. https://partstore.agriculture.newho...entInc/parts-search.html#epc::mr65699ar593616 Messick's brings up the gland number but toggles back and forth on the other options I found that are also no longer avaiable. https://www.messicks.com/part/e7nn177ab/plate-base Maybe you will have the gland that the kit fits but both of mine had to be modified to install the outer seal. Fortunately I was working in a machine shop at the time and had access to a large lathe. If the outer seal looks different on yours see if a supplier can get you some measurements and photo of the contents of a 84209920 kit to see if it will work. I can give you some tips on the rebuild. You will need the peg wrench Tinkerer linked to and a 3/4 pull handle and probably a pipe to put on the pull handle to get the gland nut loose. The yellow seal on the piston is very stiff. Soak the new one in hot water to get it on then compress it with a large hose clamp while it cools. The groove in the clear buffer seal faces inwards.
The best money you will ever spend for tools if you are going to do your own cylinders. A lot of vendors on eBay sell them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3Pcs-HYDRA...829355?hash=item521af8c56b:g:ul4AAOSwndBcrvOM
Thanks Tinkerer! I could have used one of these the other day when I built my steering cylinder. That link you listed was China source though. Found it stateside for a few bucks more. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3x-3Size-H...015295?hash=item5d9920b1ff:g:Fk0AAOSwUORd-HKj
Ok, so a lot of looking and buying going on here. Dirty-Hoe said that Hercules are good, so I was about to pull the trigger on them @ $10 more than the ebay parts. Then Tinkerer stopped by and said the ones on ebay are Hercules. I did some looking, and found that some are, and some are not stated as Hercules. I purchased the Hercules on ebay. Thanks Tinkerer...now I can have the Hercules, and the six pack of beer with the $10 savings . I was able to almost purchase the 3/4" breaker bar with the savings over New Holland parts. I also purchased the adjustable gland nut wrench. I spent the extra money to purchase the OTC brand. I did this because I used to use this tool all the time so I felt comfortable with this brand, and it is USA made. When I thought I was going to purchase the B95 that I mentioned in previous posts I found a youtuber that had a B95 and did his own repairs. His channel is Digginok. He has done a couple of videos of cylinder rebuilds. This is where I was first introduced to the cylinder seal tools that Tinkerer recommended. In the video, he said that these were the best hydraulic tool he has ever purchased. So, after tinkerer recommended them, I followed the link provided. As NH575E pointed out these were in china. I then searched for a vendor that had USA supply as I didn't want to wait the additional month to month and a half. Long story short, they are on the way. Back when I was building cylinders, we didn't have them, we just used a pick set to get the seals in and out. NH575E, thanks for taking the time to research the the possible seal problems. I would say with much certanty that the cylinder has never been apart with only ~720 hours on it. The previous owner did tell me that he only had one cylinder rebuilt. Also, thanks for the pointers on the actual rebuild. I still have one question: Does anyone know what size socket is required to remove the bolt that holds the piston head in place? Being at my place in PA, I do not have access to my tools that are in NJ, so I probably do not have the correct socket here. I would love to order it prior to taking the cylinder apart. (I am riding out the corona virus in the woods in PA) So, thanks a million for the info and guidance!! https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/3-4-drive-flex-36-long-xxl-sk-breaker-bar.html https://www.cpooutlets.com/otc-tools-and-equipment-1266-adjustable-gland-nut-wrench/otcn1266.html
Whenever I post a link to anything, it is a suggestion only. Hopefully the user of that link does their own research and verify my info is correct. On ebay you must read the vendors description carefully and research their information. That set of tools you bought is an example. The vendor, Shenkenuo lead me to this information about them---> Shenkenuo is trusted by more than two thousand eBay shoppers who have rated the seller at a 97.9% positive overall score. Shenkenuo is based in China and have been selling on eBay since 2016. They are most likely warehousing their products in the US for quicker delivery, but are sourcing it from China. That is how they get by with a somewhat misleading eBay description.
Sorry I don't recall the socket size for the piston bolt. Here is a photo I took of the parts and the kit contents.
Tinkerer, Trust me, I am grateful for your feedback! No doubt, they are importing them! I figure it is the exact same tool. I just wanted it faster. NH575E, Thanks once again! My fingers are crossed that all the parts match up. Most importantly the outer seal! I honestly dont think the wear ring is that worn in ~720 hours. The darn thing is just leaking externally. If anyone else knows what size socket the bolt takes, please chime in. It would be greatly appreciated!
I've got my fingers crossed that your gland is compatible with the 85802571 kit. I went out and tried to get a good approximate measurement of the outside diameter on the seal that came in the 85802571 kit. Mine measures about 2.825" meaning it must have been about 2.775" before I modified it. 2.775" would hit near the center of one side if the other side was lined up with the edge so it's a big enough difference you should be able to see with a caliper. If the seal in your gland measures near the 2.825" you should be golden.
I just remembered I had to go buy a socket for something I was doing. I can't remember if it was to remove the piston bolt on this backhoe stabilizer or to get a steering rack apart for my SIL. At any rate I bought a 1-5/8" 3/4" drive socket from O' Reilly Auto Parts. Check to see if you local auto parts store has stock on 3/4" drive sockets and you may be able to get what you need there when you get it apart.
Thanks a million NH575E! I went online, and found the 1 5/8" socket at a advance auto parts store. As far as the seal goes, I only have one of those crappy vernier calipers here (a good dial caliper at my NJ house). Using the tool I have, it is the 2.775 size. I am not going to get crazy yet. I will see what is in the kit I get. Meanwhile, I will also look for a local machine shop. The gland nut tool already came today. The pin seems a little small. Was your tool loose in the pin holes? I looked for larger pins to replace the stock pins, but dont see any.
The caliper I used is a $15 thing from Harbor Freight. I haven't used my store bought tool yet. I made the pin wrench I used when I rebuilt mine. My holes were egged a little and even though I made pins that were an exact fit it would try to slip out. Make sure and tape some cardboard around the shaft to protect it. If I were you I would call a supplier to see if you can get some measurements and photo of the contents of a 84209920 kit to see if it will work. I wouldn't modify my gland if I could find a proper kit. I wish I were better at navigating the parts manual. I bet the dealer has notes in their system that define things better than the online version does.
How much would it cost to just have a shop put your new seals in if you took the cylinder to them? Unless you're doing a bunch of cylinders, which I think is unlikely for awhile, you're spending more money on tools than it would cost to just have it done by a shop. A stabilizer cylinder is the easiest to remove.
Welder Dave, I dont have a problem buying the tools. I currently have 3 tractors with hydraulic cylinders on them. Also, I do not know of reputable places near the tractor. I do not live there usually...I am just now because of the Corona virus. Thanks for the reply.
Took some measurements on my store bought gland nut wrench and the holes of the gland nut. My wrench has pins with a small and large end. The small end is .265" dia. The large is .328" dia. The center that goes in the wrench body is .428" dia. The gland nut holes measure .468" dia. I was able to loosen the pins and slide the small end out some so the center would engage the holes. Not a perfect solution but seems like it might grab better than the other way. Somebody that has actually used these wrenches can chime in if I'm wrong. I have seen photos of this type wrench with the small end pins pushed out from the body as I am describing. I took one of mine to a shop just to get them to loosen the gland nut I couldn't get loose. The shop had moved 60 miles from me so it was a 120 mile trip two times because they couldn't do it while I waited. They charged me $85 to take it apart. When I asked how they got it apart they said they used a large pipe wrench with a long pipe stuck on it and 3 guys pulling. I have since bought myself a couple of 3 ft pipe wrenches. Ironically I had had the gland out of this cylinder before and couldn't loosen it after I had put it back together. To top it off there was nothing wrong inside the cylinder and my slow motion problem turned out to be something had come out of the operating valve and stuck in one of the inlets. Whatever that was is not needed because I just removed it and cured the problem. This was after I bought and replaced both of the check valve assemblies on top of the cylinders. When I put it together the last time I coated the gland nut threads with anti seize compound. Sometimes it just costs money to learn.
NH575E, I am going to wait for the kit, then check the seal. If there is a problem I will check into it before I open the cylinder. Supposed to rain here most of the week anyhow so no real loss in time. Thanks!
NH575E, Good thinking! I just measured my pins and the center(part in the tool) is like 7/16" (.438"). God I wish I had my micrometer and dial caliper here. I am thinking I could order some 7/16" dowels, lock them in the middle. .468" is close enough to work much better than the .328" pins. Amazon has 4 dowels for $9.00 delivered. To me, this is worth a try. If I had a lathe, I would make a pin insert that was exactly correct.
I would advise you to not buy that 36 inch breaker bar for no more use than you have. A 24 inch pipe wrench from Harbor freight (bout$20.00) or less) with a 6 foot pipe on the handle will serve you well.
24 in will not open wide enough
That would be a darn big bolt. I was referring to use it on the socket skirt to remove and replace the rod bolt or nut. I have twisted off 3/4 breaker bar swivels as if they were made out of butter.
sorry, was thinking gland nut as mention before,, rachetts are stronger than breaker bars, try harbour frieght china made
Ratchets stronger than breaker bars, that's a new one to me. A pipe wrench on an impact socket (softer than chrome socket) could work for removing the piston nut. There's video's online of guys using pipe wrenches to remove the piston nut/bolt and then reusing it after it's all torn up from the pipe wrench. Using a pipe wrench on a gland nut any damage is on the outside so not as critical. Some of the farm stores sell up to 48" pipe wrenches. I bought a used Ridgid 48" pipe wrench for $100 as I wasn't sure how much force I needed to get the gland nuts loose. Used the skid steer on the 1st one and realized 2 guys pulling on the wrench was enough to loosen the other one. Took the cylinder rods in and was charged an hour labor each to change the seals. Figuring they'll be good for my lifetime saved me from buying more tools and messing around with them.
I purchased the 3/4" breaker bar to use on the gland nut tool. I purchased the longer one because, being SK (USA made), I would think the joint would be engineered for the high torque that will be generated by 36" of handle. Hopefully I will not need a pipe on it with this much handle. I will definitely use a ball peen hammer on the tube to make it easier. As for the nut, I will prolly crack it loose with the breaker bar then zip it off with an impact gun. Then snug it with the gun, and torque it with the breaker bar. BTW, the equivalent breaker bar at harbor freight was $90. My price on the SK brand was $130 plus shipping. To me it was worth a couple extra bucks. I do have a rigid 48" pipe wrench, if I must use it, but I really do not want to make a mess of the parts or the socket. Thanks for all the replies...it is good food for thought!
The rod bolts on my Cat specify 800 ft./lbs. and will take more than that to loosen them. Loctite may have been used as well. I think you might need a bit more than the 36" handle to get them loose but you might be able to jump on the breaker bar.
My odds are 10 to 1 he will be buying a pipe wrench after the breaker bar lives up to it's name.
ratchets are stronger than beaker bars if you'd all use your tools youd know that
He says he has a 48" pipe wrench. I've stripped a couple ratchets and have broke breaker bars. I broke a pipe wrench too pushing on it with a loader. If you're going to use a snipe have at least 3/4" drive and preferably 1" drive. Anything will break with enough torque on it.
My 3/4 ratchet after a swing swing cylinder rod bolt attempt. My trusty old 24 inch pipe wrench with a 7 foot cheater did the job.
Nothing wrong with a Hercules kit They sell top brands, as good or bettter than what youd get from cnh
Tinkerer, I already have a rigid 48" pipe wrench to use if necessary..I really do not want to use it on the gland and make a mess, so I am hoping the breaker bar does not break on me mikebramel, Thanks for the feedback on the Hercules seal kit. That is the kit I purchased.
Agreed with you Swetz ! NEVER EVER USE A PIPE WRENCH ON A GLAND !! I never have and never will. Many years ago I took a cylinder to a supposedly professional hydraulic shop. The SOB's used a pipe wrench on the gland and it looked like crap, it was so badly chewed up. I was soooo pi##ed I bought a used cylinder and replaced it. I have cut off grade 8 bolts and used them for pins in my homemade gland wrenches. The gland pin holes can be drilled for a larger pins if the holes are damaged.
I respectfully disagree on this one. If you are buying quality tools - the breaker bar is Much stronger than a ratchet. Mechanic then Tool and Die Maker 40 years.
Tinkerer, Good point about the bolts...hopefully I will not need to drill them larger. Thanks.
I forgot to mention that the adjustable gland wrench pin holes can be drilled to bigger size. I haven't needed to do that yet.
A chain wrench would work on gland nuts but they are expensive. I don't know if you can rent them or not.