Hey All, I found a New Holland 675E that is available kind of locally. It has the following: Enclosed cab Heat and Air Condition, Radio 4x4 extend-a-hoe Front Loading Bucket 78" with cutting edge Rear digging bucket 24" Low hours (approximately 700) Tires in fair condition 2 New Batteries Does anyone have any things that I should be looking for (known weakness) on this model? I will of course give it the once over, but if there is a common problem, I would like to hear about it. I have spoken to the owner that told me that his friend purchased it brand new in 2000, and then passed away within 6 month of the purchase. So, the took it over, and never really used it. It has been stored indoors and only used on an occasional job and to remove snow. He now has it outside because he has lost his storage place, and doesnt use so he wants to sell it. He is asking 25k or best offer.
Sorry about the picture doubles in the last post...dont know what happened
Looks pretty good and again very similar to mine, but I don't know what the differences would be... Looks like the same design engine covers that are bad but to be expected. My boom lock is flipped around the other way (engagement teeth point down), don't know if it matters or what is right. Looks pretty good and it hours are right and things feel tight seems like a steal! I've heard A/C never works...
Aighead, Thanks for the response. The A/C prolly isnt a big deal for me in north east PA..The heat is though
I don't think you could find a better used machine for 3 times the price. Will it have some quirks, maybe but it's not even broken in yet. The tires are way better than fair. What's a new machine, over 100K?
Welder Dave, Yes, the new machines are very spendy today, and have a gang of electronics that I dont want. I cant wait to see this in person! I am going to try for tomorrow, even though it is supposed to rain..I really do not like to lay under vehicles in the rain, but did it for many years...Just havent done it lately.
Uh... I'm not convinced my heat works either. It makes a blowing noise but "heat" is questionable.
If you don't buy it, I'd sure like to know where it is.
Looks like a good machine. About the only thing I can see in the pictures is the dipper cylinder hose is either chewed up in the middle, or it has a protective sleeve that is damaged. Either way, simple fix if needed. The 675 hoe is longer/higher than other machines you have been looking at. Make sure it fits if you are storing in building or transporting to avoid any accidental low-bridge incidents.
If that machine gets advertised it will likely sell to the 1st person who looks at it. Not even sure if I'd try to haggle on price. Might offer 24K on the spot but if he says no, 25K is a steal! I think it has a lot closer ties to the Ford TLB's than the newer New Holland TLB's. Would have to be something major like a bad engine knock or the trans. doesn't work to have any second thoughts about it.
fpgm04, Thanks for the heads-up on the hose. Will look into it. Also thanks for the height info. I do not intend to move it after delivery. The tractor will help me prepare a pad for a pole barn if I get it (the tractor...def. getting the pole barn) . The pole barn will have 14' high doors, so I should be ok. Welder Dave, I am going to set up an inspection for today...hopefully it all works out, and it really is what he says it is!
It seems almost too good to be true. Be sure to have a bill of sale prepared with the machine's serial number on it and both you and the seller sign it.
Have free of all liens and encumbrances on the bill of sale.
Tinkerer, I just finished printing it up. Welder Dave, Good suggestion...will do.
So, I just talked to the guy...He told me it is a power shift, not a power shuttle. I have heard bad things about the power shift (kinda an auto trans). Is something that should change my mind?
Only if it doesn't work. Get an operators manual (maybe comes with machine), don't abuse it and it will give you thousands of hours of service.
Welder Dave, Trust me, if I purchase this machine I will have the operators manual as well as the repair manual. I purchased them for the b95 that I was looking at. Was cheap and I learned a lot before going to look at the machine. If I had more time I would do the same for this machine. As far as abuse, that aint happening! I do not need to make a living with this thing. I will also keep services up to date...I am a believer in Preventative Maintenance!
Hey Swetz, check that 14 feet before screaming into your pole barn too! I think mine is pretty close to that and if this one is taller, it may be taller...
Take it with you when you pay for it. Sounds to good to be true. EDIT: If you don't know the selling party call the serial number in to your local dealer before you pay for it. See if anything comes up. Might be a reason its been hid away for all these years. Or it might just be a sweet deal?
Should fit in a 14' high door. I don't think it's even close but can stretch the boom out if it is too high. I really doubt it though.
aighead, RichieSpecs says 11.32 FT. old-iron-habit, It is lagit. The guy showed me the papers from the original owner. Was paid for in full in 2004.
Ok All, Just got back from looking at it. Everything seems as the guy told me. He showed me the paper work from the original owner. He paid approximately $65k for it. Well the machine is tight as new...as expected. It is clean and no real rust on it. The boom lock works...it is hydraulic. Trans seemed good (still a bit gun shy on the power shift). The cab was clean inside. No latches broken. Fluids seemed good except brake fluid and hydraulic oil. The hydraulic oil was low because he just had a cylinder repacked and didn't have any more fluid to put in. So the cylinder repacked was the bucket cylinder. It seems, and I have never heard of this, that the cylinders did not leak until he started using it recently, after it was stored in the garage in the pictures. One of the outrigger cylinders is leaking as well. not real bad, but is wet. Oh, and the a/c doesn't work...what a surprise. Bottom line, I am in the process of buying it...if it all works out! The guy didn't want a down payment. He told me it was mine if I wanted it. He seems cool. He does want it gone ASAP though. Anybody on here know a good contact to call for equipment moving?
More Pics
Nice looking unit..looks identical to my 555e but newer..lol.
Looks great, good job being patient to find the right one! As far as equipment movers go, uship.com might work well for you. When I bought my backhoe from the East Coast, I had several competitive quotes to get it to Oklahoma that were all pretty decent. I ended up using a guy that the seller knew and it worked out fine, but I think any of the carriers that are on Uship will at least be vetted to some point, sort of like an uber driver. If it is just a short distance you need to move it, you can check craigslist or any local trucking company that hauls gravel will probably bring it to you for a reasonable rate.
How far away is it ? I know a couple of people that drove tractors home after buying them. One feller left the sellers place in the morning stayed all night in a motel that night and finally got home noon the next day.
For what it's worth, my father in law has a neighbor with probably 5 acres of almost urban land (like they are both about a mile outside a pretty bustling city) and he has a fair ton of money, and a really nice barn. I was asked to help feed the ducks this guy looks over and I think my FIL just wanted to show off what was in this guy's barn. Turned out to be a Case TLB (I think) that was probably almost 30 years old and had like 1200 hours on it. Just sitting, looking brand new off the shop floor, in his barn. It looks extremely well taken care of and quite literally like he'd only used it a few times. Good barn finds are out there! Edit- I typed before I'd seen the rest of the comments... Yay, Swetz, good for you man! Hopefully it all works out well for you. Also, only 11 and half feet tall? I could have sworn mine was right at 13' or higher...
The cylinders might stop weeping after it's used a bit and the oil warms up.
Thanks, Toxic! JBrady, Thanks. I did book with uship. I used them once before, but was hoping someone would pipe up and I could give one of the community the work. No one did, and I am on a time constraint, so I booked uship. A little more than I wanted to spend, but the shipper agreed to doing it on friday with little notice so it was worth it. Tinkerer, If I were to drive it, I would be retired before I got there, and I am not retiring for 3+ years It is about 130 miles. Thanks aighead! I didnt measure it but that is what RichieSpecs said. They did say they were going to bring a lo-boy trailer, so it should be fine. Fingers are still crossed that all goes well!! I bought the manuals today. Once it is delivered, I will get all the part numbers for the filters. I want to change all of the fluids and filters prior to using it. Then, hopefully, I will work it so that I get an area cleared for my pole barn. I hate having it outside until then...is just so nice and clean (except for where it was greased, which made me happy to see it was well greased)...even the under side is like new!
Grease is a good thing. What happened to the original manual(s) that came with the machine?
Welder Dave, I asked him about it and he didnt get it from the original owner...I am guessing since the guy died, no one knew where it was. I also purchased the repair manual in addition to the operator's manual
Hey Swetz.... Nice find!! What county you building in??
I don't know anything about the power shift but I would research that topic before purchasing. Make sure and operate it to temperature to see if it continues to work as it should. Trust ME! You will want the AC to work on a cab tractor. Cabs are like a glass oven. Even when it's cold out I end up switching from heat to AC pretty quick if the sun is shining. I will double the suggestion to call the serial number in to a dealer to make sure it doesn't have any flags on it. It sounds right cheap for the description but it is a 20 year old machine and some parts may be hard to find..
It has 700 hours on it!
T-town, Wayne county...Lake Ariel...U? NH575E, I have been looking around for info on the trans. I see some people bashing them on some other brands, but not a lot on NH. Man this trans changes the front dash and the control center a lot...All digital vs analog. Fingers crossed that parts stay available. I have been looking up a bunch of parts and have not come up with any that say not being made. Most just say out of stock and 3 or 4 days to order.
My equipment dates back as far as 1940. The only part I can't find are engine/transmission/radiator mounts for a 1976 Chevy truck.
Just realized you already bought it before I posted. I guess I read through page one and thought it was still being considered. Looks like you found yourself a good machine for a good price. CONGRATS! My machine measures 12-1/2 feet with the boom locked but it's not the extendahoe. You could always unlock it and park with the heel of the bucket on the ground if you needed more but that will extend it some. Maybe the AC won't need much to get it working. Could just need a recharge. My machine arrived with the compressor missing and the wiring modified. I got lucky and found a new control panel on eBay and just installed a generic Sanyo compressor. All my stock wiring turned out to be okay. They had just unplugged and bypassed it. The expansion valve was a PITA to change. It's right over the rear axle and you have about 6 to 9 inches of space to work in. I had to replace all the hoses on mine also. Those cheap AC leak detectors on eBay actually work better than my old professional unit I had that failed. I have found several NOS parts by entering the part number on eBay.
Swetz, If helps make you feel better about powershift transmissions. They have a long track record of being on TLBs. They are actually the high-end transmission option as they provide some nice features. As with adding any gizmo, the more complexity does open the door for more opportunity for something to break, but I personally would not be scared of a powershift on a machine with this pedigree. If it was a high hour machine with unknown maintenance and with signs of a hard life, that could be of concern. In this case, it appears you are getting a machine, that with proper upkeep and maintenance, should last you a very very long time. As for parts, I would suspect that the New Holland powershift of that era would share many parts with an European Case M series powershift. As you noted though, the New Holland instrument cluster is probably unique. As for transport, it appears you have everything set. However if that falls through, I think you need to reconsider your retirement mathematics. 130 miles, with a backhoe with top speed of ~24 MPH is roughly 6 hours transport time. Now the impact to your back/body driving a vehicle with no suspension other than what is in the seat and tires, is something to be concerned about! Which actually brings up a point, are those 20+ year old tires on that machine? Not that those would not work for you, but in my experience tires tend to get hard and want to develop cracks over time. Just something to keep an eye on.
Machine was stored inside and no signs of weather cracking I can see in the pics. which is good. Lots of tractors with tires 20, 30 or more years old still going strong.
Phew! 6 hours on the road would be rough. I just drove mine about 2 miles down and back a country road last weekend and the bouncing got scary, I can't imagine 130 miles of it!
Swetz... I'm presently a bit further west... Wyoming Co. but, I am(have been) prepping a building site in Luzerne... Best of luck with the machine....
Guys, I was only kidding about retiring prior to getting there... In all seriousness, It is all highway and it would not be feasible. In addition, I really do not want to run this machine until I change ALL of the fluids, and ALL of the filters. I feel like they may have been in there a long time I can see some filters were changed, but some look original. aighead, are you using NH filters and oil or are you using aftermarket? T-town, Thanks. Not that far...how much property on the new site?
Swetz, I'd rather not discuss preventive maintenance . I'm ashamed that I haven't had the patience to not use the machine and change all that junk out. Nor have I even gone shopping for any of it. I'm not a good machine owner but knowing that may encourage me to be a better machine owner. Let me know if you find good parts source, I'm struggling to find any local spots.
Congratulations on your new hoe. Looks like you got a bargain for the condition of what it appears to be. I know the excitement. I just bought a JD 310 SE about 2 weeks ago and am in the middle of changing out all the fluids and filters. I went with aftermarket Wix filters. For what it's worth Wix is able to cross-over most OE filter numbers on their website. I got trans filter, hydraulic filter, fuel filter, oil filter, hyd tank breather, and primary and secondary air filters. Here's my cost comparison on just Wix filters. OReillys would've been $368 Amazon Prime would've been $248 RockAuto (shipping included from one location) was $209 Needless to say, if you go non OE route, try RockAuto unless someone has an even cheaper filter supplier.
We have a 20+ parcel that was "family" land..... wouldn't be right to sell it.. and the house we raised the kids in won't cut it for 'aging in place'...so the plan is to begin on the 'ranch' nest spring. Bit more prep to do before then. ...... the question of parcel size reminded me of a 'newfy' joke.( yes, Atlantic Canada)... A Texan and newfy were talkin and the Texan asked the newfy 'how big is your spread?"... and the newfy said 'buddy I got about 10 acres......." " how big is your place" asked the newfy..... Well partner... let me put it to you this way.. If I get up in the morning and drive all day.... I wouldn't make it to the other side...... "Buy JeeZ.... said the newfy... I had a truck like that once too !! Now that that's out the way..... I second the motion on the wix stuff... but I buy the napa gold. Just did the complete change out ( filters oil) and have some more involved maint. issues to tackle. Swing tower to boom pins and bushings.... and some seals for the swing cylinders. on an old mid 80's JD Hoes keep your hands dirty.... enjoy!
boone, I wouldn't have thought to try Rock Auto, thanks for the suggestion!
aighead, You need to get after the maintenance!!! that is what keeps them going to bail you out year after year!! boone, Good luck with the new machine...I looked at several of the exact machine for sale, but around here they wanted big $ with high hours. No computer on the engine was one of my favorite parts! Thanks for the well wishes! As far as the filters, I am going to go aftermarket as much as possible. Wix has a real nice site for cross reference. I am posting the link below aighead. All you need to do is get the NH number and plug it in and bam, you have a list. I have recently found a good place for filters. The more you buy the cheaper they get. I am only going to purchase 1 of each for the new tractor at this point, but if they work out, I will buy quantity. I will post a link below. I am not a fan of rock auto. The reason being that I looked up parts for my wife's excursion. Purchased them (motorcraft) and they were not correct. They charged me to return them. So, I avoid them as I feel that was not right. I usually find the same or better price if I look around. That said, I do like that they sell good quality parts (motorcraft, delco, etc.) https://wixfilters.com/lookup/filterlookup.aspx https://www.fleetfilter.com/ T-town, LOL
An example of the filters I priced for the new machine.
I know, I'm not proud! It's not a good thing but I'm pretty intimidated by this machine and while I know it's not right I'm kind of freaked out to dig into it. Thanks for the links, I'll check them out!
I usually put the NH filter or part number in eBay search. Most times I find a decent price on WIX or Baldwin and go with it. For oil the Travelers Premium says it's compatible with NH 134 D .
Swetz, As you indicate you are going to change all oils (I certainly agree with that for a new-to-you purchase), I would recommend OEM oil, not aftermarket. Particularly on the powershift transmission, which given your light usage plans, will likely not be changed again until long after your future retirement. You should also check with the New Holland dealer to insure there is no extra additives required for your machine. If so, the only place you are going to get that, is at the dealer. I always take a step back and ask who is guaranteeing that the oil is going to meet OEM standards and will perform the same? (the company selling the oil or New Holland?) Also has the aftermarket oil company performed countless hours of validation on my machine type to insure it works as intended without odd shifting, noises, part wear, cold weather operation, hot weather operation, etc? On a piece of equipment I plan on keeping and using for years, the difference in price is not worth it to me. Again, just for your consideration. Good luck with what appears to be a very nice machine!
fpgm04, Thanks for the response! As far as the power shift oil, the manual says to use mercon or dexronIII. I was thinking that I would upgrade to merconV as that is full synthetic oil. I agree with the oils. They are so expensive at the dealer though. In the long run, I guess it pays. I have read many debate threads on several tractor forums about the oil, and I see both sides of the argument. I have even seen that guys swear by Kubota synthetic hydraulic oil in non-kubota machines...I think the New Holland oil will be fine. As far as filters, most are available aftermarket. Wix is a reputable company so I am ok with there filters. There are a couple filters that are dealer only, I will be getting them ordered up as well.
Swetz, I've been looking for a couple of years off and on. Found nothing but old machines or high hour new machines for a premium. This machine wasn't listed nor posted for sale. I heard word of mouth that the owner might sell it and so I stopped in one Saturday and chatted with the owner's wife. I think she was ready for it to go. The seller was the original owner and he used it on the side digging footings. It only has 3900 hours on it and they priced it at $12k but I got it for $10k. The bent stabilizer rod was a known problem. Everything else appears to be in decent shape. Thanks for the link on fleet filter. Looks like simliar prices to RockAuto. Yeah, one has to watch RockAuto. They get you on shipping if they ship from different locations. But from what little I've ordered from them I've had good luck.
If someone floats it for you, make sure the windows are secure. they might have updated the latches since our 675s, but they have a nasty habit of opening in the wind, and slamming back and taking out it and the window behind it. Our LB110 had the old style locks but our 95 was updated. one of our own float drivers went as far as wrapping a strap around the entire cab.
If the manual says mercon dexron for the transmission, that's a little different. We were assuming it was a new holland only fluid. I think I'd look into it a lot more before filling with a synthetic fluid, maybe just get a name brand fluid to that spec. Diesel motor oil is diesel motor oil, rotella or whatever you run is fine. No need to get hydraulic oil from the dealer either, Mobil is reasonable, and easy to get around here. Don't use 303, or anything that says "recomended for", stick with the "Majors" as somebody here says, the major oil companies.
In alignment with Delmer regarding using full synthetic, I would suggest it would be well worth the time to make a phone call to your New Holland dealer, or better yet visit them in person, and ask their experience on synthetics in that vintage of powershift transmission before you invest your money. Keep in mind the machine and manuals were developed 20+ years ago, and the OEM validation was done using oil of that era (likely not full synthetic). By no means am I am saying full synthetic would not work, in fact it might actually work better in cold/hot conditions, however it could also introduce chemistry to a system which was never designed or validated for that type of oil. I also agree that Major oil brands can reduce risk. As I am certainly not a chemist or oil expert, just someone who likes to avoid problems, please take my comments for what they might be worth.
All dealers are not created equal. I went to the closest dealer to me when I got my 575E for a stabilizer kit and oil. The guy sold me 303 hydraulic fluid which I didn't question until I was driving by TS. I decided to look at the label and saw it was for older tractors so I stopped in TS and got the oil that was at least claimed to be spec for my tractor. That is all I have run since. My tractor is stored outside so the oil gets changed a couple times a year. 25 gallon oil changes are hard enough to swallow at $42 per 5gal bucket. For my engine I use a Motorcraft FL-1A and Motorcraft 15W40 synthetic blend diesel oil. Everything else gets 134D spec oil on mine. If the transmission calls for Dexron III I would be hesitant to put Mercon V in it without research. That said Mercon V is good transmission fluid. My F150 uses it and I didn't change it till 100K. It's at 180K now and the oil is still clear and red. Trans shift like the day I got it.
Delmar, fpgm04. NH575E, I am attaching the page from my manual. It does show Dexron II and Mercon. I have always been told that trans oils are backwards compatible in cars, in fact my 2003 Ford had a TSB stating that you should upgrade to Mercon V from the Mercon. I will talk to the dealer and see what he says. If it must remain Dexron II or Mercon, Walmart sells gallons that are acceptable for both specs. I will probably just get them. If it is deemed ok to upgrade I will be doing so. I am pasting an article from ford below that shows their stance...I do understand that this is Ford not New Holland. With all this talk on the power shift trans, can anyone tell me who makes this unit? To me, that is where I should be asking the question about the proper fluid. https://www.aftermarketnews.com/ford-announces-new-replacement-specs-for-mercon-atf
So I am happy to announce that I am a proud owner of a 2001 New Holland 675E!! The machine was towed without incident. If anyone in the New Jersey area is looking to move a piece of equipment, please pm me for some names. It cost me ~$1085 to ship the tractor (~120 miles). I used Uship. It turns out that Uship took $285 out of the total. The shipper that I used took another ~$200, and the rest went to the guy that actually did the work. Some racket! Anyhow, I have the actual shippers contact info, and will use it if I need anything to be moved in the future...live and learn! I am sure that if I was patent tht someone would have bid lower on Uship. However, I wanted this thing moved on a specific day at a specific time, and the shipper complied. Most other shippers would give a 7 day pickup window, and of course no specified time. Additionally, they wanted 2 days to do the actual move, a 2 hour 45 min drive. So, yes I prolly could have saved, but it was moved to fit my need and I guess that is worth something...it wont be long till I forget about the cost of the move and start tractoring Thank you all for you support in my decision...I am feeling real good about it! As a side note...I cannot believe that a 2020 Ram 3500 is rated to tow 35k# My 2006 is half the rating!
It is a really clean looking machine. One thing I notice that is different than all 4 of our NewHollands is the rod to keep your bucket level is bent. all ours run strait with the boom. sometimes the linkage from in front of the windshield down to the valve under the cab can jam. without that rod, if you curl your bucket back full, and lift it to full height, your bucket will spill all over your hood
Cuttin edge, Yes, I noticed that as well, and, the bucket does not stay level. One of the things that will have to be worked on. The bolt-on cutting edge is also broken off on the right side. Not sure how that happened but I will replace it ASAP. Thanks for the post!
Congratulations on the safe arrival of your TLB ! In reply to your question on transmission, your taxing my memory but seem to recall they were Dana Powershift transmissions used in that era. There is typically a metal serial number tag on the lower part of the transmission that should help, if it is not painted over. Please understand, I think full synthetic oil will likely work, however I also think it is worth a phone call to a New Holland dealer to make sure they have no horror stories with using full synthetic oil in a machine with your transmission before buying 15+ gallons of oil.
Thanks, fpgm04. I am going to the dealer in person to get parts, so will discuss then. I will be getting under the tractor today. I will check for tags on everything and take pictures for future reference. I want to capture all of the filter part numbers that are on the machine. They all seem to be OEM New Holland so it will be easy to get a list together. The NH site has multiple parts listed and they are listed as non-emission and emission. I need to figure out which I have, although I have a hunch being 2001, it is non-emission I do agree with you about getting the correct oil...Although synthetic is better in theory, if it breaks down the glue that bonds the frictions on the clutches, it isn't that good after all...Said another way, I dont want to create more problems while servicing a perfectly good tractor.
Yeah that rod is bent. Even close to the windshield you can see the insert bent as well. Chances are the linkage from there down and under the cab will have to cleaned and greased. You might have to get a tube made up as I can see that bending again now that it has been bent already
That's exactly what I was thinking of with the fluid too, there's no need to spend extra money for synthetic if the dino is what you should be running. It might even pay to find a ford/new hollland or dana guy that can give you a better answer than the receptionist at the local dealer, cause that's who you'll get when you call, not the one guy there that may have a definitive answer. Or even a heavy duty transmission rebuilder.
Wow! They hosed you on the move. I'd use name brand fluid in the transmission just for piece of mind. Your machine is basically a continuation of a Ford TLB. You said the link you posted is from Ford but lists NH oils which I believe have the same numbers as the original Ford oil. Ford had a long history and made a very good TLB. New Holland had no history in TLB's so it made sense to continue to show ties to Ford. Just like IH kept the Hough name for years, brand name recognition goes a long way. Usually in a good way but there are some brands you know to stay away from.
Yay! Congratulations Swetz! It's been a fun trek to read with you, hopefully you love it!
cuttin edge, The pivot under the cab seems to be where it is bound. After I finish with all the fluids, filters, and the cutting edge for the front loader, I will dive into this. I may just take the bent parts off for now, so no more damage happens. It is really not a big deal to just remake the tube and rod parts, once the linkage is freed up. I actually made them for my 445A. Delmar & Welder Dave, I ordered 5 gallons of plane old mercon/dexron for the trans. It is what they specified for the machine in the first place, so it must be good enough. And, I do not want to create problems. Welder Dave, Yes, my sphincter was perforated in the move, but I wanted it in a very specific timeline which included the date and time, and they complied. I now have the number if I want low cost moves in the future. aighead, thanks for the well wishes. I have a question for you regarding your tractor...do you have an electric fuel pump? If so, when you change the fuel filter, do you bleed anything? I am reading the manual and it says that models with the electric pump are self bleeding and I just want to be sure that this is correct. I dont want to get into a situation where it looses prime.
There is only one company in a 30 mile radius where I live that professionally moves equipment. There are hundreds of small operators able to move equipment. Most do it at their convenience. I have close friends in the business of excavation. They treat me like family. They move my equipment when they have ALL their other chores done. I was buying a backhoe from a seller I did not trust!!!!!! I was on my way out of state hours later. I called, explained my situation, Asked if they could move it that day. I explained I had not paid for it, wouldn't pay until I was confident the truck was coming. I would pass on the purchase if they couldn't. I asked for an hour's notice before moving the machine. The driver called me on cell phone 2 hours later. He was PISSED, "Where to Hell are you?" He was waiting! I hadn't paid, had a 45 minute drive to get there. By the time I passed paper with the seller, he had wrapped chains around the chrome of my hydraulic cylinders. I explained I'd willingly pay for time to rearrange chains, he was NOT moving that way. He was one of those angry people. Lots of brief snotty exchanges. We got to my home, I unchained, I moved the tractor out of his way (100 feet) He came galloping after me screaming "You haven't paid!" He was at my home, I was going to outrun him on a backhoe? Ultimately I paid $250. for a 30 mile move. No complaints on price, I wish it were a less unpleasant experience.
I couldn't tell you Swetz, I haven't dug in that far.
I've had two Case 580K With each I go through and replace all filters & fluids. I can't say what is in there, or when it was changed. The first 580K, I used oil from Tractor Supply. It said on the bucket it met the standards of Case TCH fluid. I believe it lubricated acceptably, but the wet brakes sounded like gear grinding! First trip down BOROUGH HILL DANBY VT, the employees at the town garage swore I ground gears all the way down the hill. Case TCH fluid is no longer available. My Case dealer now assures me Hy Tran is better. I first knew Hy Tran as a child when my local IH dealer used it. In those days it was an International Harvester product. I've read up on Hy Tran recently. It is a different product than it was in 1970. Each change had been analysed extensively. It is now a very much better product than in 1970. There are friction modifiers to control the gear grinding sound made in the wet breaks, and most significantly, emulsifiers to control contamination from water. Water is the most destructive contaminant in gear oil. I'm ignorant of all I need to know about oil. I defer to people who do know. Nobody selling cheap oil will warranty all the properties of their oil will measure up. Only the 50% more costly oil suppliers will make that commitment.
Congrats on the new machine. It is really clean looking. I got mine moved 650 miles for $1200 but the driver kept putting it off for better loads. It took almost two months to get a machine I had already transferred funds for. To say I was getting a little antsy would be an understatement. Besides the wait the shipper did a good job. I bought mine off eBay and the seller lied about everything I asked. I got it cheap enough I still came out okay but it has been a work in progress the whole time. I have dug up a butt load of stumps with it though. Mine has the electric pump that doesn't seem to do much. I fought with a restriction from a rusty fuel tank and finally found the little clump of rust lodged in the banjo bolt that feeds into the water separator. To prime my system after having it apart I blew compressed air into the tank. That seemed to work fine and the tractor would start right up afterwards. I ended up putting a small engine fuel filter in the line that goes to the water separator. That little filter has clogged twice since the original cleaning and saved me from clogging the lines and big filter again. I'd rather spend $5 and 5 minutes replacing that small add on filter than cleaning out all the lines and hoses again.
NH575E, Thanks sooo much for answering this question. Additionally, my tractor already has that filter installed just as you have done. I was wondering about it because it is not in the new holland look up. The one I purchased is a baldwin, and should be delivered today. I initially ordered the wrong main fuel filter. I didnt realize that there are two different factory fuel filters for this model...One if it is emissionized and the other if it is not. I am not sure what that means except for the fact that it has an electric fuel pump instead of the mechanical fuel pump, and the fuel filter is very different. My manual doesnt show the electric fuel pump version. I can only figure the manual was written before the change. So, is there a bleeder that you open somewhere as you put air in the tank? Thanks again!
No I just blew in the tank and it filled the filter and lines. The system has a supply and return hose so I guess that allows it to self bleed. In theory the electric pump should do it but mine doesn't seem to. The injection pump actually does the job for running and if you crank on it long enough it will prime the system if you don't have any restrictions. I use a large rubber stopper with a hole in the center with a air blowing nozzle on a portable tank. You could probably just blow enough pressure by mouth as long as you rig up something to seal the fuel hole.
Cool, thanks for the clarification NH575E.
Hello All, Just a little update on the new to me tractor. Friday, on my way to my place in pa, I stopped by my favorite New Holland dealer, and left with almost $1000 in parts, plus I had USPS, UPS, and Fedex busy bringing filters and transmission fluid. So, I changed the engine oil and filter...looked real clean, and no evidence of water. I changed the hydraulic oil and filter. I also opened to access cover on the tank where the suction screen is located ($75 gasket... ) and all looked real well. I was concerned about moisture from the ~14 years of sitting (see pics of tank and filter). I was really happy to see that the filter was real clean, as well as was the inside of the tank. I also changed the trans fluid and filter. Once again I was very happy to see that the fluid looked like new, and only a small amount of dust stuck to the magnetic drain plug. I am hoping to change the oil in the axles and front hubs today. I want to grease it as well today. I also have the new fuel filters to install. The only setback I suffered was that I could not get the bolts out of the cutting edge. The only torch that I have at my PA property is a plumbers torch. I heated the nuts, and then when they were done laughing at me, I moved on to other tasks. I have an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel on it that I will bring back next time I am up. So, so far, all looks good. I am hoping to put this machine to work in the near future, although I do still need to deal with the bucket leveling system. I have been spraying the end of the pivot tube where I think it is bound with WD40, hoping it may loosen what ever has it locked up
sorry about the double pics again...I must remember not to double click!!
If you haven't already closed it back up you may want to unscrew the hydraulic tank screen and look inside. Mine had a yellow rubber disc lodged in the inlet tube that i had no idea where it came from. Member Toxic later asked me for dimensions for the removal tool I made and observed that the disc was part of the inside of the screen filter. Here is my rough drawing for the tool I made to unscrew it.
Congrats on your purchase and getting right to the servicing. If the cutting edge is not worn back to the original front edge yet, you probably have a ton of life left in that cutting edge for what you're going to do with it. I went back through the pictures you posted and didn't see a picture of the front edge, but if you post some we will be able to let you know if it needs to be changed or not, if it was used on asphalt a lot, there is a chance it is worn back to the original edge. If it still has about 3/4 to an inch in front of the original bucket edge you'll be fine for a while.
I've had two Case backhoes spread over 16 years. Bucket leveling system never worked on either. Gotta remember to level manually or rocks fall on the hood.
Not sure if the leveller is for tilting the bucket when lifting or for return to dig to level the cutting edge.
I've had 4 case backhoes and have never been able to adjust the return to dig on the loader. Can't remember the first one but the last 3 leveled out as you lifted them to avoid spilling on the hood.
That particular function on this back hoe keeps your bucket in the same position. without it, a full bucket will dump material all over the hood when raised to full height. you can do it yourself, but it is a handy option.
I took the anti-rollback linkage off of my 580sK, because I like to be able to roll the bucket back further to throw material away from the cutting edge when cleaning up a pile. My two previous ones were Fords, and left the factory without it, so I was used to not loading the hood.
The bucket level system is one of the few things that worked on my 575E without me having to do anything to it. Can't say I know exactly how it works but if I need to look at any linkages or provide pictures of working components let me know.
I can only speak about my experience with Case backhoes. The self leveling rod will be bent every time the hoist is raised to full height and the rod is out of adjustment. The rod serves two purposes. One is the self leveling feature the other is to prevent rolling the bucket too far back and spilling material on the hood of the tractor. That situation is extremely dangerous when loading broken concrete and large rocks. If the rod is adjusted correctly you cannot roll the bucket too far back with the hoist lever. Case also has a return to dig feature that I do not use.
I'd thought it might be hydraulic like the self leveling valve I had added to my skid steer. Well worth the extra $500 in my opinion. When you're busy loading trucks or something else with the bucket in the air it's nice not having to constantly watch the bucket angle. You can override it if you need to. A skid steer is really bad if material falls out the back of the bucket... it could kill you!
The rod attaches to a pivot point at the windshield, then down to another then under the cab to the bucket control valve. They get seize up if not greased. As far as return to dig or a bucket kickout, our LB95 has the little infrared sensor and rod like a loader.
NH 575, Thanks a million for the dimensions!! I was wondering about taking it out. Because it was so clean, I didnt stress over it too much. How thick was the steel you used? I did see the New Holland part number in the manual but was not able to find it at the dealer. This wrench will be a perfect job for my new plasma cutter. Tags, thanks for the post. The cutting edge is broken and a piece is missing. I will bring my cutoff wheel and make quick work of the bolts.
Welder Dave, The bucket leveling is mechanical driven by the linkage. cuttin edge, I have not really looked at it yet (where it goes under the cab) but I will when I get time. I hope that I can get the access to get under there and free it up. I have been spraying it daily thogh.
How big is your plasma cutter? that will zip those cutting edge nuts off
Just explaining to welder Dave what it does. I'm not asking where your's goes, I'm telling where it goes. We have 4 of those machines, and they will all do the same thing if not taken care of. Only thing different about your machine is the automatic trans
I greased the whole tractor today. I only had a couple of issues. The front, front axle trunnion would not take grease. I took out the zerk and used a drill to clean it out. I also sprayed it with wd40. I was able to get grease in after that. One of the zerks on the front loader was missing. Again, I used a drill to clean out the hole. I took a zerk from one of the outriggers, after I greased it. I was able to get grease in after a while. So, I need to get a zerk, and I should be good to go.
cuttin edge, it would for sure, but I do not have an outlet wired up yet at my house in PA. The cutter is a Hypertherm Powermax 65. I cant wait to get it hooked up.
Is the rod for return to dig or to tilt the bucket while lifting? If it's for keeping the bucket from rolling back to far it should be fixed.
That rod is for keeping the bucket from rolling too far back during high lifts..not a return to dig function..main job is when loading dump trucks..just watch it and adjust. Mine is disabled as well but you have to lift pretty high and have a full bucket before you need to tilt bucket forward
That's what I thought, a lot of loaders have true mechanical linkage that makes rolling the bucket back too far impossible. Depending on the situation, there could be a lot going on to remember to tilt the bucket while lifting.
That is exactly how older Case TLB's work. Pretty much fool proof. I think all TLB's should be mechanical and work like that. It could save someone from personal injury or even death. Especially if they have an open ROPS.
The original Case system used a hyd. cylinder from the boom to the lift tower to direct oil to level the bucket as you raised the boom. If you didn't know what it was for, made you wonder what it does. Machines like my track loader have linkage for the bucket cylinder connected to the boom pivot that prevents the bucket from going back too far. I think all skid steers should have some kind of leveller system. A smashed hood is one thing but a skid steer if will fall right on top of you. Farmers have also been killed by bales coming back on them because the bucket/forks rolled back too far.
Return to dig is an electric control for a hydraulic valve. I haven't seen one functional. Bucket level is a linkage system overriding the operator's choice on the loader valve. As the boom goes up, the bucket stays in position. I guess they didn't work well as I've seen several with missing linkage.
Some of the older ** loaders had what they called selective self-levelling. If you pulled the boom lift lever past full it would start rolling the bucket down. It worked pretty good once you got used to it.
1/4" should work fine.
Thanks to nh575 dimensions i made mine out of 1/4 but 1/8 might have been enough
NH575E, Thanks! I will make one up for the next time I take the cover off. Toxic, Thanks for the pic of the one you made. How tight was the filter?
Nh575..it was on pretty hard but got it witha bunch of hammer hits..in hind site i should ha e used the air chisle on the tool to loosen it
Cool, thanks Toxic!
Swetz, you may want to throw the measuring tape on the hydraulic cap space to make sure the tool can fit between the cap and the tank. I feel like 1/4" may be too thick... I could very well be wrong though.
aighead, The 1/4" is for the wrench that will remove the suction filter that is in the hydraulic tank. I have to tool for removing the cap...You are correct, the tank cap tool is much thinner than 1/4"...Thanks for the heads-up
Got it, looked like the same thing but I'm with you now.
Just an update on the 675E... Well, the grease zerks are definitely metric, which I figured they would be because every bolt I have encountered has been. I was lucky enough to pick up a couple at a hardware store that I pass on my way to my house in PA. Another trip to my dealer to get the hold-down for the top battery. He did not have it in stock but had it in 3 days. This tractor has the 2 battery option, which I was glad to see. However, I am not sure the previous owner knew bout the battery that is on the bottom, because it was much older, and completely different size. Anyhow, I replaced them both. I cleaned up the mounting plate and welded a new bolt in for the hold-down. I also made one new cable out of some #1 welding wire (really dont like this new lead free electrical solder...didn't seem to flow like the good ole lead). Also, while I had the front grille out I straightened the grill and painted it...looks new now. Next order of business was the fuel system. I changed the 2 fuel filters. The 3rd is a separator (I am not real sure about this device. The manual doesn't show any service. The parts site shows a filter in the center section. I am going to have to research this). I took the plug out of the bottom, but saw no water. I also removed the plug on the bottom of the fuel tank. The fuel looked clean, and no water was present. I was very happy! As for priming it, NH575 suggested that he put air in the tank. I did not have a rubber plug that was that big (was surprised at the size of the opening), so I used a rag...nice mess I made. Anyhow, this didn't seem to fill the small pre-filter, so I turned on the key (electric fuel pump). This didnt seem to do anything to fill the little filter, so I started the engine. The filter seemed to fill, and the engine didnt miss a beat. So, I am not really sure at this point how I got the air out, but it worked. I also changed the bottom step on the drivers side (they are all the same step, bottom, top on both sides). It was pretty mangled, and broken tractor had it for less than $100 plus shipping. I did have to paint it, but I had already bought a quart of paint from the dealer. On to the front hubs. I drained them, and the oil looked like it had fine particles of metal, but the magnet on the plug only had a little dust on it. The other hub was exactly the same. I have never serviced planetary hubs on a backhoe before (all the ones I worked on were 2wd), but I think this may be normal. I did not find any pieces of metal at all. Next I dumped the front axle. It had some of the same shimmer in the oil as the hubs. Again, the magnet on the plug only had a little dust on it. I feel we are all good in the front axle. On to the rear axle. Wow, there is a lot of oil in there! I did check the level prior to dumping the oil, because I saw somewhere on here that occasionally the brake pistons leak into the housings, and I did have to add a bit of brake oil. anyhow, the level was fine, prior to dumping it. The oil was the normal blackened ford wet brake oil. What a pain in the prat to refill all that oil. I used a small hand pump that I bought at advance auto. I am still sore from pumping all that oil in . So that is done as well The only fluid that is left to address is the coolant. I have had several leaks in the system (you can see drips of coolant on the bell housing when under the tractor). I think, (fingers crossed) that I have fixed those. There are 2 tees for the coolant in back of the engine. I tightened all three connections on both tees. Additionally, there was a coolant hose that went into the back of the engine on the passenger side. This connection was loose as well. After tightening the connections, I have not seen coolant on the bell housing anymore. I dont want to call it fixed yet because I have not run the engine to get it to temperature since tightening. Once I confirm that there arent any leaks, I will replace the coolant I also have the cab air filter left to change, but haven't gotten there yet...the weather here has been wet, wet, wet, and raining now and tomorrow too. Hopes this stops, I want to build a garage this summer and right now I cannot do any site prep work as it is all mud!
Thanks for the updates. Sounds like you are going for having everything perfect. My tractor has the single battery and I threaten every winter to make brackets to add the second. It starts sluggish on the best day and in cold weather I just leave the grill out so I can jump it off my truck. I have sorted all the cables and replaced the starter and alternator so it just seems it needs more cranking amps than you can get from one battery. I also need to change oil in my front axle and hubs. That is the only oil I haven't changed. I just rebuilt my steering cylinder. WHAT A PAIN! It was bypassing in the middle from the day I got it. The steering was weak and the wheel could be turned indefinitely with no stop. It finally started to leak externally so I had to rebuild it. At one point I thought I might have to buy a new one because I couldn't get one ball socket loose. I finally ordered a 2-7/16 shaft collar from McMaster Carr. I used a round wheel on a 1/4" grinder to open it up to fit the center piston on the steering shaft. With an arrangement of three pipe wrenches I finally got the second ball socket loose so I could replace the seals. I was surprised to find I could buy a brand new generic steering cylinder on eBay for $500 but I avoided that cost.
Sounds great Swetz.... ,,and your right about "mud season" in PA. Though this had been an early start to the digging season, it remains spotty for conditions. It will improve as we go thru April, but will remain hit and miss. Not sure bout your area in Wayne Co. but a bit south of you we had several bad years for Gypsy moths with lots of tree death round me...... lots of standing firewood for the foreseeable future. But, thankfully, the last 2 seasons were wet springs which allows the fungal pathogens to thrive and are lethal to the caterpillars. So... I like to see that "wet"spring even though my digging project takes a back seat.
I dont know how I forgot to mention it, but I also was successful at changing the cutting edge on the loader. I brought up a 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel in it. It ate through the 7 bolts in less than 20 min. and the wheel is still like brand new. For guys that dont have the fancy tools, you can get the old edge off easily. I have the tools, just not here, but it was quick and easy. One other thing that I didnt mention is that I have not yet worked on the bucket leveling system. I have been spraying it up with wd40 as often as possible, but rain after rain prolly is taking that away. Hopefully next week the rain will let me get back to it. NH575E, In looking at the NH site it looks like your 1 battery is on the bottom. It would not be that hard for you to add the second. If you need any measurements or pics, let me kno. I went online to advance auto parts and purchased 2 31T batteries. They are $130 a piece. The thing I like about advance is that you can go online and get a 25% off coupon and apply it to your online order, then go to the store and they are already pulled and ready to go, and at $97.50, they are cheaper than many that are out there. You will also need a standoff for the positive side as you can see in my attached pic. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...attery-group-size-31t-950-cca-31s30/2100096-P T-town, I purchased the property almost 4 years ago now. I remember 2018, I was moving some dirt near my house and it was so dry that my wife was spraying water from the hose to keep the dust down...then the weather changed and it rained all summer. I never did get the work done that year. Last year it was wet but not like that. The first year I owned it dried up in the summer and was nice. I am hoping to get that summer this year, but so far, no avail there, and the forecast isn't good for the next 10 days.