I have my JD 310c in the shop for front end repair. While waiting I was wondering if there is an economical way to air conditin my 310c. It does have a tight cab . Buying and installing the parts from J. D. is probably cost prohibitive??? Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks, David d.
Buying all the parts from Deere would be spendy. An alternative would be an aftermarket kit from someone like Red Dot. Even then, it's going to cost a few bucks simply because there's a number of components involved.
I googled and found some models that work with ice. Swamp cooler are inefective in the hot humid south. Anyone tried the ice models?? DD
Try a company called DTAC out of Texas, they build a very nice roof top unit. Very fiendly and easy to deal with.
Red Dot offers very cost effective componets to install on machinery...
South texas truck air......in Houston........
I must admit, I have never added a/c to a backhoe. I have added many to dump trucks, excavators, front end loader. These are easy to install machines, more or less easy to get to everything, to install the parts. I had about $1500 in a complete system ( I used Red Dot and DTAC) to me about the same. If I had to put a labor price in there, I would say around $800-$1000 (labor, hose fittings and freon) So it can be a bit pricey. My guess, it would be a hard job to install on a backhoe, and protect everything Try to find a unit like yours, to look at. Im wondering if your existing engine fan, is the correct size and rotation, if you add a condensor, in front of the radiator. I guess the complete roof top unit would be the best and easiest. If you have a salvage yard around your area, they may have a machine like yours, that has a/c, that you can buy the a/c stuff and its easier to install factory items, than make stuff work. I said easier, not impossible Be sure, if you use a roof top, to build a brush guard around it, or you will be buying another unit, when it hits a tree limb Good Luck and keep us posted
What I have in mind is to build one myself. The principal is to have a cooler of ice water. Starting with mostly ice. Use a small pump such as a marine bilge pump. 12v submersible . Pump the icey water up to a stand alone heater core with fan. Actually fasten the "heater-fan" on top of the ice chest. Calculations says a charge of ice will last 2 to 4 hours. The remaining question is will it cool enough to make a difference. There is a commercial made unit that does the same thing. NOT to be confused with a swamp cooler. Just wondering if someone had tried such a rig. Thanks DD
Thats a good idea David.....But i have seen at the Expo's in the past some very interesting set ups...the only problem with today's machines are the electronics....the old school mamachines did not have all the elec. over hyd....the condensation that is produced would be damaging.....did i make any sence?
Red Dot or DTAC
In my 25 plus years exp....Red Dot all the way......
The only thing coming out of the unit would be cool air. The "heater" coil will wring moisture from the air just as a conventional cooling coil does. The "heater" will have to be modified to deal with this condensate water. Just drain it into the ice resivoir. It will not be blowing air over ice, which would tend to cause condensate and moisture buildup in the unit. The ice resivoir will become water after a while. Rather than removing the unit to dump, I will run a drain thru the floor and dump on the ground. Then bring in another bag of ice. I know this would not suit for a $25 an hour operator to be fooling with, but I have time on my hands. The heater in my 310 works fine and will not be part of this rube goldburg arrangment. I will be going to the hosp. in the morning for some minor surgery. I should be back to catch up on this thread by weeks end. David d.
Dump truck A/C problems OK Guys, hear is a good item to discuss I have a 1998 International 4900, DT530 engine. I am having a bad problem, getting the A/C problem fixed. I have had it to 3 shops, spent around $800 and it still does the same thing. Its kicking in and out, sometimes it works OK, but then it starts acting up again. It usually does it when its real hot. It has a air operated clutch fan, when the compressor kicks off, you can hear the fan clutch kick out. It happens so fast, I really cant tell what happens first (the clutch fan, or the compressor)The A/C has not operated well, since I have owned the truck I have installed a new drier The presures is around 23 low and 240 high It seems like when I add freon to bring the low side up, it just brings the high side up. I know the high side is high, but you have to get the low side down around 18, to get the high side to around 160 I have cleaned out (very good) the condesnsor, evaporator, heater core, radiator. I am real sure it isnt a clogged up/dirt problem. It only has one pressure switch, its located inside the cab, on a line going to the evaporator. When I bought the truck a few months ago, it was unplugged. I dont remember seeing a jumper wire, but I did plug it back in. There is another pressure switch, it located in the engine area, on the firewall, where the A/C lines are going through the firewall. It does not have any wires hooked to the plug, that is hooked to the pressure switch. It looks like a dummy plug. The mechanics that have worked on this, are good mechanics, but they dont seem to be able to put their finger on the solution, the troubleshooting is costing me a bunch of money. If anyone has any ideas, let me know, remember, I have done all the simple things (I think) Thanks
Willis....acts to me like you have air in the system....high side to high and low side to low....kickin' out on low pressure switch do to low charge(because of air)....or if it has a TXV it's not meterin' right.....thats my take on it......HVAC tech for 27 years...
Are you using 134A? Did you flush the system.Especially if the compressor goes bad. On my older dozer it has and expansion valve,and i always changed it out when i put on a new drier.Plus there should be a little coned screen in the line coming from compressor to expansion valve. Normally if the expansion valve is plugged you will get a high reading on the low side.Also can tell one side of the intake line will get frosty ,because it won't let the freon through the valve.Been awhile since i have had to mess with it.Other things to check if you have sight glass look to see if you have bubble in the system or clear.If bubble You still might need more freon.Until it clears up. Just need to make sure you don't get to much.Did you add any oil to the system when you replaced the drier and did you vac(suck) the sytem down to get the air out and see if you had any leak.With the vac off the low side gauage reading should at least be 10 or below and stay put if no leaks. Sure there is a few other things,i have forgot. Not sure got everything quite right.But should be close .Good luck!:usa
A/c Well i'm not sure about the trucks a/c.....On most of the Komatsu's and Dressers, and bomags that i have serviced in the past years... The low side was about 30-40 PSI anthe high side waset at 220-275 psi....depending on the outside temp....Now thats down here in Good ole Texas.......:usa
You could always try the air-cooler that they sell for small airplanes. Buy it, plug it in to a cigarette lighter (or rig one) put ice in it and it will blow ice-cold air on you all day. Only problem is a place to set it where it is out of the way.
310c air conditioning I have a '90 310c and have successfully added an after market air conditioning unit into my enclosed cab. This process isn't easy, and the JD version is very, very pricey and requires you to loose one of the windows on the right side. I worked with an OEM outfit to mount an after market r134a compressor on the top right of the engine (above the alternator). This required the manufacture of a custom compressor mount (with lots of fun with my welding) and a new set of belts. The condenser fits in front of the existing radiator panels (again with with slight modifications). The evaporator unit mounts on the roof by the windows blowing directly at ME. Keeps me cool in the 100 degree endless California sunshine, though I also added tinted windows to block reflected heat. I've had the unit installed for 5 years now and it still runs great. Total cost was around $500 (plus $12,000 for my time at $100/hr.). So now I have central heating and central AC. Nice enough to move into I guess.
Other AC choices By the way, another option I had considered in adding AC to my 310C was to get a roof mounted RV AC unit. Unfortunately, while these units are small and self contained, they require a LOT of power. The power consumption would overwhelm the alternator and kill the batteries after a few hours.
Used A/C condenser, HUMMMMMMMMMMMMM I just ran into another bad condensor, in my dump truck. It seems like everytime I have a leak in the condensor, its always on Friday and the local parts store doesnt stock spares, So here I go to the junk yard and of course when I got it back to the shop and went to take the hose fitting off the condenser, one of them didnt want to come off, I tried heat and it helped some, when it finally came off the end was messed up. These are aluminum condensers and it doesnt take much to mess the fittings up. I was able to take a new hose fitting and get the threads fixed on this one, but I have two on the shelf that I could fix. The reason for this post, is, does anyone make a thread chaser, for these units #6 & #8 (I think) I have ordered a spare universal condenser, for next time
Another thread about this general idea.
http://www.hammondac.com/home/machine just came across this link. I don't know anything about this system other than what their webpage says but will be calling for more info.