I cannot get to the 10mm fuel bleed screw because of compressor being in the way. Machine is running like **** after I changed fuel filter. Have air in system. Any suggestions ??
Check your filter again for air leaks. I've never seen a bleed screw that was needed to bleed air when the engine was RUNNING, they're for filling up the pumps so they'll pump before you burn out your starter trying to get a pump that is made to pump diesel to suck air. If it's running and doesn't clear up in a minute or two, then something else is wrong.
So here's the recent history Machine was running good One evening machine was going up my sloped driveway and died repeatedly from low fuel. Managed to make it up just barely Fueled up Then replaced fuel filter. Couldn't get to bleeder screw and machine wouldn't run. Tried to crack the first injector line fitting loose to bleed but it twisted with the actual fitting bolted to the the ink pump. I am not sure if I damaged it but it now feels loose to touch (if pushing on it with medium force) but is not leaking at all. Not sure if I still have air or what
I guess I'd loosen the line from the fitting on the injection pump that's loose and then tighten the fitting into the injection pump, then tighten the line to the fitting, with a wrench on the fitting this time. Next time, loosen the line at the injector to bleed the air if needed. My other advice stands. Maybe run that fuel return into a jar to see if there's bubbles in it continuously.
Yes, you HAVE TO tighten that fitting 1st.. its called a delivery valve holder.. A loose holder will make a 4 cyl sound like its running on 3. with no leaks. It torques to 30-35 ft lbs. Doesn't that machine have a lift pump between the fuel tank and the inj. pump?? The lift pump should have carried the air out, if it was already running.. I'll bet the rough running can be blamed on the Loose DV Holder.. RE torque them ALL..
It's tight but when you press against the fitting it deflects a little. It looks like a little two bolt flange with a nipple.... Could I have broken it?
The nipple is what needs to be tightened.. 17 or 19 mm socket. DO NOT touch the 2 bolt flange.. There shouldn't be any deflection and yes its possible to break a DV Holder. but its not an every day accourance..
where can i get a replacement DV HOLDER for a 404D-22 T engine... its the right-most injector
The pump is made by Zexel, formally Diesel Kiki out of Japan.. You see where its stamped "stop" in the housing.. On the BACK SIDE of the housing there are 2 sets of #'s stamped in the hsg.. 1 is the serial # and the other is a partial pump #.. Get those #'s and call your local fuel shop..OR email me.. IF you JUST NEED the DV HOLDER, you can do that yourself.. I can give you that P#.. IF you NEED THE FLANGE.. I don't recommend doing that.. WAY TO MUCH that can go terribly wrong..
That pump looks a lot like the one on my ASV RC30. you might want to down load the manual for the motor, just have to google around, a little. Its a perkins/cat motor, the perkins manual is what I found, mine was a 403d-15, so yours will prolly have a number something like 404d-?? Cat number for my motor is a 3013. Good news is, a rebuilder would prolly charge you $100/hole, if you need the pump rebuilt. Be careful when removing, to not bend up the shim/gasket, under the top plate, that sets the timing, on this cartridge style pump. Also, the throttle rack is connected to the pin, on the pump, by a tiny cotter key, that you have to feel for, as you lift the pump out. I think it was about a half hour job, each way, to R&R. Here is the PDF manual, found it real easy, and free is always good... http://www.foleyengines.com/sites/default/files/Perkins.400D.Manual.Complete.Reduced_0.pdf